what's the GVW of the trailer? And what is the design? does it have anything in the front overhanging the hitch other than maybe a storage or bed area, or is is a full LQ type?

A quick looks shows that you have about 2700lb of payload available . it varies a little with trim level and if you are on the hairy edge go get your truck weighed which is the best starting plan.
A quick calculation is take the gvw of the trailer x15% (like 12,5Kx.15=1875) subtract that from the 2700 and you get 825 # left for everything else in the truck. others suggest bigger numbers but I have had no problem getting horse trailers in the arnge of 15%. It would be the best strategy if you can get the mfg. to tell you the empty number of hitch weight or just go measure it and you will know exactly what you are dealing with.

Trailer is 8’8” living quarters and a 3 slant horse in rear. Front overhang is queen sized bed area. Trailer is 9000# empty and I calculate about 12,500# full at max. Just looked up some more charts and I see my truck is about 6500# and GVWR is 10,000# so wouldn’t that make my payload about 3500#? That would mean I have about 1,625# for all else in truck, which is plenty by FAR.

one quick question, did you get the payload number with the diesel?

Pin weight is the weight a gooseneck/5th wheel trailer puts on the truck at the hitch.

Call the manufacturer and ask them what it is.

The weight of the truck varies with as built options and is subtracted from the truck’s GVWR (10,000lbs in your case) to get the payload your truck can carry. The as built weight or payload is shown on the sticker on the front driver’s side door jamb. Add to the weight or subtract from the payload any additional equipment/stuff you have added: toolboxes, hitch, air bags, fuel etc.

I’d pay the $25 or $30 and get it weighed at a CAT scale. They have them at just about any truck stop. It will give you the actual weight on your front axles, rear axles, and trailer axles. If you do it right, you can unhitch your trailer and get another measurement. The difference between you hitched and unhitched rear axle weights is the pin weight of the trailer. So is the difference between the hitched and in hitched weights of the trailer.

My 2015 long bed, crew cab, 4x4, diesel weighs 8,000 pounds. I know your truck has an aluminum body, but I doubt it weighs 6,500 pounds. Look at the sticker I mentioned earlier for a starting point. Then get it weighed. Also, what does the sticker say for tire pressure on the rears?

Just because you see people doing it, does not mean they are doing it right. Think of all the nutty drivers you’ve seen and all the nutty things you’ve seen them do. That doesn’t suddenly change when you throw trucks and trailers into the equation.

You should read this:
2020 Ford Towing Guide It’s got color pictures.

It's a lot of information that isn't obvious when looking at the manufacturer's published towing numbers. I was shocked to learn that the trailer weight wasn't the real limitation. It's not a lie either, the truck will tow that maximum weight, just not with my wife, kids, the dog, etc. on board at the same time. It's like small airplanes, sure it flys x number of miles with full fuel and sure it will fly with 6 people on board, but it can't do both at the same time.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: trapper189,

My payload is not on the sticker just the GAWR and GVWR. I looked up the 6.7L turbo diesel 4x4 short bed crew cab and it says 6500#.

This is the sticker that lists your payload:
.

That particular sticker is from a 2020 diesel, short bed, crew cab, 4x4 F250 Lariat. Subtracting the 2,226 from the 10,000 GVWR give the as built weight of the truck at 7,774 pounds. That’s probably close to what your truck weighs.

Interesting, that payload info is not on my sticker. Maybe the truck weighs more then and the charts I’m finding online are false. It makes it hard to know what’s right and wrong info out there that’s for sure, but the sticker on a similar truck should be more accurate I’d think.

With payload at 2226# then I’d be unable to even have all my family in the truck while pulling, which seems not right. If I’m able to pull per Ford specs up to 14,700# via gooseneck, how in the heck would keeping away from that top end number by almost 2000# still get me such a low number left over to not get even 3-4 people let alone any gear?

Per Kelly Blue Book, which I thought was a pretty reputable source, the specs I found on another website seem to line up with what I thought originally. It’s a big difference if my truck is 6500 pounds versus 7700 pounds.

When I wrote my note above I looked at several sources but picked my answer from the Ford site (the camper section if it matters) that suggests your truck probably weighs 7200lb.
After all these messages its pretty easy to just go get it weighed and then you can stop speculating. I'm guessing the KBB numbers are for the std. 6.2 motor and just a misprint as I have never seen a superduty with a diesel that light (and I have 3 of them but of course not yours exactly in configuration).

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
Okay now I’m a bit confused again. My truck is a 2020 F250 crew cab 4x4 with 6.75’ bed and it is a 6.7L turbo diesel with the 3.31 and gooseneck factory installed. Does NOT have the high capacity tow package. Based on VIN lookup, charts review, and a call to Ford, it’s rated for 14,700#. My GVWR is 10,000#. GAWR front axel is 5990# and rear is 6340#. I’m not sure of the weight of the truck itself (maybe around 6500#???) and I’m not sure what pin weight means?

After some deliberating and crunching numbers, I have decided that I am going to go with the smaller of the two trailers I was thinking about. It’s not that much smaller as it’s only 2 feet less in length though 700 pounds lighter making it 9000# (dry weight). Loaded up with a couple horses and gear (water tanks, saddles, feed, bedding, tools, etc.,) I am looking now at being in the 12,500# to just under 12,800# max. That’s about 2000# off the max rating of 14,700#, but again I don’t know how much the pin weight is and what that means and I don’t know how the truck weight affects it all. I know that with my family and our gear in the truck itself we would be an extra 550-600# max.

I feel like it should work fine with this trailer as I’ve seen many 250’s towing similar sized rigs though I hate to even come close to over loading so that’s why I inquired on here.

250/2500 series trucks run into issues with the GVWR, as you've seen, especially pulling a 5th wheel. GVWR is only 10K, and it wouldn't surprise me if your truck weights upwards of 8K with the diesel, meaning 2k of cargo capacity.

Of course, that cargo capacity includes stuff in the bed, passengers, and especially pin hitch weight. As you've noticed, you run out of GVWR with a heavy 5th wheel.

Will it do it? sure. Will people tell you they've towed over their vehicle's weight limits multiple times without issue? Sure. Are they responsible if something happens? Nope.

I went through all this with my 2500 GMC. Same issue, diesel, 10000 GVWR. I kept my 5th wheel small, no matter how many people tell me they tow over weight without issues. And got everything weighed before I picked my trailer.

I was surprised at how much the truck weighed.

The Kelley Blue Book information does not allow you to select which engine you have. The weights that site lists are for the smallest engine which weighs 800 pounds less than the diesel and it’s extra emissions equipment. The weights also don’t include options. Heck, the 5th wheel/gooseneck package weighs 100 pounds on its own. The frame crossmember for the puck system is a beast, plus the gooseneck ball and safety chain hooks. That site says my truck weighs 6,718 pounds. Ford says it weighs 7,905 pounds and the CAT scale says it weighs 8,000, but that was with the crossmember that I installed.

Speaking of which, you have that 5th wheel/gooseneck package, correct? There will be five holes, four of the same size in about a 1’x2’ rectangle with a fifth larger one in the middle of the rectangle, in the middle of the bed directly over the axle.

There’s two stickers. The one has the GVWR and GAWR. The other is the one in the picture above and your truck has that sticker as well. Front driver’s side door jamb, maybe on the edge of the door itself. I just checked, and both are on the door jamb on my truck.

Also, what tire pressures does it list?
What size wheels do you have, 17”, 18”, or 20”?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: trapper189,

18” wheels, 60# front/65# rear cold pressure recommended.

You guys were right I found out my payload is actually just under 2200# so that must mean my truck is about 7800 ish #. This is sort of deflating as with the trailer hooked up I now don’t even have weight left over for more than 2 people and that’s even without any baggage. So not sure what to do. May have to scale back trailer again or would have to get a different truck with better payload and at least same towing capacity.

Don’t think moving up 2K # in trailers would end up being a no go.

The next question is: What is the difference between and F250 and a SRW F350 that get 1,000lbs more payload?

I don’t know the answer for that for your truck, but it maybe similar to the 2011-2016s.

1. 80psi in the rear tires (doesn’t apply to 17” wheels)
2. Heavier rear springs (at least 3,600lbs) and shocks to match
3. A 4” spacer blocks between the rear axle and springs instead of a 2” one.
4. Possibly frame mounted brackets that a top overload spring engages under load.

Both have the same frame, axles, brakes, engines, transmissions, etc.

The F250 exists because some states have rules that treat pickup trucks with GVWR over 10,000lbs differently than those 10,000lbs and under. In fact, that’s also the sole reason the F250 has a 9,900lb GVWR option package; the wording in some states is 10,000lbs and over.

What some people do with their F250s is change out the parts listed above for the F350 versions. There’s pages upon pages on the internet discussing the legal implications of doing so if you exceed the numbers on the stickers.

Like I said, I don’t know if it applies to the 2017 and newer F250/350s. I do know that Ford has a second axle option in addition to the Sterling that was the only axle used on the 2011-2016 F250/SRW F350. The new axle is used for lower gearing, I believe 4:10 and 4:30.

This another one of those subjects I don’t want to know about, but was forced to learn. When I started looking for truck, I was thinking an F150 would be fine.

Last thought: pin weight/tongue weight is measured, not calculated. It can be calculated, but it’s not a simple multiply some percentage by a weight.

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
18” wheels, 60# front/65# rear cold pressure recommended.

You guys were right I found out my payload is actually just under 2200# so that must mean my truck is about 7800 ish #.

I'd agree with your number. I have a 2004 Chevy 2500HD Crew cab, 8 foot bed, with a Duramax. I was on a scale a few weeks ago with a full tank of fuel and me (230#). I have an aluminum toolbox with about 200# of crap in it. I weighed in at 7762. This was without the B&W gooseneck hitch & ball which I added since I've been on that scale.