quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Why aren't you using your existing chime transformer? That would be easiest way.

quote:

Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Why aren't you using your existing chime transformer? That would be easiest way.

I will for my final install. The install I will have to permanently modify my doorframe to accommodate the unit.
So I want to fully test it with my system prior to the final install to make sure everything works as I am wanting it to prior to modifying the door frame.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

Did not realize I could exceed the amperage.
Easy enough found a 18v 1a.

quote:

Originally posted by Some Shot:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:

quote:

Originally posted by FenderBender:
you can always go above that amperage, I've seem to recall 18v 1.0 A being fairly common.

Did not realize I could exceed the amperage.
Easy enough found a 18v 1a.

Make certain that the output is AC (not DC).

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
I have a Nelly’s camera and not the ring it calls for a 16V to 24V transformer.
When I take a reading at the bell wires at the door I get 16v. I would like to bump that up a bit.
I wonder if I have a 20V transformer and am loosing some power at door as there are 3 separate chimes connected to it.

quote:

Yep, you will need min 30VA transformer, probably a 40VA to power your three chimes plus the unit itself. If it says .5a that equal 9 VA at 18v which is about what a 16v transformer actually puts out. Each chime is near 10VA so you will need about 40VA total. Your existing one is likely 30VA, it will be printed on the side of it. Do you know where your transformer is located? It's super easy to change out. For the most part they all use a 1/2" knock out and you match up blk to blk, wht to wht, grn to bare wires. On the secondary side (16 or 24v) connections take a pic and the Two wires currently connected to trans gets put back the same way.

First step, check VA rating on existing transformer and take pic. If 10VA, stop there, get new transformer. Likely not the case since a 10VA would burn up pretty fast with three chimes connected. If 30VA, then disconnect one chime and separate wires to avoid short and possible overload.

If it has an onboard battery in the unit you don't need to do anything for testing it, just charge with supplied USB cord before testing. If it relies only on chime system power than run 18-2 thermostat wire from transformer to testing location, temporarily leaving exciting existing wires in place and adding under terminals the test wire to unit. If it's similar to Ring then you don't need transformer power to test, it just won't ring the house chime when testing, but you will still get phone alert.

Hopefully this helps instead of making it more confusing