I have a similar experience with an "electronic keypad" lock. Here are thee LOWlights...

-Entered pin, heard beeps, tried to turn handle, no go
-Entered pin, heard beeps, tried to turn handle, no go
-Entered pin, heard beeps, tried to turn handle, no go
-changed battery, no go
-Tried to rock safe thinking something was jammed, no go
-This went on for minutes, prob an hour, NOTHING
-Finally called local locksmith
-He started drilling and also called the safe mfg
-After about 2-3 hours he was in
-As it turned out, there is a very minute, cylindrical pin, INSIDE this BOLD electronic lock that broke. This broken pin would not allow the handle to turn.
-Post drilling incident, I had him install a manual dial.

Is there a standard base code to use in this case?

This thread reminds me about the S&G pad I have and it has been on it for over 15 years. Might not be a bad idea to replace it myself.

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Originally posted by Black92LX:

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Originally posted by a1abdj:
Most of the safes I drill open are due to failed electronics.

Dumb question.

When you drill a safe does this ruin the safe or can you just install another lock and the safe is still good to go?

Mine is equipped with a glass plate that is designed to shatter when drilled.

I was able to get a model specific template from the manufacturer just in case it goes awry, but the lock itself is entirely mechanical.

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Originally posted by Black92LX:

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Originally posted by P250UA5:

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Originally posted by Black92LX:
That is good to know.
Both mine are electronic and that worries me sometimes.

Agreed, I don't keep a battery in mine, since it eats batteries at an alarming rate. So, I just keep the 9v on top & install it when I need to open it.

What do you consider eating batteries?
I open one safe twice a day, sometimes more and the other I open twice a day 4 days out of the week.
I use Duracell Procell 9Vs and get 6-7 months out of a battery.
I hate changing the batteries as the wires are so thin always afraid I am going to break them.

2.5 years in this house. Open the safe once or twice a month the at most. Have probably put 6 9v in it.
One of the wires broke off the 9v connector, so I need to solder it back on or just put a new 9v connector on it. Have to clip on the + then hold the wire end to the - while putting in the combo.

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Originally posted by trapper189:
Just thinking about the future, maybe replacing an electronic lock every so many years, whether it needs it or not would be wise? Maybe 5 years if used a lot or 10 years if used a little?

I like the convenience on of electronic locks. I'm in the first try everytime. The mechanical ones, I'm probably 40% first try, 40% second try, and 20% three or more.

I was thinking the exact same thing. I like my electronic lock as I can get it opened in seconds. I have been tested under stress after being just woken up and still got it open in seconds on the first try. I don’t think I could do that on a mechanical dial lock.

I'd be less concerned if mine had a keyed backup.
I keep a quick access option outside the safe, also keeps me from having to deal with the broken 9v connector every time

Stories like this are why I had a mechanical lock installed on mine.

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Mine is equipped with a glass plate that is designed to shatter when drilled.

You're assuming that there's only one way to drill a lock.

On the commercial side there are rare occasions that you have to go through glass. Not the end of the world, but does require a few extra steps.

I think there are safes that come with combo lock and key lock. I presume either can be used to open the safe.

Instead of a key lock, any chance I can get a safe with both an electronic and mechanical combo lock?

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Originally posted by konata88:
I think there are safes that come with combo lock and key lock. I presume either can be used to open the safe.

Instead of a key lock, any chance I can get a safe with both an electronic and mechanical combo lock?

Yes. One option was posted earlier.

https://www.lockmasters.com/lp...l-dial-bright-chrome

With the safes I’ve seen that have a key lock and a combo lock, both have to be used to open the safe. You can leave the mechanical combo lock in the open position and just use the key, but not the other way around.

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Originally posted by trapper189:
With the safes I’ve seen that have a key lock and a combo lock, both have to be used to open the safe. You can leave the mechanical combo lock in the open position and just use the key, but not the other way around.

The way I understood it, the key lock on the mechanicals only stopped the dial from spinning and didn’t control the actual safe lock itself.

Liberty had a step by step in how to de energize the keypad. They say that fixes 75% of these issues. It didn’t fix mine. Tomorrow at Lunch I will try to get them back in the phone to go through the. “guided” troubleshooting.

According to the customer service person helping me today, the SecuRam top lit keypads fail a lot. This seems to be fairly common.

For those that are curious, it’s a Liberty Revere 64.

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Originally posted by thumperfbc:
The way I understood it, the key lock on the mechanicals only stopped the dial from spinning and didn’t control the actual safe lock itself.

You’re referring to a dial lock. I think konata88 is referring to safes with two locks like this:


Both lock the safe. Both have to be used to unlock the safe. The key can only be removed in the locked position, so the key always has to be used to open the safe. The mechanical lock can be left unscrambled, in which case, only the key needs to be used to open the safe.

So it is true. Liberty definitely has a master code that will work in almost any situation.

She started off by saying she would give me some random numbers to type in and to let her know what the keypad does, this is to diagnose if the keypad failed.

They won’t repeat the code, and they give you three digits and ask what happened, gave three more digits and when she could hear two beeps, she started saying a bunch of other numbers at random.

This is their confusion tactic so you don’t remember the master code.

Their master code opened it right up. I have access to all my stuff again.

They are sending me a new keypad.

Important stuff and valuables will now go into the small safe that I trust. I will also be looking into replacing that keypad with a mechanical turn dial.

Nice ending!

I'm glad you got in.

The lock has a user code and a manager code, neither of which are stored in the keypad. I wonder how the manager code worked and your user code didn't if the keypad is defective.

I also have to wonder why they are not replacing the lock. Since that's where the codes are stored, that's the part that should get replaced if the lock "forgot" the code.

If your user code doesn't work, you cannot set a new one without using the manager code. Did they walk you through setting a new user code?

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Originally posted by Beancooker:

I will also be looking into replacing that keypad with a mechanical turn dial.

Glad you got in. I wouldn't even close it until I changed it to a mechanical lock. Not hard to do but does take a little time. YouTube (or your local locksmith if you're so inclined) is your friend.

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Originally posted by trapper189:
I'm glad you got in.

The lock has a user code and a manager code, neither of which are stored in the keypad. I wonder how the manager code worked and your user code didn't if the keypad is defective.

I also have to wonder why they are not replacing the lock. Since that's where the codes are stored, that's the part that should get replaced if the lock "forgot" the code.

If your user code doesn't work, you cannot set a new one without using the manager code. Did they walk you through setting a new user code?

They told me to not close the safe until the new keypad arrives. Once the new keypad arrives, it should let me in with my old code.

The house is in escrow, and the safe is included in the sale. I won’t ever be closing this safe again. I’ll install the new keypad and confirm it functions. It will stay open until it’s not mine anymore.

I will call Liberty and transfer ownership once I close escrow.

Oh, maybe I should have checked the battery…