I'm having the 22 year old metal roof on my house and garage replaced and am going with shingles. The roofer generally uses Owen Corning 30 year architectural but will use any brand I want. He feels all the 30 year shingles are similar and should last at least 20 years but probably not 30. The reason he uses OC is simply because they have a reinforced nailing strip which some others do not. Is there anything better in the way of shingles?

I just had my house roof done and the roofer used the O-C shingles specifically because of the nailing strip. He also uses 6 nails per shingle vs. the recommended 4.

Why not stay with a metal roof? Is your decision to use shingles aesthetic?

This a major issue here in FL. Old roof= not likely to obtain insurance. Mine is pushing 17 years and I’m living on borrowed time with my insurer. Neighbor was just told strait up replace it or were cancelling. I have a steeper pitch but same size house and they paid 25k. Roofer suggested a 20 year roof becuase.. Florida and you will replace it inside 20 years. I did not ask them about brand of shingles. Next time I see him I’ll ask.

twenty years for a metal roof, what is wrong with it?

The roofer is probably more important than the shingles used. I'm having the garage, three season house and the house done in spring. Going with 30 year shingles while others are offering 50 year shingles. If I'm still around after 30 years I won't give a rats ass about the roof. Going with a roofer who is the uncle of a close friend. He does large contracting jobs and residential jobs on the side. Came in at a decent price which came in even lower if I pay cash.

quote:

Originally posted by lastmanstanding:
The roofer is probably more important than the shingles used.

Just replaced our shingle roof last month, and this needs to be reinforced.
We went with GAF shingles (for what it’s worth) and are very happy with the result.

Brand of shingles really seems to be a regional thing. GAF is popular around here. As already stated, the installation is of greater importance than the brand. High nails above the nail line is the biggest culprit to a sound roof. Also, be sure they do open or closed/cut valleys. Woven valleys are the worst. Ice/water shield on the perimeters and valleys.

Owen Corning 30 year architectural would be a good choice. 6 nails per shingle would also be my choice if you ever get high winds in your area.

Class 4 impact and wind resistant shingles. A couple years ago they were 15% higher cost to install, but much lower change of damage from wind or hail. Resulted in 20% lower rate with home insurance.

Others here will certainly have more experience than I do, but I own a small company that handles the work on my rental properties as well as the occasional friend or family member.

OC Duration or Certainteed Landmark Pros are our general go to shingles. Some of this depends on color and/or availability. These aren't the highest end options, but are good quality shingles for the price, and are readily available in my area (The Certainteed shingles are manufactured just a few miles from me) My house, my mother's house, and my sister's soon to be new roof are all Landmark Pro with Certainteed's Diamond Deck underlayment.

The quality of your final product is the sum of its components and proper installation. You can have the best shingles in the world, but if corners are cut their useful life will be shortened.

Here in the Midwest we get a lot of hail. I was having a conversation with my supplier about 50 year products for my personal house. They are indeed a better shingle, but he said the odds of a hail storm over a 20 year time window is very high in our area, and that insurance would likely be replacing the roof before it reached the end of life. It was a case of "why spend the money".

In addition to the ice/water shield, you'll also want proper drip and rake metal. If you have roof penetrations like b vent, it would also be a good time to consider replacing all of it. Maybe it's my OCD, but looking at a brand new roof with something rusty sticking out really bothers me.

Owens Corning Duration seems to be the good middle ground.
We just replaced our roof (thanks hail storm). Insurance would pay for the Oakridge line. I asked our roofer what level we needed. He is a good honest guy and said 1 level up is the duration and if there was a color we liked there is no real reason so go any higher.
Had to pay like $450 out of pocket more for the upgraded materials.
They look very very good.
They replaced 18 year old Owens Corning Oakridge which had held up very nicely. Except for a monster hailstorm. A hail storm that got many roof replaced and totaled a number of our brand new company vehicles.
So I was happy to go with OC again.

I went through the roofing exercise this past summer.

I looked at Owens-Corning, largely on account of that nailing strip. Then on the advice of our own smlsig, I found our local GAF Master Elite installer. Going that route got me a better warranty (50 year product, 25 year workmanship, backed by GAF itself). I was also able to negotiate with the installer a little bit on the timing and pricing, and came out with a better schedule and a price that was within a couple hundred of what the O-C contractor had offered.

GAF contractor link

Link to previous thread

I love these warranties. I have never seen shingles last 50 years. Generally 20 or 25 years.

Owens probably has a similar grade but I’m not familiar with it. GAF top tier are called HDZ and have the same warranty. If installed by a certified GAF roofer, they have no maximum wind rating so if the shingles get ripped off by wind, they replace them.

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
I love these warranties. I have never seen shingles last 50 years. Generally 20 or 25 years.

Same. Lucky if they last 10 because of hail and divots. My last shingle change, I asked my long time roofer about the longer guarantee shingles, etc. He laughed and said something to the effect of “Those longer rated shingles still get divots. You honestly think you won’t get hail for 10, 15, 20 years, etc”. I asked what he had on his own home and he said the lower rated, age wise, shingles.

I think this is the first time I've ever heard of someone replacing a metal roof with a shingle roof... It's always the other way around.

Why did the metal roof only last 22 years? Was it just thin tin?

Thanks for sharing your thoughts guys, I think I'll just go with OC Duration.

Regarding why does the the metal need replaced and why replace metal with shingles are good questions. The roof was put on when the house was built in 2002 and I thought I was getting a Galvalume product but I don't believe I did because the finish started dulling down within 10-12 years.
At the time the good standing seam, metal roofing was going to cost 3X what the cheaper, exposed fastener, rib roofing, that I went with. Most metal that's used around here is the rib stuff so I figured it must be ok and went with it. Critical is the type of screw used, how they are put in, and what they are put in to, and all three were not right in my case.

What's happened is the screws are rusting from being scratched from the drill socket drivers. Also many are backing out from the neoprene washers. My first thought was to have all the screws replaced, then clean and paint the roof, so I found a roofer who specializes in metal (but uses shingles as well) to look it over.



He said it should not have been applied directly to the 3/4" OSB because screws don't hold that well in it, they should only go into wood and he would cover the OSB with strips of 2 x 4 purlins to fasten to. Also he uses larger aluminum screws with an umbrella head which completely covers the neoprene washer to shield them from the sun. He only uses Galvalume roofing, so with this in mind I had him price out replacing it as stated with rib metal, also with standing seam, and then also with shingles. The house itself is only 26' x 30' but then we add the 2' overhangs, bump outs, 6' x 20' porch, 10' x 26' and 10' x 16' porches, and a 24' x 36' garage/carport. This image shows most of it other than the large porches are on the far corner. Anyway the ribbed metal came to $14.5K, shingles $13K, and standing seam (because of all the trim pieces) was going to be over $40K




One thing I didn't like with the metal was the additional 1 1/2" thick eves (because of adding purlins) particularly the gable ends. Also the 3 year old shop which is across the drive has shingles and it'd be nice if everything matched. I don't get high winds because the pine stand on the west behind the shop blocks much of it.



I can still change my mind but I'm pretty sure I'm going with shingles.

quote:

Originally posted by vthoky:
I went through the roofing exercise this past summer.

I looked at Owens-Corning, largely on account of that nailing strip. Then on the advice of our own smlsig, I found our local GAF Master Elite installer. Going that route got me a better warranty (50 year product, 25 year workmanship, backed by GAF itself). I was also able to negotiate with the installer a little bit on the timing and pricing, and came out with a better schedule and a price that was within a couple hundred of what the O-C contractor had offered.

GAF contractor link

Link to previous thread

Thanks vthokey. Yes look into an elite certified installer for whatever brand you like. We used GAF for over 30 years and never had an issue. Most shingles no days are referred to as Lifetime vs. 30 year architectural for what it’s worth.