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Nullus Anxietas
Picture of ensigmatic
posted
Got a couple Christmas tree ornaments my wife wants me to try to save.

Of course: Odd shapes that won't lend themselves well, if at all, to clamping of any kind.

So what I need is an adhesive that will essentially bond instantly--or nearly so. Something where it'd be reasonable to hold it manually for a minute or so while it cured enough to hold.

I have this Loctite Plastics Bonding System, a two-part system, that ISTR worked well on plastics. Has glue and an activator. It says "Plastics, All Plastics, All Materials." I wonder if they really mean all materials or all plastic materials? Instructions are likewise ambiguous.

Recommendations?



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Posts: 26009 | Location: S.E. Michigan | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
Picture of HRK
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I'ved used a few of Gorilla Glue products, superior to other bonding products of similar style.

https://www.gorillatough.com/
 
Posts: 24507 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Partial dichotomy
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I assume you want it to dry clear?

I'd go with clear two part epoxy.




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Posts: 39404 | Location: SC Lowcountry/Cape Cod | Registered: November 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nullus Anxietas
Picture of ensigmatic
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by HRK:
I'ved used a few of Gorilla Glue products, superior to other bonding products of similar style.

https://www.gorillatough.com/
I've had excellent results with the original Gorilla Glue, but the setup time is too long for that.

Gorilla Super Glue Gel might do the trick, though. Says "... drying within 10-45 seconds." Might give me enough time to get the parts properly-mated before they bonded too tightly, but not so long as to make it impractical to play human clamp Smile
quote:
Originally posted by 6guns:
I'd go with clear two part epoxy.
Setup time's too long to sit there holding it manually.



"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
 
Posts: 26009 | Location: S.E. Michigan | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Partial dichotomy
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 6guns:
I'd go with clear two part epoxy.

Setup time's too long to sit there holding it manually.


Understood. Perhaps let it mostly set up and then apply? I've actually done this as in the drippy phase it was just too "drippy".

Best of luck whatever you decide.




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Posts: 39404 | Location: SC Lowcountry/Cape Cod | Registered: November 22, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of MaSigchist
posted Hide Post
Bondic UV cure adhesive - gel thickness, set it up and it cures almost instantly after you hit it with the UV light. You can buy the kits from Amazon.


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Posts: 918 | Location: Greenfield, MA USA | Registered: May 13, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nullus Anxietas
Picture of ensigmatic
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by MaSigchist:
Bondic UV cure adhesive - gel thickness, set it up and it cures almost instantly after you hit it with the UV light.
How would that work with (painted) ceramics, which I presume the UV light wouldn't penetrate well--if at all?

ETA: Asked and answered: From their FAQ:
quote:
Can Bondic® harden in places with no light?
No, Bondic® can only harden when exposed to light of a specific wavelength. If bonding two parts together where the LED light cannot reach, one of the two bonded parts has to be translucent in order for the light to reach through to the Bondic® formula.

Sounds like it might be a two-person job? One to hold the pieces in position and another to hit it with the light?



"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
 
Posts: 26009 | Location: S.E. Michigan | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic:

Gorilla Super Glue Gel might do the trick, though. Says "... drying within 10-45 seconds." Might give me enough time to get the parts properly-mated before they bonded too tightly, but not so long as to make it impractical to play human clamp Smile



Gorilla super glue gel is the strongest one I’ve ever used. It stuck 2 fingers together in about 4 seconds.

Lucky me, I keep acetone around.


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Posts: 2410 | Location: Roswell, GA | Registered: March 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
semi-reformed sailor
Picture of MikeinNC
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I used a glue gun and super glue on some similar things.

First I used hotglue in the outside to hold the piece in place and then used superglue in the cracks. Afterward I just popped the hot glue off with a fingernail.



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Posts: 11517 | Location: Temple, Texas! | Registered: October 07, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nullus Anxietas
Picture of ensigmatic
posted Hide Post
Thanks for the suggestions, y'all

Looks like I'll be giving Gorilla Super Glue Gel a try. Wish me luck Smile



"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe
"If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
 
Posts: 26009 | Location: S.E. Michigan | Registered: January 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
Picture of architect
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To my mind this calls out for a contact cement of some kind. With this type of product, as with most gluing, proper alignment of the parts can be difficult. What I've done that has mostly worked in the past is to glue toothpicks as temporary alignment tabs to hold the pieces in proper position until the glue sets up. The toothpicks are affixed with hot glue which is fairly easy to remove after the attaching glue sets up. Holding the pieces in the right position while affixing the toothpicks now becomes the critical step, patience and precision will be rewarded. Toothpicks are affixed as so:

   | |
   |||
---+++---crack---
   |||
    |

in at least three positions across the crack (preferably near each end and in the center). Then apply the glue to the separated pieces and bring together with the toothpicks as a guide. Let gravity do the clamping. Perhaps leave the areas near the toothpicks glue-free.

For bigger, more robust work, tongue depressors can be substituted for toothpicks. I suppose tape might be useful too, but then the challenge becomes getting sufficient glue in place after the preliminary setup. Rubber bands might also provide an alternative positioning aid.
 
Posts: 6876 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Raptorman
Picture of Mars_Attacks
posted Hide Post
LocTite makes a glass glue.


____________________________

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Posts: 34492 | Location: North, GA | Registered: October 09, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of holdem
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Please post an update. My wife has a ceramic snowman that broke this year. One clean break, easy enough to bond back together, or so I thought.

I started with super glue gel. Well, I might as well have been using water. Not only would it not bond, it wasn't even sticky. I was stunned.

Went to Hobby Lobby and bought something that is supposed to be specific for ceramics. Same result as the super glue gel.

Whatever they use in the ceramics seems immune to adhesive.
 
Posts: 2377 | Location: Orlando | Registered: April 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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