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| Green grass and high tides |
Apphunter, sent you an email to your profile address yesterday. Thanks. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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| Green grass and high tides |
Thanks guys. A Utv is not an option as in the state where I would use Utv's can not be licensed for road use. Many years ago (decades) I had vw bugs. One I put a baja kit on. It was pretty rough as all the $ I had at the time went into keeping it running and was my primary mode of travel. But it was a great vehicle. I drove it all over the place, woods,etc. It would literally go anywhere. It could go places nothing else could go. It was and amazing rig. I had another bug that was a daily driver and was stole of the curb at my place. The days of my wrenching on stuff to any degree are over. But I see lots of (baja bugs) for sale in Ca, and mostly in Az. Anywhere from $3500 to $10k. Based on my experience acquiring one that is solid and sound would be a great beach vehicle. Plus the 4 spd. manual is a big plus. I may need some help from my Az brethern here on finding one in your state "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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What my AI Overlord said: 1. 4-cyl vs V6 (short answer: go V6 for sand) For beach use, the older 4-cylinder Jeeps (YJ/TJ era) are usually underpowered, especially once you add bigger tires or passengers/gear. They’ll do it, but you end up working them pretty hard in sand. The modern V6 (3.6L) has plenty of power, is smoother on the highway, and is just easier to live with day-to-day. 2. Best “set it and forget it” choices (low wrenching) If you don’t want to constantly wrench on it, I’d look at: JK Wrangler (2012–2018) – 3.6L V6 Avoid the 2007–2011 3.8L if possible (more complaints about reliability and power). 2012+ 3.6 Pentastar is a big step up in power and refinement. Tons of aftermarket support if you want to modify later, but you don’t have to. Rust and previous “bro science” mods are the big things to watch. JL Wrangler (2018+) – 3.6L V6 Nicer interior, better road manners, still great off-road. More money, but better as a daily driver. 3.6 can be had with a manual if you want to scratch that itch. 3. Manual vs automatic Manual: Fun factor is high, especially on a Wrangler. Fine on the beach—low range + airing down and you’re good. Just remember lots of sand driving = lots of clutch use; not a big deal if you’re smooth and not rock-crawling all day. Automatic: For soft sand, autos are honestly easier: less chance of stalling, smoother crawling. If you end up letting other people drive it, an auto is more “family/friends friendly.” If you really miss a manual, I’d say grab a 3.6 with a stick and don’t overthink it. Just avoid the super old beat-to-death stuff unless you’re okay chasing little issues. 4. Things to look for / avoid (especially for beach duty) Look for: As little rust as possible—frame and underbody first, pretty paint second. 3.6L engine (2012+ JK or JL). Stock or mildly modified (small lift, sensible tires). Wild builds usually mean questionable wrenching in the past. Evidence of basic maintenance (fluids, diffs, etc.). Be cautious of / avoid: Heavily rusted frames—especially anything that’s already lived its life at the beach. “Built not bought” rigs with hacked wiring, bumper-to-bumper aftermarket, and no proof of who did it. Very tall lifts on cheap components. You don’t need big flex to drive on sand. Super old 4-bangers unless the price is really right and you’re okay with slower, more “quirky” ownership. 5. Beach-specific notes Whatever you buy, rinse the undercarriage religiously after beach trips. Salt + time = frame cancer. Airing down makes a bigger difference in sand than engine choice. A bone-stock V6 on decent tires at the right PSI will do great. A lighter Jeep will absolutely feel better on the sand than your F-350 or big diesel—so your thinking there is spot on. Bottom line: No, it’s not a bad idea at all—as long as you get a decent condition JK/JL with the 3.6, inspect for rust, and don’t over-lift it. If you want simple and fun with minimal wrenching, I’d aim for a mostly stock 2012+ Wrangler with the V6 and either transmission you prefer. Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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| Green grass and high tides |
myrottiety, I tried to email you. Did you receive? "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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| Green grass and high tides |
As a baseline, what are your thoughts on this vehicle? Thanks guys. https://www.onestopyakima.com/...er-Unlimited/1408312 "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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That would sell quick here in the Yoop. It is well set up without being over the top. If interested in it, I would take a good look at the frame. End of Earth: 2 Miles Upper Peninsula: 4 Miles | |||
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That looks like a good one. I had a 2015 Sport and 2014 Rubicon, both hard top, 2-door, and manual transmission. But that 5-speed auto is a great box. I also had a 97 TJ with the 4.0, it was a good motor but I prefer the newer 3.6. Two minor things to watch for are water leaks around the removable roof panels and oil leak around the oil filter from a cracked housing. No car is as much fun to drive, as any motorcycle is to ride. | |||
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Didn't see anything. But I just dropped you a test mail. Train how you intend to Fight Remember - Training is not sparring. Sparring is not fighting. Fighting is not combat. | |||
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Doesn’t say if it has a crash in the past. Otherwise that’s a deal. | |||
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A few comparables I see around here. 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport 105K Miles $18,998 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 115K Miles $20,998* 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara 50K miles $28,998* That Rubicon is MUCH more than a beach vehicle but the price looks good. Like others have already posted, take a good look at the frame. I loved the Saraha 2-door I had with the 4.0. Wish I still had it. It was great in mud at the ranch, did well rock crawling along the Perdnales, and I really enjoyed driving it. | |||
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