So this past Saturday we had yet another (seems to be the new normal unfortunately) torrential downpour for hours and ended up getting something like 4 inches of rain in less than half a day.

I've been having water issues with my basement and walked out in the middle of this monsoon rain to see this low spot near my Bilco doors and I finally realized what my issue really is; my ancient 1951 gutters and tiny diameter downspouts on the one side of the house just cannot keep up and a gushing waterfall is running off my roof right into this low spot against my foundation instead of being directed down the drain to the street that is right there.

I think if I can get modern, much larger capacity gutters and downspouts, this will solve a lot of my issues right off the bat and doing some grading there might eliminate most of it.

I've never had to deal with replacing these so I have no idea what to expect or how much this will run.

We put new larger gutters on the E/W ends of the house, wasn't hugely expensive but that was pre covid.

Shop around there are quite a few companies with varied prices, you want seamless of course...

I recently had a 40' run of 6" seamless gutter with 1 downspout installed for $300.

About 4 years ago they put new gutters and downspouts on my house right before I bought it. I have the quote. Keep in mind this was a contractor working for a house-flipper so it's about as cheap as it would ever get. This was also 2019 numbers.

Roughly 140' of 5" gutter and probably about 100' of 3x4 downspouts. Labor and materials was $1525.

I think retail, 5" gutters are somewhere close to $1.50/linear foot. And 3x4 downspouts are in the $1.75 range.

I would guess $10 per foot of gutter, total.

It’s going to cost a few grand. Your downspouts need to be plumbed into PVC and run to the street/alley. That means digging up the yard. Gutters aren’t expensive, neither are downspouts, but do it right, yeah a few grand.

We are on clay here so shitty gutters will just cost you exponentially more with foundation repair. Most of my neighbors have gutters and they have their downspouts pointed at the house next to them, including mine. So the water, during flood rain, just pools up literally like a pool between the houses. I’ve told my neighbors they are going to have foundation problems, and they don’t listen. I spent a little over 10k fixing my foundation with steel piers, to fix it permanently, and correctly. House next to mine did concrete pilings. 4-5 years after they did it (told them to use steel piers but they didn’t listen) they have new cracks in their walls, etc. Both of my immediate neighbors have their downspouts pointed at my property while my roof water is all plumbed in. I even have some drains in the backyard plumbed into the line to get all that water out of here. I have PVC to the street and several PVC lines to the alley. It can flood and that water is out of here. Neighbor behind me doesn’t even have gutters. We have had flood rain several times over the last week. I was outside the other day under the carport and the rain water was just carving a hard line right next to his house. I can only imagine what foundation repair costs these days. Not if, but when, it’ll cost him twenty grand. Twenty grand versus maybe 3k for gutters, downspouts, and PVC. Yep, rocket science there.

Angies List should give some reasonable reviews to find a solid contractor in your area. If you are going to fix it, do it right.

$4,000.00
$5,200.00 with the under coating.

I need to run 2 & plan to DIY. Already have the French drain parts done, just need to run 2 gutters & 2 downspouts.

Hate the mesh gutter covers we have, but will let those ride for now. They're really bad at trapping pine needles instead of letting it wash over.

Get the largest size that will fit your fascia board. Each inch extra will hold a lot more water. Larger adds very little to the price.

Be sure to get the water away from the foundation with good piping. Does wonders for basement moisture problems.

quote:

Originally posted by Prefontaine:
It’s going to cost a few grand. Your downspouts need to be plumbed into PVC and run to the street/alley.

I already have buried downspout drains all around the house.

And I went back and looked at the video I shot on Saturday and it looks like the one gutter that is the issue is leaking really badly so I think that is more the issue but I think I also need larger capacity downspouts.

quote:

Originally posted by bendable:
$4,000.00
$5,200.00 with the under coating.

They're running a special on the undercoating right now.

If you get bigger gutters make sure you are fastening through fascia and into rafter tails and that said tails are not rotten. You need to do that anyways but a bigger gutter holds more water which can weigh a lot more, especially if a downspout gets clogged. Clogged gutters will pull your fascia off.

When I had my roof done last spring gutters were on sale for 2.50 per lineal foot and this was WITH gutter guards. So I bit on that big time, the crap plastic gutters installed by the previous owner were a giant PITA.

currently waiting on insurance claim gutter replacement.

Quote #1:6" aluminum, white gutter is quoted as 60 ft, with two 10ft spouts and one 6ft spout at $810, leaf guard 60ft is $540

Quote #2: shows per ft gutter @$8.50/ft , downspouts $8.50/ft, leaf guard (not as good as quote #1) at $8.50/ ft, plus minor charges for tear off and re-use some old spouts.

Both quotes are installed.

Aluminum prices rising as much as the demand will bear.

quote:

Originally posted by BigWhup:
currently waiting on insurance claim gutter replacement.

Quote #1:6" aluminum, white gutter is quoted as 60 ft, with two 10ft spouts and one 6ft spout at $810, leaf guard 60ft is $540

Quote #2: shows per ft gutter @$8.50/ft , downspouts $8.50/ft, leaf guard (not as good as quote #1) at $8.50/ ft, plus minor charges for tear off and re-use some old spouts.

Both quotes are installed.

Aluminum prices rising as much as the demand will bear.

Have you already filed that with insurance? If not, I would highly recommend paying out of pocket if it’s that price. Unless you’re doing the whole roof or something. Forgive me if I’m missing something.

quote:

Originally posted by chongosuerte:


Have you already filed that with insurance? If not, I would highly recommend paying out of pocket if it’s that price. Unless you’re doing the whole roof or something. Forgive me if I’m missing something.

This is a minor piece of the $30,000 plus roof replacement.

quote:

Originally posted by BigWhup:

quote:

Originally posted by chongosuerte:


Have you already filed that with insurance? If not, I would highly recommend paying out of pocket if it’s that price. Unless you’re doing the whole roof or something. Forgive me if I’m missing something.

This is a minor piece of the $30,000 plus roof replacement.

Ahhhhh…makes sense. I figured that was the big picture.

This site has good info. gutters

I need gutters too. I am going to use 6" k style but I want round downspouts and leader pipes.

Some basic limitations to keep in mind are gutter size, downspout dimensions and downspout locations.

A 6" (width) gutter has much greater capacity than a 5" (width) gutter.

A 4"X5" downspout will drain water far more efficiently than a 3"X4" downspout.

General rule of thumb is to place a downspout every 25 feet of running gutter.

The volume of rain may exceed the capacity of the gutters to capture, contain, and drain the water, especially if the installation consists of minimum dimensions or draining ability.

Also, if this is being done as part of an insurance claim it is important to understand the terms and conditions of the claim. Typically the adjustor will calculate the work based on local market prices (materials, labor, permits, sales taxes, disposal of waste, etc). The policy deductible is applied, then depreciation is applied and an initial payment of ACV (actual cash value, the total less depreciation and deductible), then the balance upon completion of the work (RCV, replacement cost value subject to contractor's billing).

The effects are:

1. Insurance companies will pay only for what was actually damaged, not for any upgrades or improvements;

2. If the contractor charges more than the claim adjustment the insured must pay the difference; if the bill is less the claim is reduced to the final billing amount. It is generally impossible these days to save part or all of your deductible, so if you shop for a deal you are only saving your insurance company some money (not yourself).

3. Some f0lks may pocket the insurance money and leave some or all work undone. Insurance companies share claims data all the time, and they will know what was paid for before (by them or another company), so any future claims will likely be denied. The damaged portions essentially become uninsurable.

These are general rules, not absolute or comprehensive for every insurer or claim location. Know your policy and understand your claim.