Rock Auto for Wix filters for me. Buy them by the case.
Walmart Mobil 1, mid to upper $20's for 5 Qts., depending on the spec's. Keep a drain plug seal in stock too. Some need it each time, most don't but you never know when until the oil's out. Keep some brake clean around to spray things down.
Changing your oil & filter with quality stuff is the cheapest thing you can do to make your car last longer.
Easy on most cars too.

I pay to have mine changed - but it is a local shop that has been around for 30 years that I trust. (minimal turnover and always busy)

I change 2 out of the 3 cars myself - twice a year full synthetic Mobil 1 but plan to switch it up with Kirkland oil this spring.

Good to hear, Dave. I also do my own oil changes with Mobil 1 and Honda filter. It gives me a good feeling.

Did you get the ball joint problem fixed?

Hello 6guns. The wheel bearing got replaced when I first bought the Sienna. Left front still makes a creeking sound but only when its damp outside. Soon as things dry up it is fine. Havn't quite figured that one out yet.

quote:

Originally posted by stuffgeek:
I change 2 out of the 3 cars myself - twice a year full synthetic Mobil 1 but plan to switch it up with Kirkland oil this spring.

Factory Toyota oil from JA Pan is Idemitsu. Can only find their ATF at Auto Zone. The engine oil can only be found on Amazon but is $16.00 per quart..Ouch.

quote:

Originally posted by 6guns:
Good to hear, Dave. I also do my own oil changes with Mobil 1 and Honda filter. It gives me a good feeling.

Did you get the ball joint problem fixed?

I would expect you change your own being as you work on ship engines...

I change the oil on my 3 vehicles, as well as the GF's Acadia. Mostly use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic, and Wix filters. I use a K&N filter on the Ram truck since the nut on the end makes a shitty job a little easier.

quote:

Originally posted by aileron:
I change the oil on my 3 vehicles, as well as the GF's Acadia. Mostly use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic, and Wix filters. I use a K&N filter on the Ram truck since the nut on the end makes a shitty job a little easier.

That nut is a handy feature. Toyota has a filter element. Some sort of paper. Fits into a canister. The filters come with 2 O rings for replacement. First oil change cost a bit more as I needed to buy a cup wrench to remove the canister. I like the way Toyota builds things. Will be changing my feelings about that if I ever replace its spark plugs. That one is in depth and labor rich on these vans. WTH were they thinking?

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

Left front still makes a creeking sound but only when its damp outside. Soon as things dry up it is fine. Havn't quite figured that one out yet.

Steroids will help. My knee does the same thing (creaking sound in damp weather).

I keep one of these around just in case I need it to remove a filter that’s on too tight. Hasn’t failed me yet: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-6...+%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-3

Well, I have been taking my WRX to the Subaru dealership for the oil change, since I can't beat the price of $54.00. But after the last oil change and the Warranty work before that, I'm looking at doing my own oil changes though they will probably cost me more, and I'm looking to take it for any warranty work to another dealership.

The last oil change, an order writer comes to me and tells me that over half the hardware that holds my under pan on is missing. I told him that's funny because you all are the only people that works on the car. We go round and around about it and I end up paying for new hardware. Still pissed off about that.

Then shortly after I found out that Subaru USA OEM oil filter is Fram/Honeywell made. Not Tokyo Roki like the JDM filter. So we get junky Fram filters.

I'll pay extra and get a quality oil filter, thank you very much.

The last time in for warranty work, the dealership broke my car, kept it for 13 days, couldn't figure out what they did and told me to pick up my car. It took me two and a half hours to figure out and fix their fuckup. Still very pissed about that!

Third rate mechanics getting first rate pay....how ridiculous! So, yeah I'll be doing my own oil changes from now on.


ARman

Need the Mobile1 Glucosamine V-Tail..

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:

Actually it is a big deal. Some engines need a higher MOFT (minimum oil film thickness) than other engines to prevent wear. Dealerships typically put in whatever is on the oil cap and then some just don’t give a shit (like your dealer), or they were out of what is spec’d and they used whatever they had.

Either way you were right to have them change it to the correct oil.[/QUOTE]

What lit me up that day is the service writer figured that I was just some old man that thinks he's cool by driving a slightly modded Wrangler. When he started giving me some flack at that point I told him that I've been a hot rodder and biker, both street and off road racing since the mid 60's. And retired after 47 years in GM dealership fixed operations and currently (well until the SHTF) working in motorcycle dealers part time since '99 so I think I know what I'm talking about. And to show me the TSB stating that 5W-20 was the current recommendation for motor oil in my Wrangler. That ended that real quick. Next trip in that service advisor had been replaced, a guy I worked with in a GM dealer was there. When I pointed it out to him he took my keys and had the tech redo the oil change. Unfortunately he has moved on, I found out two weeks later when I took the Liberty in for that oil change in December.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

Wow. Dont let them touch your vehicles again.[/QUOTE]

A chance of less that zero of that happening!

How I wish that I had received a survey from FCA!

ARman, thats the 2nd post here about dealerships sticking it to Customers. They've done this forever as your money is theirs. Been through that myself. Dont take your nice WRX back to them. Used to flip out my credit card for tire rotation and LOF on my new Blazer at a Chevy dealer. $150.00 charge every time.

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:
I keep one of these around just in case I need it to remove a filter that’s on too tight. Hasn’t failed me yet: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-6...+%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-3

Clever looking wrench. I have a Autocraft 64mm. Its 1/2" drive.

Large channel lock pliers work well for stuck filters too.

quote:

Originally posted by Nismo:
Large channel lock pliers work well for stuck filters too.

Yes and in my younger years I've drivin a screw driver through them. Thats crude and messy but it works. The canister on the 3.5 litre is either cast or forged aluminum and some surfaces machined. I wouldn't want to tear it up with Channel locks. Its not designed like a stamped and formed oil filter. There is no need to cause damage taking it off.

I do my oil changes because I know exactly what oil and filters I am putting in/on. I don't mind doing them most of the time, but sometimes in the winter it can be a pain. Normally I have been able to get oil changes in late October or early November and am good until March usually. I have an antique truck in my garage that hasn't run in 3 years. There are times I want to just give it away {1953 Dodge M-37, in avatar)but it is still worth a lot as is.