The side of my truck had an unfortunate meeting with a concrete pillar, the other day. Fortunately, the damage is entirely contained on the driver side door, didn’t extend to the cab, or forward to the fender. Just the door. I took it to a local shop for an estimate. The shop has great reviews, literally five stars on yelp. Also found a number of other independent recommendations for this shop. However, I am still shocked that the quote I received is about $2000. I know nothing of autobody repair work, but I didn’t think something like this would cost over $1000. Below is a picture of the damage, can anybody weigh in?
Is the door going to be replaced with an OEM door? I would take it to a couple of other shops and get written estimates. Are you turning in a claim or paying out of pocket?
Posts: 17700 | Location: Stuck at home | Registered: January 02, 2015
Probably in the ballpark for bumping, metal finish, replacing the outside door handle and painting. Materials have gone crazy over the last few years, paint prices make me gasp. Still need to allow for the lower molding and the door nameplate.
A doorshell alone, I’d have to guess about the 1k mark alone.
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Posts: 8501 | Location: Livingston County Michigan USA | Registered: August 11, 2002
I worked in my brother's body shop while in college, but this was a couple of decades ago. Pricing sounds about right factoring inflation to the price I had in mind. Without itemized prices, I can't said if it is fair price for how they are planning to fix it - OEM or aftermarket replacement, salvage parts replacement, door skin replacement, or fixing the damage. My concern with fixing is the edge line immediately below the the window.
Estimates are pulled from a standardized labor and parts manual or software. The estimate should be be within 10-15% for the same method of repair.
*edited for additional info.
Posts: 1095 | Location: Fort Worth, Texas | Registered: August 11, 2010
I just did the same thing and got a quote for 1890 mine was a little worse but all in one place.
I figured it would be 850 and I would get screwed at 1100.
I guess we’re both wrong.
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Posts: 5210 | Location: Boca Raton, FL The Gunshine State | Registered: July 30, 2002
Where it becomes a little spendier is the dents are on existing bends or creases in the body. That makes it more difficult than just suction cupping them out. Then the sanding and painting and ....
Yeah, 2K is pretty close. You might be able to just order an already painted whole new OEM door for cheaper.
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Posts: 21000 | Location: Montana | Registered: November 01, 2010
You can look on https://car-part.com/ for a recycled door of the same color and good condition to save on the P&B labor. With some luck, you'll find one in great condition that does not require any paint correction for clear coat defects. This should not be anywhere close to the 15.5 hrs quoted and your door has less chance of wind noise since it has not had body work done to it - my concern with the damage close to the window. The trade off is the paint hue will be off due to different sun fading.
Posts: 1095 | Location: Fort Worth, Texas | Registered: August 11, 2010
My 34 month old Ranger was tagged in a parking lot when someone left less obvious damage to the rear bed panel and drove away. I was going to cover it myself. When they added in the tail light unit the $900 addition totaling more than I used to pay for my entire cars, it made it worth talking to my uninsured driver claim. Went to a carrier recommended shop & still was looking at $3K+.