$.02 worth based on some recent used Outback observations:

1. Unless you're just trying to get the absolute very best MPG, go with the 256 HP 3.6R 6 cyl. You have a larger engine working less hard, and the MPG isn't that different/less than the 4 cyl. And head gaskets are less of an issue. It's also got more 'pep in its step' when driven (more fun). Remember, you're powering 4 wheels, all the time. It also avoids the CVT transmission I believe. And it's less 'soccer mom-ish (no offense to soccer moms)'. 3.6R's only make up something like ~10% of production IIRC.

2. Go with the 3.6R (2010 or newer) for fuel. The previous 3.0 6-cylinder requires Premium, where the 3.6R runs on regular.

3. The 2010 or newer were also the start of the newer, more 'crossover' boxier body style, which is considerably larger (~30%) particularly in the rear seat...if you've got older kids (teenagers) or plan to have other adults in the back seat, they'll thank you for it.

4. Depending on your region, increase your budget...to get a 'good' one, you're more in the $15K+ range (yes, they hold their value).

5. Shop/wait for a 'good' one...the lower the miles the better, one owner if possible, clean Car Fax. Subaru owners generally keep and drive them, so under 100K mileage might take a little time to find.

6. With CarGurus, Carfax, USAA.com if you're a Veteran, and some of the others, you can set up email notifications for ones that pop up in your area so you can get a heads up. Carguru's seems to be the easiest read...most pertinent info right up front.

7. Try and have financing in place before you head to the dealership. It used to be cash-in-hand gave you negotiating power...not so much any more...they want to make $$ of the financing. Knowing your budget in advance with financing cuts down on the dealership games.

8. The Nav system in that range was usually lackluster, CD based and you have to stop the vehicle to adjust.

9. Look for the body molding/door ding guards, or request as part of purchase. ~$400 at the stealership, ~$150 if you do yourself, and fairly easy if you buy the kit...comes with templates and instructions.

10. Consider a pre-purchase vehicle inspection service...if they help you avoid a lemon, they're well worth the money...good ones aren't 'emotionally invested' (more objective) and with today's modern cars, unless you're a full time mechanic, there's lots of stuff most folks don't know.

11. Consider a aftermarket warranty, you can usually finance, but read the fine print...many don't cover 'gaskets.'


Decent 'Buying a used Outback' pointers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o-OszyddtE

Good review:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwlK7uQaCJM

Despite some of the naysayers who take them far past their intended usage (serious offroader areas where they're getting up on 3 wheels, etc) they're solid vehicles...I used to travel a mountain pass daily and only ever recall seeing one on the side of the road. Believe their owner loyalty is second only to Ford.

Good luck.

Boss

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Boss1,

I recently replaed my 2012 Outback at 140k miles. I maintained the car and had the timing belt done at 100k miles along with the water pump and all the other belts and hoses. At 140k my CVT is fine, but I had it flushed every 50k miles. What made me decide to get a new car was the cyinder head gasket went, and the overheating took the heads wiht it. The newer Outbacks have an actual temp gauge, but mine has the idiot light. The problem is the 2.5 runs on the warm side, and by the time the light comes on the motor is already too hot. Given the magnitude of the repair, I would not buy a used Outback without an actual temp gauge. Other than that, I haven't spent a dime on anything other than scheduled maintenance, although it does seem to go through brakes a bit quicker than other cars.

Thanks so much for the feedback everyone. You've helped me refine and update my search a bit.

You guys are amazing.

I usually get the largest engine available but when I bought my 2017 Outback, I drove both the 4 and the 6 and thought the 4 was peppier around town. I was able to tow a 3 seater jet ski with no sweat. I change my own oil, so I liked the fact the the oil filter is on top of the engine with the 4 cyl, underneath on the 6. Most of my driving is interstate and it's very capable. Might be different if I had 5 adults in the car but it's just the two of us.

My 2013 Outback drank a qt of oil every 1,000 miles. Some how Subaru said that was normal and within spec. I would not go with A 2013.

While Subaru’s have some cars with great longevity, I won’t by another for this poor handling of the oil issue with mine.