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McNoob |
I just wanted to add that I have a small wood shop. Everything I have is on wheels and can moved around. I went with the PORTER-CABLE PCB270TS. It has wheels so you can move it around as needed. It also gives me a decent amount of surface area to work with for larger pieces. I am very happy with it and have completed many projects. I bought mine at Lowes for about $600 with tax if I remember right. I have had it for about 5 years now. Link: http://www.portercable.com/pro...aspx?ProductID=24027  Good luck with whatever you go with and make sure you use the riving knife if and when you can. "We've done four already, but now we're steady..." | |||
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W07VH5 |
Thanks for the recommendation. Oh? Just wondering the reasons. I've read nothing but good. | |||
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goodheart |
The first word of my first response was IF. That's because I have an almost all-festoon shop. The Festool 55 track saw, together with a Multifunction Table with cross-cut rail, will cut sheet goods as well as dimensional lumber. However if it's picture frames, consider just getting a power miter saw for a couple hundred bucks. Very safe, very accurate for you 45 degree cuts for a frame. Oh, just saw you need to do dadoes and rabbets. Better and more safely done with a router, IMO. _________________________ “Remember, remember the fifth of November!" | |||
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| W07VH5 |
I've got a miter saw but here's the scoop; I'm taking a course. The next project is the table saw project. I can do rabbets and dados on my CNC router but that doesn't get me through this project. Noah dime sane?  | |||
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Certified All Positions |
If all of your wood is low moisture content, and they've improved the sensitivity, or rather reduced it, perhaps they're OK now. When I used it, it was expensive to replace the stop, and you didn't always recover the blade either. In my experience, 100% of the stops were not a human touching the blade. The stop feature was shut off so often, to just be able to use the saw it was ridiculous. I don't think it's a necessary safety device, I do appreciate the idea though. But the expense combined with how it actually works... it's a no. The same goes for anything cluttering the blade besides a riving knife. The real danger from a table saw isn't cutting a finger off. If you manage that you've already done a number of things wrong. The real danger is the tool taking a piece from you and throwing it. To prevent this, you just need to follow simple rules. In the same manor, not cutting a finger or anything else off is a manor of following simple rules. Safety is a brain first activity. If you can do it with guns, you can do it with tools. The key is a healthy respect, not fear, and not complacency. For the cost, unless you're running a business, I don't see the expense of Saw Stop being worth it, and if you ARE running a business, it'll get in the way more than anything else. If you have room for a quality cabinet saw, great. If not, the Bosch will do many tasks adequately. I don't dado or rabbet with the table saw, that is what a router table is for. Arc. ______________________________ "Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash "I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM "You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP | |||
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member |
With this I agree. Having spent 25 years in a custom millwork ship, table saws, shapers,, molders, and jointers every day, with no guards, your safety is in your mindset. Use safety devices like push sticks, etc. Never let your fingers get near any cutting device. I still have all 10. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
Thank you for this. I think they have improved the sensing but if it's just going to be a nuisance (and an especially expensive one) I'll probably go with your recommendation. | |||
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| Certified All Positions |
My experience the last time I used one, was when the "stop" or whatever they call the AL block that smashes into the blade, was $60 or so a pop and a pain to change out. It works by connecting a circuit, essentially with moisture content or straight conductivity, like a nail or staple in the wood. People at work think I'm some kind of fanatic because I stop them from doing all kinds of stupid shit. But, I've also witnessed more than a few "accidents" and had some of my own. The table saw will cut whatever you put in front of it. Don't use it when you're tired or distracted, and keep in mind that whatever you're putting through the saw is ALWAYS less expensive than YOU. I've never had the table saw cut me, but I have had some bad kickbacks. Kickbacks are more likely, because the wood itself can have unseen flaws. Most kickbacks can be avoided, and said kickbacks are the most likely way to be injured by a table saw. Not cutting or dismembering. I'd like to bring up the one injury that really gets me with industrial tools, and it's why I don't wear a wedding ring or any other. Degloving. Go ahead and google that. That is the consequence of wearing rings or gloves while using a variety of high speed electric tooling. Construction, or a welding, machine or wood shop, is no place for morons or idiots. In fact, it's not really a place for casual amateurs, and people who want to do it need to take it seriously. A lot like shooting. Arc. ______________________________ "Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash "I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM "You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP | |||
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Member |
The brake on a Sawstop isn't cheap but it's only about $75 and if you're cutting lumber with high moisture content the safety feature can be turned off. When I bought mine I was looking at Powermatic and Sawstop and the Sawstop was at least as good in every way as the Powermatic for a little less money and the safety feature thrown in. | |||
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| Certified All Positions |
Is it a valuable safety feature when you have to shut it off to do work? No. Arc. ______________________________ "Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash "I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM "You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP | |||
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Resident Rogue and Blackguard |
Well looks like you win on the internet today. And they say that money can't buy you a bigger unit...  Save the whales. Redeem them for valuable prizes... | |||
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| Member |
I serviced, maintained industrial woodworking equipment for many years. Unfortunately seen accidents on table saws. Occasionally insurance companies would pay me to look at a machine after a accident, check safety. Most accident on a table saw involved a jammed piece of wood between the fence and blade, pulling the operators hand/fingers into the blade. ALL caused by improper/careless use. In the 1300-1600 price range I would suggest finding a older cabinet saw. Powermatic 66 with a Biesmeyer fence would be first on the list. Put it on a mobile base, it will have a similar footprint to a contractor/portable saw. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
I'm just not going to be able to use a cabinet saw. My area is 15' x 8 and I just don't see a way to make that work. For anything bigger than a few feet long, I'm going to have to wheel it outdoors, up a set of stairs, to make a cut. I didn't choose a job site saw because it's cute. It really looks like the only practical option. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
I went with arcwelder76's recommendation.  Thanks for all the tips and advice, guys. | |||
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Member |
If you use it with green lumber for framing and similar, then you're absolutely right. The people I know that have them use them with dry lumber for making furniture and cabinets and things like that and haven't had any problems. | |||
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Member |
As I set here my fingers are throbing. This afternoon I was not being 100% safe. Result: Two cut fingers. I'll be buying a SawStop. I know it's expensive, but this pain really sucks. And I'll have permanent damage. 50 years of using a table saw. It will cut fingers quickly. Cheers, Doug in Colorado NRA Endowment Life Member | |||
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| Would you like a sandwich? |
For pure portability, Arc's recommendation is tops... I really would recommend you look at a Rigid 4512... Home Depot carries them, and they are a great cross between truly portable, and cabinet. Usually $550 to 600 ish. Large tabletop, and fence is very good for cost. Has wheels, and moves easily. Also, dust collection is very good. | |||
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| Would you like a sandwich? |
Sorry, just read title you purchased it... Make some jigs for it, first being a crosscut sled. It will help your/any table saw much more usable and safe. YouTube can be your friend... BUT, watch several videos. Over time you will see who knows what they are doing, and who is downright dangerous and lucky. | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
Very nice. I was cutting a jig the other day with my free-bee 10" table saw, probably $90 - $110 at a Big Box store, and am reminded every time I use it, why it was given to me for free. One nice job will pay for me to step up to something like your new Bosch. | |||
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| W07VH5 |
This thread is a year old. Djinco resurrected it to point out that no amount of experience can prevent all accidents. If I start building stuff for sale maybe I'll need a cabinet type and maybe I'll go for the Sawstop. I already need another saw so I don't have to keep swapping out the dado. | |||
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