2013 Ford Flex SEL (key ignition, not push button)
~105k miles.

Recently, the car doesn't start on the first turn. If you turn the key to 'On' and wait a second, then start, it usually fires right up.

Starting to become an issue & don't want it to strand my wife somewhere.

Is this a DIY part replacement? Or is some dealer programming going to be required?

I remember a slightly similar issue on my 2000 Acura TL, and we replaced the ignition cylinder to resolve it.

Would rather replace a part, and DIY if possible.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: P250UA5,

When it doesn't start, is the starter turning over or is it completely silent.

quote:

Originally posted by rizzle:
When it doesn't start, is the starter turning over or is it completely silent.

Nothing.
Seems it's not recognizing the immobilizer immediately, hence the pause at the 'On' turn of the key.

It doesn't turn over or doesn't start?

More than likely it’s a problem with the key.

If the anti theft light goes out after 3 seconds with the key on and it still doesn't start, it might be starter contacts.

Sounds like the system is waiting for a sensor or relay.

Couple things to look at, is fuel pressure required to start?

Do you hear a click after the pause (maybe have your wife try to start it while you listen under the hood)?

Recommend looking online for starting interlocks

Do you have another key to use? If you do, and that one works fine, then you more than likely found the issue.

Also make sure the car battery is fully charged. Low batteries cause a lot of issues with different modules.

Brand new battery in the car. Issue was intermittent prior to the new battery.
Going to put a new battery in the key as a cheap check.

When this happens, do the dash lights all come on, then no cranking when the key is turned to start the engine?

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:
When this happens, do the dash lights all come on, then no cranking when the key is turned to start the engine?

All is normal apart from it not starting. All normal dash lights, fan, stereo, etc.

More in depth diagnosis is going to be needed. It very well may be the ignition switch having an electro/mechanical failure in the crank position.

Need to be able to see the signals that are being received by the BCM when the switch is in the start position. Need to see if the immobilizer system is working properly.

Going to charge my Forscan computer & see if there are any codes stored tonight or tomorrow.

I do have an error message for 'Check Fuel Inlet'.
Apparently not uncommon & most likely related to the evap valve under the hood.

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:
Going to charge my Forscan computer & see if there are any codes stored tonight or tomorrow.

I do have an error message for 'Check Fuel Inlet'.
Apparently not uncommon & most likely related to the evap valve under the hood.

Could also be this if you have the cap less fuel fill: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JlK2qekqX5s

quote:

Originally posted by PowerSurge:

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:
Going to charge my Forscan computer & see if there are any codes stored tonight or tomorrow.

I do have an error message for 'Check Fuel Inlet'.
Apparently not uncommon & most likely related to the evap valve under the hood.

Could also be this if you have the cap less fuel fill: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JlK2qekqX5s

Thanks, will check that out as well.

The ignition switch feeds thru the PCM then thru the ACM(radio) then to the starter relay.try swapping starter relay with the relay just to the right of it. Looking at under hood fuse box from over the drivers fender the starter relay is the first small black relay just to the right of the larger grey one

quote:

key ignition, not push button

This suggests an ordinary ignition switch. IIRC it is column-mounted. Does the key ever feel as if it isn't turning all the way? That suggests a lock cylinder. I'd be checking for both that and whether the Start position of the ignition switch shows power when you turn the key to that position. You have to take the upper and lower shrouds off the column.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:

quote:

key ignition, not push button

This suggests an ordinary ignition switch. IIRC it is column-mounted. Does the key ever feel as if it isn't turning all the way? That suggests a lock cylinder. I'd be checking for both that and whether the Start position of the ignition switch shows power when you turn the key to that position. You have to take the upper and lower shrouds off the column.

No issue with key movement, just the intermittent no start when turning the key to 'Start'.

Update: Pulled codes, only a P0457: Evap Leak.
I don't believe this would cause a no crank issue like I have.

IMO, shouldn't cause a no crank issue. I misworded my OP. The starter is not engaging on turning the key. No crank is more accurate than no start.

My thinking at the moment, is starter relay or immobilizer relay. Only have 1 key, so not able to test if it's a key issue.

Swapped the relays for Wipers (55) & Run/Start (88) to test.
Also swapped Trailer Tow Battery Charge (12) and Starter (13).
Confirmed they were the same part numbers before swapping the relays.

Issue happened today, wife could not get it to crank. I drove to her office & got it to start.
Turned key to 'On', waited a moment, turn to start, no crank. Let key return to 'On', and repeated turn to start 6-10 times before the starter engaged.

Is there an immobilizer relay/fuse? I don't see it listed in the manual diagram.

Rock Auto shows the same (or same appearing) ignition switch for this car that I replaced in a 2012 Escape a few months ago. It had power in, and power out everywhere except the Start position. When I held the key in Start and gave it voltage with a Power Probe, the car would crank and start. FWIW.