Recently picked up a portable generator. After the Valentine's Day freeze and blackout in Texas, we don't want to go without power that long again. So I'm going to add a power inlet and interlock. Question about where to mount the inlet. I could get one that uses a knockout in the bottom of the panel. But I'd have to run the power cord to it. Our meter and panel are next to one another with both just outside our fence. Also on that side of the house (inside the fence) is the box where our cable connects. I'm assuming it's not a good idea to mount the inlet next to that box. Or will it make no difference? Any other tips I should know before starting down this path?

The generator is a good size. 8kW constant/10kW peak. And it can run on propane or natural gas. Thinking about having a natural gas stub poked out there. The gas stove has a line that comes down the wall inside. So would just have to have someone tee and run a stub out there. Could also run my Weber grill with NG too.

We have pretty much the same. We had a cable run from the panel to our back porch for the inlet.

Are you in the Houston area?

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Are you in the Houston area?

Yep. Clear Lake -ish area.

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Originally posted by XinTX:

Yep. Clear Lake -ish area.

https://veteranelectric.net

This is who we had do our install. I bought the inlet box and interlock ahead, they did the conduit and ran the cable through the attic, as well as install the interlock and generator breaker in the panel.

Our panel arrangement is almost exactly what you describe outside the fence and the cable TV box just on the other side. Our porch is on the opposite side of the house from the panel and needed a cable run of about 30ft.including verticals.

We had all this done before Snowmageddon, worked like a champ.

Ask this old house has a decent video on wiring up a transfer switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLgtFCJlVFQ

I added one to my panel which is located inside my garage. I did not need to run an extension for the generator plug. I did the 6 circuit switch and regret not getting the 10 switch.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Re...Kit-310CRK/205793178

To reiterate what's implied in the last two posts, you NEED some sort of transfer switch. You do NOT want power back-feeding into the grid. This is unsafe. Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know.

He did say interlock in the OP. Valid point, and why I had an electrician do the install for me. My interlock prevents the main line breaker from being on while the generator breaker is on.

The real issue is where you can safely run the generator. It has to be outside, most are not rated for any weather, it has to not be near combustibles, attached to fuel if you are using a static source.
Unless you have an auto transfer switch the issue of the cord is mostly irrelevant as you are going to have to manually start the generator and cut over to it any way.

I do have the interlock identified. Made by Eaton (Cutler Hammer) for this panel. I can do the electrical myself. Mostly I was asking if locating the inlet close to the cable/phone inlet would cause signal issues. The generator would be outdoors, away from doors and windows. Plus it has a CO2 sensor and shutoff built in. So if it's in a location where those build up it will auto shutdown anyway.

Mostly looking for tips on who has done this and what type inlet box they used and why.

As long as you are 1-2 feet away from data/telecom connections you're fine. Most likely wouldn't matter if you're closer. The thing you don't want to do is run them parallel to each other in close proximity over any distance.

You mentioned hooking up to your existing NG line. Check the generator manual and find out how many CFH of NG it needs to run. You may need a bigger pipe and meter to run the generator and whatever else you already use NG for.

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Originally posted by trapper189:
You mentioned hooking up to your existing NG line. Check the generator manual and find out how many CFH of NG it needs to run. You may need a bigger pipe and meter to run the generator and whatever else you already use NG for.

This is definitely a consideration. It can be solved though either larger piping to a manifold or use of a split pressure system. A 8kw generator is not a super huge load so if he's going to the meter than it shouldn't matter. Where I live meter upgrades are free since they assume you will be buying more NG.

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Originally posted by IntrepidTraveler:
To reiterate what's implied in the last two posts, you NEED some sort of transfer switch. You do NOT want power back-feeding into the grid. This is unsafe. Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know.

This.

After considering running my own orange receptacles etc, I just had an electrician come and do a transfer switch for $550 and now it’s both code, and fool-proof.

Wasn’t part of the failure of the TX grid a failure of the NG supplies? I’ve never liked the idea of relying on the gas company to supply the fuel for a generator. It’s convenient, but you’re still relying on something offsite.

Being those are my concerns, I went with a diesel generator. A Kubota powered H rated generator at 14.5 KW. Diesel has a whole other set of problems, but at least it’s entirely self sufficient during an emergency. I keep about 200 gallons on hand. I installed it using an interlock. Easy to install.

Have plenty of NG supply. Went to tankless WH and we had more than enough to feed that without upgrading. Home is fairly new so that's no problem.

You'll have enough to run the generator or the water heater for sure.

As others mentioned, figure where you want the generator while in use, and place your outlet there.

Much better to run proper fixed wiring as much as possible, and keep the flexible extension from the generator to the outlet a short as possible. Yes, they make 25 foot cords. But the 6 foot is better over time (and a lot easier to deal with for you as well).

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Originally posted by XinTX:
Plus it has a CO2 sensor and shutoff built in. So if it's in a location where those build up it will auto shutdown anyway.

Mostly looking for tips on who has done this and what type inlet box they used and why.

A CO2 sensor will not do you any good, a CO sensor on the other hand.........yes, I know what you meant.