Hi guys,

One of my favorite platforms are the Browning Hi Power (clones). My hand arthritis has progressed to the point that it is difficult to grasp the slide hard enough to pull the slide back and the Hi Power has wimpy serrations.

Has anyone ever had a gunsmith "enhance" or "deepen" the serrations?? Did it help ??

I appreciate your input and opinions ! mike

PS: I'm presently using "skateboard" tape but have to keep reapplying it rather frequently.

https://www.lymanproducts.com/...yr-rack-it-tm-black/
Something like this may help you Mike.

quote:

Originally posted by farman:
https://www.lymanproducts.com/...yr-rack-it-tm-black/
Something like this may help you Mike.

Thanks but I'm hoping to avoid stand-alone products cuz I figure I'll quickly lose it.

Adding more serrations may not be the answer.
More aggressive serrations might work.
As in larger, more pronounced serrations.

But that’s if you want a gunsmith to start messing with your slide.

Skateboard tape kinda sucks. My experience is; it’s not aggressive enough, the grit wears off too easily.
My email is in my profile, shoot me your name and address, I’ll mail you 2 types of tape that I use.
3M tread tape.
There’s one that’s more aggressive than skateboard tape and the other is more rubberized. If this doesn’t work, maybe try what Farman posted.

Im gone tomorrow afternoon, Ill mail that stuff out to you on Monday.

It would take an extremely skilled and well-equipped machinist to cut more serrations, to say nothing of deepening and sharpening the existing ones, and the slide would need refinishing afterwards.

This is something far too many gun makers overlook. As much as I love CZ pistols, their slides, because of the way they ride in the frame, are difficult to grasp, not helped by the closely spaced, blunt-edged serrations.



Too many more makers don't put enough serrations, or style them to look cutesy, like this Kimber "SIS". (A commemorative of a LAPD special investigation unit.) Even the gun rags (which usually never have a bad word to say about anything) of the time criticized them, IIRC.



Smith & Wesson M&P Carry Comp:



Zero reason those rear serrations couldn't run clear up to the scallop cut at the rear end of the extractor. The space behind is wasted as well. The front ones might be useful if an optic is mounted, but otherwise I have no use for front serrations.

The best ones I have seen (so far) are on the P220 and 226 - the full height of the slide, covering the entire surface up to the ejection port, widely spaced and sharp.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

IDK if it will help in your situation, but maybe try cocking the hammer before you rack the slide.

Good topic. I suppose we’ll all get there someday. Even in my late 30s, I looked at Hickock 45 and I could tell I don’t have the strength like he has in his fingers and grip.

Hi guys!
I wanted to thank everyone for their input. After pondering my issue some more, I decided to try a different approach. I made a small wall (ridge) on each side of the slide with JB Weld. This is similar to the "wings" that some guns have. It simply gives my fingers something to push against.

This is mostly a "proof of concept" at this time, as I have no idea how long the JB Weld will last. I ran about 40 rounds through it with no problems and it really does help (a lot) my hands.

Thought you might enjoy my kitchen table gunsmithing adventures !

quote:

Originally posted by mike28w:
Hi guys!
I wanted to thank everyone for their input. After pondering my issue some more, I decided to try a different approach. I made a small wall (ridge) on each side of the slide with JB Weld. This is similar to the "wings" that some guns have. It simply gives my fingers something to push against.

This is mostly a "proof of concept" at this time, as I have no idea how long the JB Weld will last. I ran about 40 rounds through it with no problems and it really does help (a lot) my hands.

Thought you might enjoy my kitchen table gunsmithing adventures !

You think maybe drilling/tapping a knurled-head screw in the side of the slide at the rear would work? I guess it'd look a bit more deliberate than a glob of JB Weld. Depending upon head size, it might not work on both sides for carry. It ought to be pretty inexpensive to do, and heck, a plug could always be threaded or pressed in.

Sample from McMaster-Carr-lots of different shapes.

Drill/tap,a dab of blue Loctite and flush-cutting the screw inside the slide seems all you'd need to do.

quote:

Originally posted by Opus Dei:

quote:

Originally posted by mike28w:
Hi guys!
I wanted to thank everyone for their input. After pondering my issue some more, I decided to try a different approach. I made a small wall (ridge) on each side of the slide with JB Weld. This is similar to the "wings" that some guns have. It simply gives my fingers something to push against.

This is mostly a "proof of concept" at this time, as I have no idea how long the JB Weld will last. I ran about 40 rounds through it with no problems and it really does help (a lot) my hands.

Thought you might enjoy my kitchen table gunsmithing adventures !

You think maybe drilling/tapping a knurled-head screw in the side of the slide at the rear would work? I guess it'd look a bit more deliberate than a glob of JB Weld. Depending upon head size, it might not work on both sides for carry. It ought to be pretty inexpensive to do, and heck, a plug could always be threaded or pressed in.

Sample from McMaster-Carr-lots of different shapes.

Drill/tap,a dab of blue Loctite and flush-cutting the screw inside the slide seems all you'd need to do.

I like your idea !

My thought was that if I continue to like my JB Weld, that when it fell off....I'd try to find a gunsmith who would be willing to run a small bead on both sides, smooth it out and then have the slide cerokoted ( it's already kind of ugly).