Guys - The pictures below (same item just two different exposures to try and show more detail) is a threaded rod with a threaded and locktite brass tip that I use on my Dillon powder measure units. I need to ask if it is possible to have someone with a lathe (guessing this is the right machine) could turn down the black rod and threaded area from its current size which is - 0.165” on the non-threaded area and 0.175” on the threaded area down to a size for the entire black rod area (it is ok to stop with the cut down just before getting to the brass material) to a finished size of 0.150” +/- 0.003”.....The total rod length is about 6”....

If what I am wanting to do to this rod is possible is there anyone here who would accept this challenge (I will be happy to pay you if you are able to do this).....Please let me know if what I am wanting to do is impossible since this rod has this larger diameter piece of brass on it that I want to remain attached and at its current size.....Thanks Mark

Just out of curiosity, why do you want this done?

Because of the flex that would occur while turning (even with a center support), it almost seems easier to make it from scratch.

I cannot use the the Dillon powder check system on my Mark 7 Evolution reloader so I have to use the Double Alpha powder check system. Problem is the DA powder check system has a nylon tip on their unit that goes down into the case that makes contact with the powder. When the nylon tip comes out of the case it brings with it flakes of powder that then gets all over the press.

I use the Dillon powder check system on my Dillon 650 and the Dillon units use the pictured rod and tip unit and on four different tool heads that makes contact with several different types of powders this brass tip comes out clean and does not distribute powder flakes on the reloader...My thought was to have this Dillon rod assembly turned down to fit the DA powder system thus eliminating powder flakes accumulating on my reloader...

In theory I think it will work because the rod that is used on the DA powder check is the same length just smaller in diameter and non threaded....

Yes Sir - The flex was what I was concerned about. Wonder if I would be better suited to attach this rod to a drill and just use course sandpaper made for use on metal and try and turn it down myself this way. The rod does NOT have to be perfect in diameter size from one end to the other...

I don't know what that particular thread is, but they make "all thread" in many different sizes. You might find something already made up that you need. Check your local (good) hardware store.

Or, perhaps, the nylon tip on the DA probe could be painted, plated, or treated in some way that would reduce the stickage?

can you remove the nylon tip from the original piece and make a brass one to replace it?

Can you just remove the brass tip and remount it on a 0.150” +/- 0.003” threaded rod?

Heat should loosen the locktite holding the brass tip on. You could shim or epoxy the brass tip onto the new threaded rod.

With that small diameter and long length, chatter would be the problem.
Yes, a lathe would be the right machine for a job like that on a larger part. There are tools that can be used to support the rod but I would look for other options if possible.

This is not a big deal. Find a machine shop and have at it. Its neither long nor hard.

The best option is to get some all thread of the correct thread diameter and pitch and then take some hardware store brass rod near the correct diameter and tap it to fit your all thread.

Yes doing the tap drill and starting the tap on a lathe would make it dead simple but with a drill that has a built in level and paying attention carefully you could do this with nothing more than a good hand drill. I'll also note that hardware store round bar stock usually comes in 18 inch or 3 foot lengths so you will have lots of spare stock to practice with.

Get a 5/32 rod (.156”) then put on the brass end.

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
Get a 5/32 rod (.156”) then put on the brass end.

Bingo!!!

There is your answer.

A piece of 5/32 drill rod would be perfect.
MSC would have all you want.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
Get a 5/32 rod (.156”) then put on the brass end.

Thanks 220-9er for this suggestion. I will be heading into town tomorrow and will go by the Lowes store to see if they have this. If they do not I will try and order one on line...

As for the brass end I might try and make the tip using a small piece of brass that I will try and Dremel or file and then drill a small hole in it for the rod.

Thanks again to everyone for your feedback, comments, and suggestions...This is gonna work...Mark

you distinctly do not want actual drill rod. Its incredibly annoying to deal with the tools you are describing as its hardened.

quote:

Originally posted by hrcjon:
you distinctly do not want actual drill rod. Its incredibly annoying to deal with the tools you are describing as its hardened.

Thanks Hrcjon - Glad you mentioned that as my first search on line referenced drill rod..Did not think about the difference in hardness as well as the opportunity to break more easily.

Thanks for mentioning this point...Mark

I use the RCBS powder check which has a nylon tip, I coat the tip with talc powder.

I am not familiar with your hardware but the problem you seek to solve evinces the behavior characteristic of static electricity between the powder and the rod tip. Dispensing with or disposing of such charges might resolve your issue. Defining a problem before attempting its solution is an often neglected but helpful approach.

Here is a variety of stainless starting in 6” lengths.
The brass end is a simple lathe job or you might find something here too.

https://www.mcmaster.com/stand...-rods/diameter~5-32/