I have a 20 year old Jenn-air fridge that has served well. Until a couple of weeks ago that is- the ice maker has stopped working. It stopped abruptly without any signs of anything being amiss. About a year ago, the filler tube developed a frozen clog and needed some hair dryer work to get up and running.

This time the hair dryer trick changed nothing. Other pertinent information includes the water function still works fine. The maker seems to cycle randomly but no ice is being made. Should I do a complete defrost? Or is there some trick I can try? All suggestions are appreciated. And for those wondering why I somehow have ice, I had to get a couple of tray cube makers to get by.

Here’s a pic of the unit itself if it helps figure this out. Thanks in advance.

quote:

Originally posted by gearhounds:
I have a 20 year old Jenn-air fridge that has served well.

20 years is a good run.
Unless you can get a replacement part off EBay, it’s probably toast. My replacement part was supposed to be “an exact fit” that is until I looked at the wiring and saw the connection was flipped in the replacement pert.
Strip, solder, tape, replace —> it worked for 3(?) weeks.

It's just the ice maker part, correct? The rest of the refrigerator works, correct? If it can't be fixed at reasonable effort and cost, get some dollar store ice cube trays and call it a day. No new refrigerator is going to last 20 years.

Google the icemaker model. Some have a reset button.

Really doubt thats it though. 20 years is a long run around here for an ice maker.

Also it should have a twin type solenoid for water dispensing. One side for door water and the other to fill the ice make. One can stop while the other side is still working. Is the ice maker filling with water?

My water has so much calcium that it screws up the solenoid water valves and the ice makers quite regularly. 5-6 years on them is a long run.

I just end up replacing them both when the ice maker craps out. The reason i even know about the rest button was on my last replacement it would not cycle until I searched and searched and found the rest button and once I got it reset it cycled through and started working.
Most of the older one would corrode up from the calcium and screw up the surface the oring sealed on and would cause dripping that would freeze everything up in a solid block of ice.

The last replacement unit was making the cubes to big. Some units have an adjustment on the maker for the cube size which mine did not. I ended up putting the old water solenoid valve back on which helped some but still get cubes hanging up in the door chute from time to time which is a pain.

Thanks all for the replies. The fridge itself works fine and I am loathe to give up on it and buy something that is engineered to fail probably before this one actually gives up the ghost.

I’ll do some more research and look for a reset button- that actually makes sense given the sudden suspension of ice production. No water is making it into the grooves. Bone dry, and the parts all still move as if it were doing the job of making and ejecting ice.

I’ve already decided to keep making ice by hand if the unit cannot be repaired or replaced with an OEM maker. If need be, I’ll have an appliance repair shop fix it if it is indeed fixable but I have plenty of time to make ice myself. The fact that it still provides water just fine is encouraging.

quote:

Originally posted by gearhounds:
No water is making it into the grooves.

That would seem to be the smoking gun. Track water availability - maybe a clog somewhere, maybe a filter badly in need of replacement. Hopefully it's something easy to trace and replace.

You checked for frozen water pipe. Good.
Have you checked the solenoid? This is the electronically controlled valve that lets water from the source into the fill tube. If you are "handy", check to see if the solenoid is getting power. If it is and no water the solenoid is bad and can be replaced for ~$25.

I had a Jenn-air. Try the hair dryer on the entire tray portion. I have had it freeze up in there, which makes the ice maker think there are still cubes in cue (if that makes sense). If it turns out to be the solenoid, I have a NIB OEM solenoid. If it is the same part number, you can have it if it is the same as yours.


Part number 9 W10341320 PS11753250

Email me if it will work for you.

AI Overview: To fix a non-working ice maker on a 20-year-old Jenn-Air refrigerator, start by checking the basic water supply, freezer temperature, and wire shut-off arm before testing or replacing the older modular ice maker assembly.

Common Causes and Troubleshooting Steps

Freezer Temperature: Ensure the freezer is set between 0°F and 5°F. If the temperature rises above 10°F to 15°F, the older mechanical thermostat inside the ice maker will not cycle.

Shut-Off Arm / Bail Arm: Check that the metal wire shut-off arm is not stuck in the raised (off) position.

Frozen Fill Tube: Look at the water fill tube entering the top of the ice maker mold. If it is blocked by a solid chunk of ice, thaw it out carefully using a hair dryer on a low setting. A frozen tube often points to a slow drip or a leaking water inlet valve.

Water Supply and Filter: Verify your home supply line isn't kinked behind the fridge, and check if your model has an inline water filter that is clogged and needs replacing.

Water Inlet Valve: Listen for a humming sound when the ice maker should be filling. If no water flows despite adequate pressure (at least 20 psi), the electric solenoid valve at the bottom rear may have failed or lost continuity.

Watch this video to understand the top five reasons a refrigerator ice maker stops working and how to test them:

Ok on moduler icemaker. You can jumper from T to H on the front (remove the cover)to cycle it. Short piece of insulated wire with half inch stripped on both ends and ent into a U. Pull the wire when the reference mark on the gear gets to 12 o'clock. Bar goes up and down whand right after it drops is when the valve is energized.

Before you try that, disconnect the 1/4 linear the valve that leads up to the icemaker on the back. If you can blow through it, the line isn’t frozen. Reconnect it before cycling it. If you have line voltage at the point it powers the valve, bad valve. If not.bad mold heater or model, so replace the icemaker

If the "solution" involves buying old-style ice trays, accept no other than Rubbermaids. Unlike all metal trays, and many plastic ones, these never fight you to eject the cubes.

Thank you Tony- I’ll check it and see if it’s compatible. Very generous of you.

Since the ice maker is empty and bone dry,and I don’t have a detectable plug, I suppose I should start with a defrost… I could probably use the opportunity to do a deep clean anyway. I’ll update the saga haha