If I was younger I would have gone with a metal roof.

The average life span of a properly installed metal roof is 50 years.

At my age, I would not see the ROI. It costs substantially more where I live and the resale value does not increase for a metal roof.

I had a concrete shingled roof that lasted 110 years. The nails were failing and some of the tiles had cracked.

I went with top-of-the-line asphalt shingles.

We should fail at about the same time.

Thank you ridewv for the explanation. Both my brother and father are having new houses built and are planning to go with metal, so it really helps to know why you aren’t happy with yours. Good installation is key.

My dad is actually looking at the same style ribbed roof you have. Galvalum is silver. If you want a color, the paint is applied over the Galvalum which is probably what you have. I’ve seen painted roofs fade and not fade. A close neighbor has a shiny, bright, red roof that’s as shiny and bright as it was the day it was installed almost 20 years ago and it faces south even. I’d take that up with the company that made your steel panels.

Between my dad and I, we have three houses, two detached garages, and a shed with metal roofs. Dad’s house has a blue standing seam roof that’s 21 years old and hasn’t faded. Mine is 5v galvalum, 17 years old, and has those umbrella head screws you mentioned. The other roofs are 40+ years old. All but mine survived direct hit from Charley and Ian with no damage. Mine was installed after Charley.

I don’t know about hail, we don’t get hail like other places.

I’d get another opinion. Only the two car garage has purlins because it doesn't have sheathing. The others have plywood and not OSB though. I’ve never seen 2x4 purlins on a sheathed roof down here. Between Charlie and Ian, I’ve seen hundred of shingle roofs replaced with metal.

Technically, a metal roof is much better.
I would always prefer that over shingles unless there is an issue with price, cosmetics or deed restrictions.

Yes paint over Galvalume, unfortunately I'm pretty sure that's not what I got 21 years ago. This roofer didn't believe so either because some panels are starting to rust at the edges. He also mentioned that he's never seen the little steel screws used for roofing where he came from, but noticed those fasteners were used a lot around here. He also mentioned screws get a pretty good bite in plywood (better than OSB) as long as the plywood is at least 11/16", but he's never had a screw back out when screwing into solid wood so insists that purlins are the way to go.

I did have a similar rib roof put on another house on the property 3 years ago but it IS Galvalume and was installed over 1" purlins, over the existing metal roof that was 80+ years old. The metal being sold now is nothing like that old metal roofing. I was told a lot of that old metal roofing came from a mill in Weirton WV that made it from some alloy of tin with lead in it. The thick gauge standing seam panels were soldered together then coated with good paint which also had lead. After so many years you'd just re-coat it. If you didn't it'd eventually begin to rust but very slowly, and because the metal was so thick, even when neglected it'd take many years to rust through. Even the better standing seam roofing now is much lighter steel, more akin to that used on a car body, and is basically good for as how long the paint lasts.

Metal definitely has some advantages, especially standing seam which doesn't utilize the exposed fasteners. If I lived where there were high winds or the likelihood of forest fire, I'd do metal and probably bite the bullet and go standing seam. Also, according to my roofer, you don't have the problem with water backing up under shingles from ice dams. He recently moved here from Erie PA and a lot of people up there experienced that kind of leaking from the heavy snow and ice they get so because of that they are getting away from shingles. LOL now you all and I am talking myself back to metal.

Our SE Wyoming home has Malarkey architectural shingles. It’s been on almost 8 years and has withstood several serious hailstorms. A few years back, somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 the roofs in our area had to be replaced. We’ve had insurance adjusters climb up on our rroof at least three times, and the roof has received a thumbs-up every time.

Hail is a pretty rare occurrence here and I can't ever recall any damaging hail, but it's a possibility. Thankfully wind damage and fire risk is very low.
About 7 years ago I did have a claim from snow when 20" of the stuff was on the roof. When it started to melt the plastic snow guards couldn't hold it and the whole mass slid off shearing off the snow guards and vent stacks in the process. That's a problem I wouldn't have with shingles and when brought up the roofer said they only use metal guards because plastic ones degrade from sun and become brittle.

I found this image which contrasts the cheap screws my builder used compared to ZXL wood binder screws the roofer uses.

Did the builder cut the panels to length on site and then install the cut edges exposed? Cut edges should be installed under the ridge cap. Also, the right cutting tools, like shears, help maintain the edge's corrosion resistance. On the other hand, using something like a circular saw will melt the galvalum at the cut and leave the edges raw.

A couple of the overlapped side edges are rusting as well as cut, notched, ends.

To answer your question the panels were ordered to length but they had to cut some in places. Obviously they should have primed any cut edge, but knowing this "crew" I'm sure they did not bother.

I installed the rib roofing on my house about 20 years ago and have also noticed some of the screws on the side that has osb under it backing out.... I actually ordered 24 gage metal for ours and this required pre-drilling holes before putting the screws in.....

In my job I go on roofs most days and it is not unusual to see metal ones not installed right. Usually not enough screws or the overlay backwards.

Friend in Florida when he built his house... put down horizontal 2x4s on the sub roof every 2ft with 1.5" foam between them and then installed the metal screwing into the 2.4s.

Moved into a new house a few years ago. Had hail storm that destroyed the roof. Replaced with Owen Corning. Had another storm a month after. No damage the second round. Was told by my roofer the OC shingles were way better than the one that the contractor put on the house...to save 'cost'.

Thanks Beachhead and Tx, it's OC Duration or rib Galvalume metal......