quote:

Originally posted by Kraquin:
Pays to shop around for windows.

Also, take a few random pictures during the install. You never know what might happen.

Had a "reputable" regional company replace 12 windows about 8 years ago. Since the house was built in the 50's they were required to test for lead in the underlying paint...... $60 per window. Tests came back positive which would require the installers to wear PPE, bag and wrap the old trim and frames, and put up a floor to ceiling barrier. Fortunately my wife had taken some pictures which showed none of that happened. We got our $720 back.

Sadly with location there is not much shopping around. My current quote and Lowe’s are the only folks I can find that will send folks out.
Which is the main reason I am asking here so I am not going in fully blind.

The sales guy says they tack on a $150 lead disposal fee to every job they do no matter what.

The house was built in 1927 and 4 of the windows are likely from the 40s with who knows how many coats of paint sealing them shut and they are falling apart literally. The other 5 were likely put in in the 70s and are metal. They function enough but really need replaced just not as a bad as the other 4. These are simple slider varying in size from 24x12 to 59x36.
I have 9 windows that I want replaced and 4 that really need to be done. So I asked for a quote on the minimum 4 and a total for all 9.
So I asked about added service fees per visit if I broke it up into 2 jobs. He said just the $150 lead disposal fee per job.
They want $4300 for all 9 windows. I have asked for the written estimate outline everything and window materials and construction.
So I can better asses the quote.

That is an excellent price if they are quality windows.

I paid $250 a window on Matthews Brothers windows, if they are including the trim and casing for $175 you are getting a very good deAL.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Some sort of glass coating (that is escaping me at the moment).

My guess is low E glass. You need this on all windows that don't face North.

It sounds in line.
Just know that there is a difference in quality of windows and the quality of installation makes a difference too.
Do a little homework on the materials and the installer.

A couple of things to check for...

- the double pane windows should have argon gas between the panes
- the windows should be ENERGY STAR rated

These two things should help ensure you’re getting decent quality windows.

Sorry I took all day to get back to you, it's been a hectic day! Alot of what I was going to mention has by now been discussed in your thread - low-e coating, argon gas fill in between the panes, lead job safety, etc.

I'm really surprised that WW can offer a full frame replacement at $425 ea - that's removing the entire old window frame, so you're starting with the stud frame rough opening. If they're doing that, please make sure they're either using a nailing fin style window, with the fin taped to the sheathing/boards on the top/sides, OR at very least, installing a drip cap over the top that won't allow water to eventually work it's way past a caulk/foam joint, if that's all they're relying on for keeping water out. It's a known short cut in the industry to make full frame installs easier for the company, but not better for the customer. I always prefer a nail fin installation, whenever possible. You get much better guarantee against water infiltration (when the fin is back-caulked/taped), and a more rigid window frame.

Even if they're an insert, the price is fair, just make sure they're not going to start killing you with lots of extras that should be included, but weren't in their price. Specifically, finishing the outside with aluminum capping/wraps; either over the old frames/brickmold (if inserts), or over new filler wood (if full frames).

In any event, the price is very fair, and even a less than premium vinyl window can be perfectly AOK, as long as it's installed correctly - installed plumb/level/square, sufficiently shimmed in all the right places, screwed thru the frame in multiple places into the framing or old frame if an insert, etc. Generally, most window performance issues are installation related, except for seal failure. Just make sure you jump thru wherever hoops WW may require for warranty registration, and hopefully you're good!

I could go into a lot more detail if you want to geek out on particulars, as I have ample time to talk on the phone during my commute home. If that's the case, give me a call in the afternoons, around 4:45 CST. - phone number sent via email.

Chris

Thanks for all the added installation info. I am still awaiting my written estimate and I will follow up with them to get more detailed installation info from them.