I say seized instead of stuck because....

I have bent two regular oil filter wrenches. I cracked a strap style, has a nylon strap with a 1/2" square bar the strap is attached to. Using a breaker bar. This damn filter won't budge.

I don't want to do the screw driver thing. Right now I can add oil and drive it to a shop if needed. If I poke holes in filter then it's a tow bill.

I've also sprayed penetrating oil around filter gasket area. No luck.

My last resort is a KD tool that is a wide steel band that you use a 1/2" drive on. But that I have to order no one stocks locally.

Any other suggestions? I don't won't a shop bill or tow. And I also don't want to f'up the oil adaptor plate either.

Thanks for any suggestions or help.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rangeme101,

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...0601935/m/4200068424


Check the linked thread, the answer may be there.

May I ask who put it on??

Have you tried a cap style wrench? I've never had a filter on my 7.3L that the cap style wrench wouldn't remove. But I have always used the Motorcraft FL 1995 filters. I dislike filter wrenches that can crush a filter.

I had one tight on my 7.3 one time. I ended up twisting the can pretty good but it came loose. This is the wrench I have

https://m.sears.com/craftsman-...table/p-02820523000P

I used to change my oil in my 2002 f250 diesel, I would change it one time and the next I would let one of the quick change places do it and do a lube job. Once they put the filter on so hard that the metal of the filter ripped when I tried to remove it. I got it towed back to that same place and told them that they put it on too tight and unless they got it off and did a free oil change that I was going to go to the local paper with the story. They paid for the oil change and the tow to prevent the bad publicity.

quote:

Originally posted by dwright1951:
I used to change my oil in my 2002 f250 diesel, I would change it one time and the next I would let one of the quick change places do it and do a lube job. Once they put the filter on so hard that the metal of the filter ripped when I tried to remove it. I got it towed back to that same place and told them that they put it on too tight and unless they got it off and did a free oil change that I was going to go to the local paper with the story. They paid for the oil change and the tow to prevent the bad publicity.

So how did they get it off?

I've got a huge pair of channel locks i use on my Cummins. Be sure to grab as close to the threaded end as possible. I really don't ever advocate the put a hole in it method. Two pairs of channel locks may help.

Usually a super stuck filter is because the last one was put on without oil on the gasket. I would buy a high quality filter wrench that has plenty of dimples. NAPA usually has high quality filter wrenches.

I'd just take it to a shop. You already attempted to remove it and couldn't. An oil change is pretty darn cheap these days having a shop do it. Rather than buying other tools and spending more time on it, just get it changed by someone else who deals with stuff like that every day.

If nothing else works, use two strap wrenches 180 degrees apart, like a "T" handle. Or one strap wrench and one endcap wrench, again 180 degrees apart. Not so much energy will be wasted pulling the filter over sideways, and more will go into unscrewing it.

I have a giant pair of channel lock pliers I've used to remove a couple of stuck filters. You could also try a chisel between the filter and the rubber gasket to break the seal. That's most likely what is making it stuck.

There are some special Channel lock pliers made to remove oil filters. I have two pairs, and would definitely resort to those. They come in three sizes, probably buy the largest.

I did the oil change. I have a few decades of doing my own on small to large engines. I only hand tighten and lube the gasket. so I don't know whats going on with this one.

I am using an Amsoil extended service filter with their heavy duty synthetic oil. this is the first time I have ever had an oil filter issue, ever. so I am totally at a lost here on why it acts like it is seized. I am going to call Amsoil tomorrow just to see if this is something they have come across before on their filters or this particular filter/engine combo for any suggestions.

And I am going to call a local shop and the local ford dealer tomorrow. see if one is willing to get it loose and then I will drive back home to change. both are under 5 miles from the house. we shall see. if they have to do some cut it up and air chisel the base loose I have the oil and filter to put in at the shop. man I really hope it doesn't come to that though, the air chisel thing.

I read through the suggested thread from above. also looked at link from sears above. the problem with the bottom claw one like above, the channel lock/plier style or chain wrench is I am afraid they will all just collapse the filter or tear it. like I said it wont freaking budge with a 18" or more breaker bar. so I am not even sure if any other style wrench is going to work. the only one I would like to try is the all steel wide medal band one with 1/2" drive hole sold by KD tools or GearWrench, but I have to order those. so I will see what the shops think and go from there.

and I cant try the end cap style. the filter from Amsoil and the Ford FL-1995 replacement filter are "slick", they don't have the "finger" notches at the base of the filter.

thanks for all the suggestions.

If you take it to someone to break the oil filter loose, just let them change the damn oil and provide the oil and filter.....geez, it's not that expensive, even on a diesel. How much time are you going to waste with this. To do it yourself costs 80% of what you'd pay to have someone just do the entire oil change.

Jimmy...what time do you open???

I just checked the FL 1995 on my garage shelf. You're right. I have one of those big strap type wrenches that I hate for those, because they're unfluted. I was thinking of my suburban and the cap style wrench. The '01 Suburban that has a filter the size of a small coffee cup in a damn near inaccessible spot if you can't use a cap wrench. Wish I had a better solution than what has been suggested already. Good luck.

I use only Motocraft. That said I have never had an issue using a metal strap style to remove one. That's maybe 1000 oil changes over my years of 7.3 ownership. Some have been a bit of effort but nobody that I would consider really stuck. When in trouble I always make sure the filter housing is totally clean via a brake cleaner spray.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
Jimmy...what time do you open???

I do oil changes on yachts.....big diesels. If I had someone call me up to drive over to their yacht and break free the oil filter only, so they could do it themselves, I'd tell them to go fly a kite. If they provided their own filter and oil for me to do the oil change, and they want to spend hours of their time driving around picking up 50 gallons of oil and disposing of 50 gallons of oil,I'd think they're crazy, and I'd do the oil change and charge them for my time......there's only a 10% discount on those items and quite frankly they're going to pay the same price for them as I would charge them.....Think I want to spend 1/2 a day of my time at the dealer, loading up 10 5 gallon buckets of oil and all the filters, then lugging it 100'-500' to the boat, then onto and off the boat, and then the same amount to a disposal facility to make $100-200 on the parts. no way.

I've seen owners of yachts worth over a $1 million, that burn 150 gallons of diesel to go 30 miles, spend 1/2 a day of their time picking up parts to save $20, and just shake my head.

And OTOH saw an owner pay a mechanic to drive 5 hours round trip and spend $600 to have that mechanic change one bad shark bite style water fitting and just shake my head as well. Meanwhile he spent 10 minutes wrapping the bad fitting with electricians tape to try to slow down the leak while he was down at the boat using it. LOLOL

I think the Ford dealer charges $89 to do an oil change on a power stroke and provides all of the parts.....so what's the OPs time worth considering he already wasted time and lots of agrivation trying to do it himself once already.

What I would be saying (not to be mean) is yup use an aftermarket filter and all will not be good. Why anyone does that I have not a clue.
I race stuff and whenever there is an incident with oil on the track 99.9++++% of the time an aftermarket filter is involved.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
If you take it to someone to break the oil filter loose, just let them change the damn oil and provide the oil and filter.....geez, it's not that expensive, even on a diesel. How much time are you going to waste with this. To do it yourself costs 80% of what you'd pay to have someone just do the entire oil change.

Obviously you've never owned a diesel, he is using Amsoil synthetic so an oil change with 17 quarts of synthetic oil is probably around $200.