My safe no longer recognizes my PIN code. It’s a SecuRam top lit lock. Just decided to invalidate my code at random. Problem is the thing is locked with everything inside. Absolutely beyond frustrating.

Anyone have any advice?

I’ll be calling Liberty tomorrow to see what they can do for me.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Beancooker,

Sure. My locksmith installed a similar lock keypad on my safe when this happened. My combo opened it right up. I then replaced the keypad.

Even though I have an AMSEC safe with a keypad, I’m curious to see how this goes. I thought I had a similar issue, but I didn’t realize that the locking wheel slop had to be COMPLETELY taken up in the locking-CCW direction for the keypad to accept the PIN. Not even their customer service knew that; I figured it out on my own.

Best of luck!

I know we all enjoy the SF brain trust, and ask questions here. And, I don't presume that you haven't searched elsewhere.

However, the AI expert online suggests replacing the battery with a quality battery.

There are numerous threads (such as Reddit) that have many potential solutions, such as replacing the keypad (obviously once open), etc. Amazon sells the keypad, for example.

Sounds like a known problem, with potential solutions.

https://securamsys.com/pages/support

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
Even though I have an AMSEC safe with a keypad, I’m curious to see how this goes. I thought I had a similar issue, but I didn’t realize that the locking wheel slop had to be COMPLETELY taken up in the locking-CCW direction for the keypad to accept the PIN. Not even their customer service knew that; I figured it out on my own.

Best of luck!

My small Liberty Safe is like that. If the slop in the handle isn’t just right, you’ll hear the actuator try to move, but it can’t because it’s bound up. Adjust the handle slightly and try again. 15 years old and never an issue. S&G keypad.

This one is a little different. When you type in the code, it acts as if the incorrect code is entered, it even puts you in the penalty timeout for wrong code entry.

The worst part is that there is medication stored in there, as well as my carry pistol, all my wife’s jewelry, my watches… this is a big pain in the ass. I’m praying that it’s as simple a fix as it was for Fredward.

The first thing I did was changed the battery. Twice, for good measure.

Do you have a key? Typically on an electronic safe there is a backup key and if you pop the keypad off, you’ll see the key hole.

quote:

Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
Even though I have an AMSEC safe with a keypad, I’m curious to see how this goes. I thought I had a similar issue, but I didn’t realize that the locking wheel slop had to be COMPLETELY taken up in the locking-CCW direction for the keypad to accept the PIN. Not even their customer service knew that; I figured it out on my own.

Best of luck!

The wheel on my Cannon safe must be at full travel clockwise or you ain't getting in ..

Securam is a fairly reliable lock manufacturer. It is possible that the problem lies with the keypad, but with electronics anything is possible.

Quality electronic locks do not have any sort of back up outside of a purpose designed redundant lock.

Most of the safes I drill open are due to failed electronics.

My Liberty with electronic lock did that. Disconnected the battery, let it sit for a few minutes, and reconnected. Luckily, it opened. It stayed open until the S&G manual combo lock arrived and I installed it. That was years ago. No issues since and I will never have an electronic lock on a safe again.

I may be stating the obvious, but have tried a new battery. This happens to me every couple of years and the solution has always been a new battery. Worth a shot.

Hope this helps.

I wonder if a new battery would help.

I finally changed out the S&G keypad on my AmSec I got in 2000 to an S&G dial after it shat the bed.
If you have any questions/concerns I suggest you check out Jesse @ Safe City, Mesa (480) 497-3882.

Try the default code that was in your manual when you got the safe. It's possible that the lock failed back to factory settings. Also, get your safe serial number before you call in.

When I bought my safe, this lock was an option. Its mechanical and electric so you'll never be stuck.

https://www.lockmasters.com/lp...l-dial-bright-chrome

quote:

Originally posted by a1abdj:
Securam is a fairly reliable lock manufacturer. It is possible that the problem lies with the keypad, but with electronics anything is possible.

Quality electronic locks do not have any sort of back up outside of a purpose designed redundant lock.

Most of the safes I drill open are due to failed electronics.

Dumb question.
When you drill a safe does this ruin the safe or can you just install another lock and the safe is still good to go?

quote:

Dumb question.
When you drill a safe does this ruin the safe or can you just install another lock and the safe is still good to go?

Usually done with a single hole that's hidden beneath the keypad/dial. Plug the hole, install a new lock, and you're good to go again.

That is good to know.
Both mine are electronic and that worries me sometimes.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
That is good to know.
Both mine are electronic and that worries me sometimes.

Agreed, I don't keep a battery in mine, since it eats batteries at an alarming rate. So, I just keep the 9v on top & install it when I need to open it.

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
That is good to know.
Both mine are electronic and that worries me sometimes.

Agreed, I don't keep a battery in mine, since it eats batteries at an alarming rate. So, I just keep the 9v on top & install it when I need to open it.

What do you consider eating batteries?
I open one safe twice a day, sometimes more and the other I open twice a day 4 days out of the week.
I use Duracell Procell 9Vs and get 6-7 months out of a battery.
I hate changing the batteries as the wires are so thin always afraid I am going to break them.

Just thinking about the future, maybe replacing an electronic lock every so many years, whether it needs it or not would be wise? Maybe 5 years if used a lot or 10 years if used a little?

I like the convenience on of electronic locks. I'm in the first try everytime. The mechanical ones, I'm probably 40% first try, 40% second try, and 20% three or more.