I completely stripped the new pistol I picked up cause it had about a decade of grease caked in every crevice.

Soaking in some Hot water and dawn dish soap cleaned it up nicely after a couple baths.

To ensure there is not trapped moisture, is it advisable to put metal parts in an oven? Lowest temp is 170. I could leave the door open…

A barrel has to get to 170 when firing so i have no concerns there, nor do i worry about trapped moisture in that part, but what about a frame and slide?

Anyone had good results with simple air drying?

How not to Dry off your Polymer Pistol

170 degrees? The metal will be fine.

Bag o rice?

I'd just use a hair dryer on it. If you think some moisture might be trapped in a small crevice, maybe use some 91% alcohol to pull it out.

Late by 1 second
Electric hair dryer should work nicely.

Have you considered a food dehydrator? I use one to dry out my brass.

quote:

Originally posted by OttoSig:
I completely stripped the new pistol I picked up cause it had about a decade of grease caked in every crevice.

Soaking in some Hot water and dawn dish soap cleaned it up nicely after a couple baths.

To ensure there is not trapped moisture, is it advisable to put metal parts in an oven? Lowest temp is 170. I could leave the door open…

A barrel has to get to 170 when firing so i have no concerns there, nor do i worry about trapped moisture in that part, but what about a frame and slide?

Anyone had good results with simple air drying?

What type of gun and what type of grease?

I would have said don't use water on a gun. There isn't any reason to.

...but since you did, use a hairdryer on warm to dry it and then lightly oil anything metal to prevent rust.

Ah, no.

WD40 (Water Displacement 40). It's what it's made for. No need for additional heat! Wipe off excess and lube properly after.

In college Used to use Militec1 lube. Supposedly it is heat activated by firing the gun or heating the gun parts up.
We’d coat the metal parts and toss them in the over on low heat.

The stuff actually worked well. My buddy had a Ruger P89 that was just gritty and rough working the slide.
Used Militec1 and tossed it in the oven that P89 slide was smooth and slick afterward.

quote:

Originally posted by Xer0:
WD40 (Water Displacement 40). It's what it's made for. No need for additional heat! Wipe off excess and lube properly after.

No way. Don't get WD40 anywhere near where a primer would go. WD40 applied to guns have literally cost cops their lives.

The Hall Street shooting in 1969 in Dallas is a good example of where WD40 in guns caused dead primers and thus big problems.

quote:

Originally posted by KevH:

quote:

Originally posted by Xer0:
WD40 (Water Displacement 40). It's what it's made for. No need for additional heat! Wipe off excess and lube properly after.

No way. Don't get WD40 anywhere near where a primer would go. WD40 applied to guns have literally cost cops their lives.

The Hall Street shooting in 1969 in Dallas is a good example of where WD40 in guns caused dead primers and thus big problems.

Jesus, A gun that was just given a bath in hot water with soap shouldn't have any bullets in it. So your whole primers thing fear of WD40 shouldn't be an issue, while water left in the crannies of of the gun IS an issue because of rusting possibilities. Once the WD40 has displaced all the water, then you lube the gun properly with gun lube which displaces the WD40.. How hard is it to understand or is it more fun to cry about dead primers in gun without any bullets; unless he also washed unsealed cartridges, in which case, water infiltration into the primers is just as likely as any additional WD40.. Or you think the WD40 is going to jump from the gun to his magazines and infiltrate all his unsealed primers? Any thin oil is just as likely to cause dead primers on non-sealed primers as WD40. People often use KROIL on their guns and I can tell you that KROIL and other similar lubricants are much more likely to creep into unsealed primer pockets than WD40 is, but most people don't leave a gallon of lube oozing out of their guns when they put the cartridges/magazines back into them without wiping off excess.

FWIW, when I hit the ocean with my G26, it gets a thorough rinse, dry (usually in a toaster oven on its lowest temp), and then lube/reassembly.

Never a problem in many years and many cycles.

-Rob

As far as I can tell the oil on primer thing is complete urban myth. I love the box of truth and here's his testing https://www.theboxotruth.com/t...-oil-vs-primers.363/

and there are plenty of other tests that show its a complete fallacy.
I tried to research the shooting referenced but that was a dead end on a casual search.
But I'll trust the box of truth myself and not worry at all about this incidental type contact.

What does all this do to night sights? Or plastic glock sights?

quote:

Originally posted by KevH:
I would have said don't use water on a gun. There isn't any reason to.

Getting ready to detail strip a new to me P229 and run it through an ultrasonic. Most of what I’m seeing is advising 1 part Extreme Simple Green Aviation and 10 parts distilled water.

What would you suggest for detail cleaning after completely stripping the pistol?

When I clean my black powder rifle, I use hot soapy water and then hit it with a steam cleaner. The steam gets the metal hot enough that any residual water is gone before I can get the stock back on. Just a thought.

quote:

Originally posted by KevH:


I would have said don't use water on a gun. There isn't any reason to.

Ummm, those that shoot black powder use soap and water to clean our guns.

When I was in the service the PMS card said that soap and water was allowed aboard submarines ( they can’t have aerosolized oil in the atmosphere)

And soap and water was allowed when petroleum products weren’t available.

You blow out the water with compressed air and oil it as usual.