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Three Generations of Service |
I had the tires pried off the rims on the Satoh tractor I'm refurbishing. There's plenty of steel there and they're definitely reusable, but the inside of the rim needs to be cleaned up and smoothed out enough to keep from chafing the tube. I've got a handle on getting the rust and scale off, what I'm looking for is suggestions on a coating that will at least partially fill the inevitable pits and protect the tube. If it seals the surface against further rusting, even better. I'm planning to put a rubber band around the deepest part of the rim dish like they used to on spoked motorcycle wheels. Any suggestions as to process or supplies greatly appreciated. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | ||
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Shall Not Be Infringed |
I've heard great things about POR-15... https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Coating ____________________________________________________________ If Some is Good, and More is Better.....then Too Much, is Just Enough !! Trump 2024....Make America Great Again! "May Almighty God bless the United States of America" - parabellum 7/26/20 Live Free or Die! | |||
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Run Silent Run Deep |
You can use high build primer, lab metal, JB weld, or TIG on larger pits. _____________________________ Pledge allegiance or pack your bag! The problem with Socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money. - Margaret Thatcher Spread my work ethic, not my wealth | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
I'd media blast them then prime it with self etching primer before any final finish. However, you could wire brush off as much as you could then hit it with Ospho followed by primer/topcoats. POR15 works too with less work ~ just wire brush then paint with POR15 (it encapsulates it) then a topcoat. On my Iron (actually steel) gate that was like that ~ I used a grinder down to metal (some rust) then Ospho, followed by Epoxy primer then sandable primer then single stage urethane auto paint. The better the prep (more work) the better the results both in looks and lasting. Check out Eastwood ~ they have everything under the sun for rust work. | |||
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Member |
Sandblast and powdercoat. | |||
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Member |
Sandblast it first and then see what you have, you probably can sandblast them enough to smooth out the rough parts. | |||
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Member |
I would agree on sand blast for sure. | |||
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Three Generations of Service |
Thanks for all the suggestions. Sandblasting is the obvious course, but mine isn't big enough to get the rims in and the nearest commercial place is 70-odd miles away and backed up for weeks. I'll do the best I can with my tools and depending on the results spot fill with bondo if needed and hit them with several coats of paint. It ain't like the tractor is ever gonna work for a living... Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Member |
Try a wire brush wheel on a drill, wear safety goggles. | |||
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No, not like Bill Clinton |
Put some Windex on it | |||
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Member |
This ^^^^^. Once and done!!! | |||
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Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more |
Alas... If only you knew someone filled with yankee ingenuity, handy with tools, well stocked with varied and sundry items of scrap metal, who could rig up a temporary sandblasting enclosure large enough to hold a rim. Wish I could recommend someone to you... I've heard of a guy in Downeast who's pretty clever. Cain't recall his name... (cough, cough) suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
I would sandblast them myself even without a cabinet. Just wear goggles a mask and respirator in an open area. Media is cheap enough for a one time thing. $10 per 50 lb bag at tractor supply ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more |
^^^^^^ Or that... I sandblasted the radiators from my first house in the driveway, inside an old camping tent, wearing a GI M17 gas mask. Was able to recover/recycle about 90% of the blast media for the duration of that project. suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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Three Generations of Service |
Handsome sumbitch too... Hmmmmmmmmmm. Might just have to do something like that. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more |
Humble yet lovable as well. suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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Member |
On my Farmall M I used 36 grit sandpaper on a 7 inch sander/grinder. Being very careful to avoid the tire bead area I brushed on truck bed liner, whatever Harbor Frieght calls their version of it. | |||
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Member |
I wonder what just a thin coat of Flex-Seal would work like after some serious prep with a steel bush followed by a coat of POR-15 would be like? Don't know anyone who's tried such; just brain storming. ___________________________________________________________ Your right to swing your fist stops just short of the other person's nose... | |||
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Member |
When working on Dads Ford 4000 rear wheel, I just filled in the pits with 2 part epoxy, sanded and painted. -- I always prefer reality when I can figure out what it is. JALLEN 10/18/18 https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...610094844#7610094844 | |||
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Alea iacta est |
I’m with the “sandblast and powdercoat” camp. It’s what I would do if it were mine. The “lol” thread | |||
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