2015 Suburban 5.3L with push button start.
Battery has full juice, push button start cycles through but when I hold the button to start I get one click from behind the dash nothing more.
Everything else lights, windows, screens, dash, light up and work.

Going to check the appropriate fuses and relays.

Is there a way to manually check the starter?

And the list of things to go wrong with the worst vehicle I have ever owned continues.
Really wish we were in a spot to get rid of this piece of crap!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Black92LX,

I’ve only messed with a couple “PTS” vehicles…and not a GM, but both times it had something to do with the brake pedal interlock switch.

Texted my dad, he worked for Chevrolet service for quite a while. Will report back when I hear from him.

He just got rid of his 2012 Denali XL, before it needed some AFM/DOD related work [lifters, IIRC].

Low battery in the fob? Seems like it could be an issue with an immobilizer / security feature.

Or just out of sync (or interference from some other radio).

But I'm just guessing randomly.

quote:

2015 Suburban 5.3L with push button start.

Will it start using the remote, presuming you have a fob with that feature.

Is the FOB working, the battery being bad might not let the vehicle start for security reasons, but it should tell you that on a screen.

That would eliminate the starter and battery being an issue

quote:

Originally posted by cyanide357:
Low battery in the fob? Seems like it could be an issue with an immobilizer / security feature.

Or just out of sync (or interference from some other radio).

But I'm just guessing randomly.

My 2 Fords will struggle with the keyless functions if they're in the same pocket as my phone.

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:
Texted my dad, he worked for Chevrolet service for quite a while. Will report back when I hear from him.

He just got rid of his 2012 Denali XL, before it needed some AFM/DOD related work [lifters, IIRC].

I deactivated the cylinder deactivation/AFM the day I bought it so keeping my fingers crossed I have no lifter issues. But I bought it used.

My buddy is going through it now with his 2018 with 100k miles as we speak.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:

quote:

2015 Suburban 5.3L with push button start.

Will it start using the remote, presuming you have a fob with that feature.

Is the FOB working, the battery being bad might not let the vehicle start for security reasons, but it should tell you that on a screen.

That would eliminate the starter and battery being an issue

I’ll check when I am home but I doubt it. Same issue with both fobs and no warnings about not detecting the remote or low battery.

Wife called after I left for work telling me she was taking my truck.
I went home real quick to try to jump it with no luck. Battery was reading good but I put the charger on it to see when I get home.

Hoping it is just the starter. Easy swap and $150 with one day delivery from Amazon.

Found this, it details the steps the BCM goes through validating the ok for the computer to start the vehicle, you may want to go to the link because it has links within the steps to help further.


Link

Why a car won't start when you push the Start button?
By Vlad Samarin Updated: October 28, 2023
If the car doesn't start by pressing the Start button, there are a few things to check. The Push Button Start works in steps. Once you know at which step things go wrong, you will have an idea why the car won't start.

The first step is when you open the door and have the key fob inside the car. The key fob has a chip with the code that is programmed to the vehicle. The security system wirelessly reads the code from the key fob and if it matches, allows the vehicle to start.
When you push the Start button:

First, the vehicle's computer checks if the brake pedal is depressed.

Second, it checks if the vehicle is in Park or Neutral.

Third, the computer checks if the battery has enough power, and only then activates the starter motor that turns over the engine, or switches to "Ready" mode if it's a Hybrid or Electric car.

In some cars, there is one more step: the electric steering lock must unlock the steering before the engine can be started.

To find out why the car won't start, try answering these questions. If the answer has a link, follow it; if not, continue to the next questions.

1. Do the lights come on on the dash when you press the Start button? Yes No
2. Is the "key not found" message displayed or is the key warning light on? Yes No
3. Does the car start if you hold the key fob right next to the start button or insert it into the slot? Yes No
4. Does the car start if you press the start button multiple times? Yes No
5. When you press the brake pedal, do the brake lights come on? Yes No
6. Does the transmission gear indicator show the transmission is in "Park" Yes No
Does the Steering Lock warning light stay on? Yes No.
What happens when you push the Start button?
- The instrument lights start blinking and nothing happens.
- There is a click, the gauges move, but nothing happens.
If the starter cranks normally, but the car won't start, read this guide: The engine cranks but won't start ».

My dad's first response was battery
2nd was it could be interference if you have any kind of decorative ring on the start button?

If you have a 12 volt test light, or a digital/or analog multimeter, there is one test you can do at home for further diagnosis.
Jack up the right front so you can get underneath and see/touch the starter/solenoid. (only needs jacking if you can't get underneath when it's sitting on the ground)

You'll have the battery positive cable going to the top terminal on the solenoid. (generally red, and as big/diameter as your index finger)
The bottom terminal on the solenoid feeds the starter motor via a copper braided wire or a flat copper strap.
The side terminal on the solenoid (generally a purple wire on GM) provides power to activate the pull in coil in the solenoid. (this wire is about the diameter of a .22 LR casing, not the rim)
The orientation of terminals may not be exactly as I specified, but the wire/terminal you need to test for voltage will be the smallest wire diameter.

Attach/touch your test light or multimeter on the side terminal connection on your solenoid and test for voltage.
It should have zero volts at all times until you are actively attempting to start the truck, then it should have nominal 12 volts

If you have no voltage at any time (including when trying to start) your problem is elsewhere and not the starter or solenoid.
If you have nominal battery voltage on the side solenoid terminal when attempting to start, and the starter doesn't operate, you have a bad starter or solenoid.

The above steps assumes that your battery is good and has not failed internally.
You can do a rudimentary test for battery failure by turning on all the lights, heater/AC blower fan(s) for a short duration. Measure the battery voltage when running everything.
While being loaded with the lights/fans, battery voltage should be still at nominal 12 volts. If it plummets, then you have a bad battery and it has failed internally.
You can also test for starter brushes being worn, or a worn/faulty commutator in the starter by taking a hammer and tapping on the bottom of the starter motor while pushing the start button.

Both the underneath electrical testing, and the tapping with the hammer are best accomplished by using two people.
One inside operating the push to start button, and the other with the multimeter and/or hammer.

Impossible to diagnose on internet without scan tool for guidance but, it clicks the relay leads me to wiring and or starter.
You don't say where you are, but if you are in the rustbelt. first place I would go is under fusebox and look for green crusties. very common with the horseshit design.
You can run 12v power direct to solenoid on starter to see if it is starter or wiring. Small post that gets signal, can do off positive lead. but beware if starter good it's gonna crank.

Pretty sure it is going to be the starter. I charged the battery all day, put a new battery in the key fob. It does not start via remote start or sitting in the truck. No warning notices about the remote not being detected.
I checked all the fuses and relays and seem to be in proper order.
The starter is on the passenger side of the vehicle so I laid down on the passenger side and had my father in law try to start it.
I hear a metallic click coming from the area of the starter. I presume the solenoid is kicking the shaft and gear into place against the flywheel but the starter motor is not spinning the gear.

Not a mechanic, however I unfortunately learned a good amount about car repair when we had our GM....did you hit the starter with a hammer when trying to start it? If it turns over, then it's for sure the starter. If it doesnt turn over, it could still be the starter. I know you've been going through a lot lately and a broken down vehicle multiplies the frustration. Whatever it is, I hope it's an easy fix for you!

Yeah, another kick in the balls we did not need. This is probably the straw that breaks the camels back for my on this piece of crap.

Really like the extra cargo space of the Suburban but we’re still going to be going up to the hospital 2 hours each way frequently.

Last thing I need is for something big to happen on one of those trips.
So probably going to dump this thing for a Sequoia while I still have decent equity in this thing.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Yeah, another kick in the balls we did not need. This is probably the straw that breaks the camels back for my on this piece of crap.

Really like the extra cargo space of the Suburban but we’re still going to be going up to the hospital 2 hours each way frequently.

Last thing I need is for something big to happen on one of those trips.
So probably going to dump this thing for a Sequoia while I still have decent equity in this thing.

Our Expedition Max has been great & we've taken it on a few road trips. And gobs of twin turbo torque.
Averaging about 18mpg over about 18k miles.

The old bad starter, There is so many other things it could be with modern multi- module all talking on the buss thing, keep it simple is no longer employed.

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Yeah, another kick in the balls we did not need. This is probably the straw that breaks the camels back for my on this piece of crap.

Really like the extra cargo space of the Suburban but we’re still going to be going up to the hospital 2 hours each way frequently.

Last thing I need is for something big to happen on one of those trips.
So probably going to dump this thing for a Sequoia while I still have decent equity in this thing.

Our Expedition Max has been great & we've taken it on a few road trips. And gobs of twin turbo torque.
Averaging about 18mpg over about 18k miles.

Traded one for my Tundra.
I am pretty much done with anything but Toyota. Traded a mint Highlander for the Suburban. That vehicle was great we just need more room than they offer.

I remember now, you had a late prior gen Exped, right?

Bummer that the Burban has given you so much trouble. Hope you get it resolved or get it gone with ease.

Make sure that battery cable is securely attached at the starter. Had a similar issue where the cable was loose. Everything in the vehicle would come on but the connection was too loose to actually make it turn. Other than that, I’d jump the solenoid and try that second.

You say it has a full battery.

Our '15 Yukon XL appeared to have the same when it died on my son and I sitting at a stoplight. The dash then went full Christmas tree, every dang light on that thing lit up and it was dinging like a church bell.

Had to push it off to the side of the road and get a jump to get it restarted. Drove it straight home putting it in neutral and keeping the rpms up at the one light I had to stop at.

Had the battery tested at a nearby Interstate dealer and it would show a full charge, but ultimately had a bad cell in it.

These vehicles seem to be very finicky about battery voltages.