I feel for you. I had to replace my son's starter on his 2010 Dodge Nitro and whoever designed it to be in it's spot on the vehicle needs to be hanged from a tall tree. I had to buy a couple tools because of the small space, which cost me another $50 for the set of short ratchet box wrenches.

I can't remember if you have said previously if you've been through a transmission on your Suburban yet. We bailed on our 2017 at around 100K miles last year after having to have a transmission replaced to the tune of $5,500 somewhere around 90K and it wasn't feeling all that great afterwards. We also had the $1,000 AC condenser leak fix right outside of warranty. I had put in the DOD disabler and we hadn't gone done that tunnel yet. Traded for a 2022 Z71 Suburban with a bench 2nd row, full MSRP because...those were the times.

After some headaches figuring out the new infotainment system limitations, I really like the new generation Suburbans. The transmission temp doesn't do the 200F nonsense yours does, so they evidently fixed that. Different DOD system, I don't trust it any further but haven't heard anything negative yet.

In other news, a couple months ago I picked up a 2005 Avalanche with 91,000 miles with some rocker rust starting and I've been driving it as much as possible and I really like it. GM really did well with that generation of trucks and BOF SUVs. I keep my 2003 Silverado my dad had in the garage over winter now.

SHUT YOUR MOUTH!!!!!!!!! No need to jinx me.
I have the kit to run the oil cooler sooner. However my bypass is corroded pretty bad and could not get it apart to install new guts.
As with GM and their dumb nonsense. There are multiple types of thermal bypasses that were put on these trucks and I have not had a chance to get under there again and pull it off to make sure I get the right one.

Yeah, AC was replaced a couple of years ago. Shit the bed on a trip in midsummer.

I have had the Range DOD disabler on it since the day I bought it so hopefully we won’t go down that road.
My wife loves this damn thing!

Ohhh, forgot to mention it is 32* and we are supposed to get 1-3 inches of snow tonight. I have to have this thing done by 11am tomorrow.
Garage is small so I’ll have the tail end hanging out of the garage. Hopefully I run into no snags in the morning.
Looks pretty straight forward.

Did a starter on my 92 Mustang, 89 Silverado, and 02 Explorer years ago with out a hitch aside from dropping the Mustang starter on my face.

One classic GM thing I forgot about the 2022, I can't remember if I posted on here about it or not, but came out to a dead battery on it but I was able to get it to jump or something. This was 3 months of owning it, maybe 5,000 miles or less. Took it to the stealership, they said that would be $4xx or something. I said no thanks, how about free under warranty. They came back with wear items are not under warranty. I asked how many batteries have they seen toast 3 months into ownership of a new vehicle (I'm certain this was one that sat in a parking lot in Texas for 6+ months waiting parts. Manager approved new free battery. Evidently the over the air updates the new ones do got stuck in a loop overnight and killed the battery.

You CANNOT shift the new ones without power by the way... I hate the push buttons on the dash, but it hasn't been a problem....yet.

How do you know it's not the solenoid? I understand you think you hear it click, so it isn't frozen, but maybe the high current contacts are fried.

Using your multimeter, check the voltage at the starter while someone else presses the start button. If there's voltage there, it's the starter.

If there's no voltage, then check the low current power coming into the solenoid. If there's voltage there, it's the solenoid.

If there's no voltage, you have a problem upstream from there. Brake pedal switch, push button switch, transmission gear selection sensor, etc.

I feel your pain, though. I changed the oil on the 2012 minivan yesterday and I just loaded 4-10x10 Eurmax canopies, 5 chairs, and a 65 qt Igloo to take the 5 of us to the soccer games today.

Solenoid is integrated into the starter so it does not really matter.

1 hour and 20 minutes from loosing the first lug nut to the truck firing right up.
I took the wheel and wheel well out to get easier access to the wiring. It can be done from under the truck but would have been a huge pain.
Only had to lift the passenger side up so I was able to do it fully in the garage with the door closed.
The hardest part is the damn clip on the wire to the solenoid. Why they just don’t do a ring terminal and a nut on the post is beyond me.
The rest was easy cruising.

Got it all buttoned up and she fired right up!!
None of the connections looked bad and were all tight.
In my reading this is a common failure from heat since it is literally 3 inches from the exhaust manifold.

Glad you got it sorted.

Nice, glad you got it sorted out! I had to do it on my suburban, not because the starter went bad but because I broke a terminal off when I removed it to pull the transmission. Stupid mistake added $200 to the project.

We had an F100 in the late 70s with a 360v8. We added headers and duals and it started eating starters. The fix was a starter blanket. Maybe you can rig one on it if you’re gonna keep it awhile.