quote:

Originally posted by KevH:
I would have said don't use water on a gun. There isn't any reason to.

...but since you did, use a hairdryer on warm to dry it and then lightly oil anything metal to prevent rust.

Soap & Hot Water is also used to remove Cosmoline from firearms, AND to clean firearms after shooting Corrosive Ammo...There are certainly reasons!

Clean them any way you see fit. Cook 'em, bake 'em, maybe the dish washer or, throw them in the washer but, for modern firearms, there are reasons why we are privvy to a whole industry of gun care products. Use the proper chems to clean and lube. Wipe out from inside the excess and assemble the pistol. Use Q Tips in the tight spots. Hell, you can clean a firearm to perfection with simple spray and liquid lubes like WD40 or Breakfree. There are others. Just use proper lubes after you clean.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:

How not to Dry off your Polymer Pistol

Clearly, this guy's problem is that he can't follow instructions. He set the oven to 400°.

Martha Stewart's recipe calls for 350°:

Even though I firmly support the 2nd Amendment ...that picture of the Poly gun is a prime example of why some people should not own a gun... or probably drive a car or vote even.....

quote:

Originally posted by D_Steve:
Late by 1 second
Electric hair dryer should work nicely.

This is what I would recommend as well if you are really worried about it.

170° or even higher, say up to 250°, won't harm the metal parts. But not all parts of a gun are metal. Grips, if removable, are plastic or wood. The tubes in fiber optic or the ampoules in night sights would be vulnerable, so if your gun has those, leave the slide out. Even an assembled frame might have plastic parts.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
In college Used to use Militec1 lube. Supposedly it is heat activated by firing the gun or heating the gun parts up.
We’d coat the metal parts and toss them in the over on low heat.

The stuff actually worked well. My buddy had a Ruger P89 that was just gritty and rough working the slide.
Used Militec1 and tossed it in the oven that P89 slide was smooth and slick afterward.

I've done this with gun parts and bike parts. Wife was not a fan due to the smell, but I liked the results. The one thing I always kind of worried about were springs. If you really have stripped the gun that's not an issue, but I'm not one to mess with the FPPP of a stainless slide P series just to get the firing pin spring out. FWIW I never saw any ill effects from a low temp bake.

quote:

Jesus, A gun that was just given a bath in hot water with soap shouldn't have any bullets in it. So your whole primers thing fear of WD40 shouldn't be an issue, while water left in the crannies of of the gun IS an issue because of rusting possibilities...

While I generally feel WD is over used awful stuff, a crappy lubricant and terrible for many things for a few reasons, and if given any other option I wouldn't use it on a firearms (and not because of primer deactivation). But it IS what I would and have done with a waterlogged one. Flood it with WD and blow it out.


I've probably mentioned it in the past, the story Lee Jurras relayed to us years ago about shipping brass to Norma in Sweden when he was operating the original Super Vel company. Said he needed to ship a some brass to them as a sample or something, all he had on hand was new primed brass. Rather than punch the live primers he filled the cases with WD40 and let them soak to deactivate them. Then dumped them out and they were shipped. He later got and "unhappy" phone call from them about it him shipping quite live/functional primers. I guess once they dried out it was game on again.

First off, what is it? A Glock, 1911, revolver?

I'd simply take it down as far as I could and blow it out with an air compressor. Then spray it liberally with some clp and repeat.
Putting it in an over or using a hair dryer wouldn't be something I would even think to do.

Also, just leave it sitting in an air-conditioned, low humidity, room for a couple hours....

I would think WD followed by a proper oil/lubing would be fine. I personally would go non chlorinated brake cleaner (for any plastic bits) then oil.

quote:

Originally posted by KevH:

quote:

Originally posted by Xer0:
WD40 (Water Displacement 40). It's what it's made for. No need for additional heat! Wipe off excess and lube properly after.

No way. Don't get WD40 anywhere near where a primer would go. WD40 applied to guns have literally cost cops their lives.

The Hall Street shooting in 1969 in Dallas is a good example of where WD40 in guns caused dead primers and thus big problems.

I have personally disproven that old wives tale .

Bring it to Arizona and let it air dry? I have at least one humidifier in each room and two in the two big rooms (excluding bathrooms).

When we got here, we were feeling cold at 77 degrees. Then we learned it was out body moisture evaporating into the air is what was cooling us off in the high temperature.