Will this power adapter be fine for running this camera?

December 07, 2018, 09:26 AM

Black92LX

I need to do some testing with my doorbell camera before final install and being attached to the 3/4” doorbell wire is not helpful.

Much simpler if I can do it sitting inside at the table.

Camera specs found at this link:
https://www.nellyssecurity.com...-cameras/nsc-db1.pdf

Was going to make a little setup using a doorbell transformer and came across this guy while on Amazon.
Power Adapter for Ring Video Doorbell, Ring Video Doorbell 2 & Ring Video Doorbell Pro,HLT Ring Doorbell Accessories Power Supply Charging Adapter (SPQ-2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F..._api_i_ddPcCb0Z91Z5R

Seems to fall into the proper range.

December 07, 2018, 10:52 AM

Shaql

As long as the output amperage rating on the PS is higher than the rating of the camera, you're GTG.

Your Camera is .6A and your PS is .5A. So no.

December 07, 2018, 10:56 AM

BBMW

You're camera wants .6A. The transformer puts out .5A. You need a transformer with a little more umph.

Are you going to use the camera's built in recorder, or are you running it to a DVR/NVR?

December 07, 2018, 11:34 AM

Black92LX

I am not good with all this electrical stuff.
Anyone able to point be towards an 18v .6A power supply possibly?
Everything seems to be .5A.

I will not be using the onboard media storage since I record continuously.
Just my BlueIris setup on the PC.

Says 16-24 VAC

So would I be able to cut the barrel connector off to expose the 2 wires and use this power supply?
UpBright NEW Global 16V AC / DC Adapter For Model No: 481606003C0 481606003CO 15V - 16VDC 600mA 14.5W 16.0V 0.6A - 1A Class 2 Transformer Power Supply Cord Cable Battery Charger Mains PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010..._api_i_CiRcCbBZJ44P3

December 07, 2018, 12:43 PM

FenderBender

you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

December 07, 2018, 12:43 PM

Skins2881

Why aren't you using your existing chime transformer? That would be easiest way.

December 07, 2018, 01:50 PM

Black92LX

quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Why aren't you using your existing chime transformer? That would be easiest way.

I will for my final install. The install I will have to permanently modify my doorframe to accommodate the unit.
So I want to fully test it with my system prior to the final install to make sure everything works as I am wanting it to prior to modifying the door frame.

December 07, 2018, 01:58 PM

Black92LX

quote:
Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

Did not realize I could exceed the amperage.
Easy enough found a 18v 1a.

December 07, 2018, 01:59 PM

Skins2881

quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Why aren't you using your existing chime transformer? That would be easiest way.

I will for my final install. The install I will have to permanently modify my doorframe to accommodate the unit.
So I want to fully test it with my system prior to the final install to make sure everything works as I am wanting it to prior to modifying the door frame.

Still use the existing transformer. Get 25', 50', 100' of 18-2 thermostat wire. Wire from transformer to testing location. Then test. Then reconnect like it was prior to testing. Easy peasy.

December 07, 2018, 06:12 PM

Skins2881

Black, just checked Rings website for transformer requirements. Ring Pro says it needs a bigger transformer than what you likely have.

Most houses have a 10VA trans and Ring says you need a 30VA trans. In my neck of the woods all the houses have a 10VA and 30VA is only used for commercial and retail settings. So if it's the same way where you are you will need to swap out your trans. It's super easy do do and I can walk you through it in no time flat.

If your chime setup looks like this, then you will need to upgrade for Ring Pro.

December 07, 2018, 06:28 PM

Some Shot

quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
quote:
Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

Did not realize I could exceed the amperage.
Easy enough found a 18v 1a.

Make certain that the output is AC (not DC).

December 07, 2018, 06:44 PM

Black92LX

I have a Nelly’s camera and not the ring it calls for a 16V to 24V transformer.
When I take a reading at the bell wires at the door I get 16v. I would like to bump that up a bit.
I wonder if I have a 20V transformer and am loosing some power at door as there are 3 separate chimes connected to it.

December 07, 2018, 06:53 PM

Black92LX

quote:
Originally posted by Some Shot:
quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
quote:
Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

Did not realize I could exceed the amperage.
Easy enough found a 18v 1a.

Make certain that the output is AC (not DC).

Head spinning. So confusing.
I have always hated doing electrical stuff. I just don’t get all this stuff.

I’ll just try to run some cord from the door and see if I can shut the door without damaging it. Since it will be balls cold for sometime.

December 07, 2018, 07:11 PM

Skins2881

quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
I have a Nelly’s camera and not the ring it calls for a 16V to 24V transformer.
When I take a reading at the bell wires at the door I get 16v. I would like to bump that up a bit.
I wonder if I have a 20V transformer and am loosing some power at door as there are 3 separate chimes connected to it.

VA is how they are measured. You will need a 30VA just to ring three chimes plus the power requirements of the unit itself. So you likely already have 30VA and you may need to bump to 40VA.

December 08, 2018, 11:23 AM

Black92LX

Skins I just dropped you an email.

December 08, 2018, 01:55 PM

Skins2881

Replied to email, pasted here too in case someone else finds it useful.

quote:
Yep, you will need min 30VA transformer, probably a 40VA to power your three chimes plus the unit itself. If it says .5a that equal 9 VA at 18v which is about what a 16v transformer actually puts out. Each chime is near 10VA so you will need about 40VA total. Your existing one is likely 30VA, it will be printed on the side of it. Do you know where your transformer is located? It's super easy to change out. For the most part they all use a 1/2" knock out and you match up blk to blk, wht to wht, grn to bare wires. On the secondary side (16 or 24v) connections take a pic and the Two wires currently connected to trans gets put back the same way.

First step, check VA rating on existing transformer and take pic. If 10VA, stop there, get new transformer. Likely not the case since a 10VA would burn up pretty fast with three chimes connected. If 30VA, then disconnect one chime and separate wires to avoid short and possible overload.

If it has an onboard battery in the unit you don't need to do anything for testing it, just charge with supplied USB cord before testing. If it relies only on chime system power than run 18-2 thermostat wire from transformer to testing location, temporarily leaving ~~exciting~~ existing wires in place and adding under terminals the test wire to unit. If it's similar to Ring then you don't need transformer power to test, it just won't ring the house chime when testing, but you will still get phone alert.

Hopefully this helps instead of making it more confusing

ETA if you need to find the circuit that controls the transformer, buy a non-contact voltage tester to identify the circuit while your wife/friend flips breakers.