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What size pneumatic nail to frame standard 2x4 walls ? Login/Join 
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Picture of wrightd
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I'm building an outside structure using conventional 2x4 wall framing w/studs & plates etc., and I will be buying a used pneumatic framing nail gun.

So what size nails are typically used for this ? Mine will need to be Galvanized because of the pressure treated dimensional lumber I'll be using, but I don't have a clue about the proper nail size and what spec it needs.

Any advice appreciated !




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16d ring shank




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Yeah, I'd use 16s as well. Not sure if they are measured or referred to differently for nail guns.


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You want STAINLESS nails if you want this to last IMO. Pressure treated lumber eats nails. 3 1/2"ring shank is your primary choice, but of course it depends on what you are nailing.


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16d is pronounced 16 penny. Common is thicker than sinker, you want common. Hot dipped galvanized or stainless when using PT.

However, you won't find them for pneumatic nailers. You want .131 x 3 1/4" and use 3 per top/bottom plate to stud connection when end nailed. You'll use a different nail and number of nails if you are toe nailing the studs to the top/bottom plates. You also want what fits the angle of the gun you are using.

Find a nailing schedule for your area to figure out what size and number of nails to use for each connection.
 
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And get the correct nails (degree) for the gun you'll use.


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99% of framing guns DO NOT USE 16d nails…

Most framing guns use 12d nails which are 3” long as opposed to 3 1/2” long for a 16d nail.

The issue is whether you use a clipped head nail v. A full head nail. Obviously, a full head nail is better but as said above you need to be sure the head, and angle of the nails will fit your gun properly.

When we were nailing PT lumber we used to hand drive them. Galvanized gun nails are pretty rare so if you can find them you might need to buy a gun that works with what you can get.

Paslode is what we used so we didn’t need a compressor and having to deal with the hose but there are other good brands as well.


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If you lived closer, I'd give you a giant box of 16 penny that work in my Bostich framing nailer. I lent it out once and it was returned with enough nails to build a couple of houses.

16 penny is the preferred.


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quote:
Originally posted by smlsig:
99% of framing guns DO NOT USE 16d nails…

Most framing guns use 12d nails which are 3” long as opposed to 3 1/2” long for a 16d nail.

The issue is whether you use a clipped head nail v. A full head nail. Obviously, a full head nail is better but as said above you need to be sure the head, and angle of the nails will fit your gun properly.

When we were nailing PT lumber we used to hand drive them. Galvanized gun nails are pretty rare so if you can find them you might need to buy a gun that works with what you can get.

Paslode is what we used so we didn’t need a compressor and having to deal with the hose but there are other good brands as well.

Smlsig,

I got the Nail Gun. It's a Bostich Framing Pneumatic w/21 degree loading cartridge slide. It's well used, looks like it was used hard and put up wet (so to speak), but as long as the gaskets and seals are still good, I'm assuming it has life left since I knew the owner before he passed. I won't know for sure until I clean and lube it a little and test it out. It came with a few strips of nails, they are Grip Rite Collated (plastic glued) 3" x .120 Ring Shank Exterior Galvanized, 21 degree Round Head Nails. The strips fit the gun and the size specification of these nails are approved in the online docs I found for the gun.

Looking at the nails themselves they seem to very high quality, though not being a professional carpenter I can't say it with any authority.

So, are these nails the right spec for nailing up my walls, plates, and rafters ? The framing lumber will be 2x4 for walls and plates, and 2x6 for a header opening and some roof rafters.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wrightd,




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Yep they are. Thanks very much guys.




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Sorry, late to respond but as you found out they should work without any problems.

Maintenance is the key to keeping pneumatic guns in good working order. You might be able to find a repair facility, or a dealer that seems your brand that has a tech that can give yours a tune up if needed.

There are rebuild kits available and here’s a video on how to rebuild one..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0u-2wGgxA8


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Outstanding. Thanks VERY much Smlsig. Whether I do the rebuild kit myself or pay a service, it looks like a good option to rebuild this guy given the durability and obvious quality of the gun.

I'm almost done with the foundation and floor, and have drawn up my cutting and framing plan. This is gonna be a blast.

I already found some structure tie-down products, but I'll do that last since I want to connect that hardware to the outside of the structure so I'll have access to it after it's built.




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sorry late to the project.... If possible have the nail gun serviced....Possibly a drop or two down the air inlet tube once a day to keep the piston /o-rings lubed..... Last but not least make sure your air supply compressor/storeage capacity is adaquate for your nail guns needs..... Be extra careful if the nail guns safety has been deactivated and will fire a nail without it being placed against the lumber and can fire at the touch of the trigger( Like a hair trigger)..... Trust me because I know about this easy fire trigger from personal experience.............. ................... drill sgt.
 
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I'd love to see progress pics if you feel like taking the time.




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