In the midst of a remodel, the old sink base sat a little further left with a double bowl sink. I’m going back with a single bowl sink and debating what to do with my waste line.

The line goes into the slab, so no crawl space access. I’ll have a disposal back in there as well. Needing to get the waste line to the center of the sink base. I have a couple of ideas as what to do, but never hurts to ask for another opinion.

Looks like your single bowl will have its outlet and the disposal more or less mid-way between the hot and cold feeds. In that case, I'd cut the current drain above the ell, and plumb it side ways to accept the new drain, maybe even fit in a tee to use the current vent. It is going to be very tight, but I think you'd want to try to fit in a J trap between the disposal and the drain. It's not going to be easy getting around the hot water feed. Consider re-routing the feed rather than turning the drain into a multi-fitting snake. E.g. cut the copper back to about where the paint/drywall compound is on the pipe so as to get the stub out out of harm's way.

Or maybe I am mis-reading the pic. If the blue cap is where you need to tie the new drain to, it looks a little easier, and you shouldn't have to cut any PVC, just the copper.

I'm the kind of guy who just acquires enough pipe and bends and makes a big puzzle work since its PVC and its all easy to start over. But in fact they make code ok flexible pipe and that is what I would do...and if any of that copper is in the way, that's truly easy to fix since you are going to run a flexible line to the sink anyway.

Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

How do you know the op didn't cut the back out ?

it doesn't need to be centered and since your putting in a waste kang it will even make it easier.

Probably replace the Desanco fitting with a 45˚ and shoot it right to the disposal outlet.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

Guess I won't be be paying myself on this job

I didn't feel like cutting and capping supply lines, drain line, messing with the disposal box and there's another outlet not in the picture. Would have turned the back of the cabinet into Swiss cheese when it was all said and done.

I've pulled countless sink base cabinets and vanity cabinets. Most of them are open back to start with these days. Was actually somewhat surprised this one showed up with a complete back. Nice touch, but not worth the hassle.

quote:

Originally posted by Woodman:
Probably replace the Desanco fitting with a 45˚ and shoot it right to the disposal outlet.

This is what I was thinking too, but as architect pointed out, supply line for my dishwasher is right in the way, could always extend out from the wall a bit to clear. XLT has a good point too, could just leave as is and run the discharge line from the disposal over to it.

I'd repipe the ½" copper. On the hot side, tee-valve-Delta connector, and valve-Delta (maybe 90˚-valve-Delta), and on the cold side, valve-Delta or maybe elle-valve-Delta.

Delta connector = ½" copper sweat x ⅜" compression. You'll be using a ⅜" x ⅜" SS-braided flex line on the dishwasher, so even if the DW is on the left you can still aim the tee to the right and loop your HW line over the waste and back down to a corner mouse hole into the DW mechanical compartment.

This way you would ditch those old chrome angle valves and have regular ½" stops. And your DW supply will be out of the way.

Before you start cutting, buy or at least pick out the sink and disposal your want.

My new single bowl sink has the drain offset in the middle towards the back. Another one we almost bought had it offset to the corner.

I had to change a fitting when the new Wasteking leaked like a sieve, and I replaced it with an Insinkerator

I don’t know why you’d change the drain at all. Install the disposal, point the drain to the left, and hook it up. Easy.

Would cutting the PVC at the wall give you enough room to put a 60 degree elbow to clear the dishwasher feed and allow you to use the trap on the disposal to the back, giving you more cabinet space?

quote:

Originally posted by MattW:

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

Guess I won't be be paying myself on this job

I didn't feel like cutting and capping supply lines, drain line, messing with the disposal box and there's another outlet not in the picture. Would have turned the back of the cabinet into Swiss cheese when it was all said and done.

I've pulled countless sink base cabinets and vanity cabinets. Most of them are open back to start with these days. Was actually somewhat surprised this one showed up with a complete back. Nice touch, but not worth the hassle.

Exactly why I never put backs in lower cabinets, around here all of our walls are textured to the floor and painted before cabinet installation. most of the time people want drawer banks and not adjustable shelving with a single drawer anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:

quote:

Originally posted by MattW:

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

Guess I won't be be paying myself on this job

I didn't feel like cutting and capping supply lines, drain line, messing with the disposal box and there's another outlet not in the picture. Would have turned the back of the cabinet into Swiss cheese when it was all said and done.

I've pulled countless sink base cabinets and vanity cabinets. Most of them are open back to start with these days. Was actually somewhat surprised this one showed up with a complete back. Nice touch, but not worth the hassle.

Exactly why I never put backs in lower cabinets, around here all of our walls are textured to the floor and painted before cabinet installation. most of the time people want drawer banks and not adjustable shelving with a single drawer anyway.

Interesting how things differ between zip codes. Down here, whether new construction or renovation, you can bank on 36"-40" up off the floor being all but unfinished. Many times the kitchen walls themselves are unfinished given they'll be covered with base cabinets, tile backsplashes, and upper cases that run to the ceiling. Everything I build is custom, and backs go in every case even when the cases are loaded with drawers, hence the reason i'm so picky about them being hacked on by installers who most times are just in a hurry to get done and paid.

I'd want the back of the cabinet there, and holes cut for the plumbing, that's standard down here.

Anyways, I see no need to move the wall plumbing from where it's at. Would be easy enough to come up and over, or out and around, the water supply line and over to the center of the cabinet with PVC to get to the center of the sink. IN fact, I'd prefer it, come straight up from the trap and then over to the center below the sink with enough drop so it will flow well..... That will give you more storage under the sink in the cabinet. Or get a single sink with the drain towards the left side

Here's an American Standard S/S single sink with the drain on the left side (for example):

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ameri...n-One-Kit/1000002908

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:

quote:

Originally posted by MattW:

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Personally, I'd cut the waste line, remove as much sheetrock as I needed to, and re-plumb the waste line into the middle of the base. Oh, and tell your cabinet guy that if he ever cut the entire back out of one of my cabinets to install in, he and that cabinet base would have been thrown off my job, and no paycheck would be forthcoming. Wow, just wow.

Guess I won't be be paying myself on this job

I didn't feel like cutting and capping supply lines, drain line, messing with the disposal box and there's another outlet not in the picture. Would have turned the back of the cabinet into Swiss cheese when it was all said and done.

I've pulled countless sink base cabinets and vanity cabinets. Most of them are open back to start with these days. Was actually somewhat surprised this one showed up with a complete back. Nice touch, but not worth the hassle.

Exactly why I never put backs in lower cabinets, around here all of our walls are textured to the floor and painted before cabinet installation. most of the time people want drawer banks and not adjustable shelving with a single drawer anyway.

Interesting how things differ between zip codes. Down here, whether new construction or renovation, you can bank on 36"-40" up off the floor being all but unfinished. Many times the kitchen walls themselves are unfinished given they'll be covered with base cabinets, tile backsplashes, and upper cases that run to the ceiling. Everything I build is custom, and backs go in every case even when the cases are loaded with drawers, hence the reason i'm so picky about them being hacked on by installers who most times are just in a hurry to get done and paid.

Some of my work.

https://www.houzz.com/professi...fvwus-pf~1006731989?

quote:

Originally posted by XLT:
Some of my work.

https://www.houzz.com/professi...fvwus-pf~1006731989?

Very nice work sir. And thank you for taking the upper cabinets to the ceiling in many of those installs. It drives me crazy when people opt for a set of short uppers that leave a gap between the cases and the ceiling.

My apologies to the Op for the slight thread drift.