I need to get a utility trailer for my rail speeder I bought. Unfortunately it needs to be 6' wide which eliminates all of the economical 5' wide trailers. I'm likely going to go with this one from Tractor Supply:
6x8' trailer

My question is, unfortunately it doesn't come with anchor points pre-installed. What would you recommend for anchor points? Can I use the ones that slip into the stake pockets like this one? Stake pocket D-ring

Or should I bolt anchor points to the wood floor? The cheaper Carry-ons apparently only have the wood floor nailed down so I was a little concerned about that.

Thank you!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ryan81986,

I don’t see where you could add the D ring post.

What about drilling a 1/2” hole in the middle of the lower angle and bolting on a 3/8” eyelet? Drilling in the middle should not affect the structural integrity of the angle.

If the wood is nailed on, not screwed, I would not trust it for a tie down

What does that rail speeder weigh?

Yep, how much does it weigh?


I'm not seeing any stake pockets on that trailer

I knew I forgot to type something. Going with 1300lbs as a safe bet. Probably less but just in case. And you're right, I thought this model had stake pockets but it apparently doesn't.

If the frame is made out of C channel you can use straps (or chains) with a J shaped hook on the end to hook under the frame edge and up and over.
This is sometimes done on commercial loads so you should be fine.

Another thing I would verify is if the inside width is actually wide enough to load your product. Sometimes the specs can be a little “off”.

I own and use the stake pocket d rings on a car trailer I own, I would have no issues using them on that trailer.

You can't use the rails? Maybe with strap tie-downs rather than chain to keep from scuffing up the paint?

Otherwise, I'd get a few D-rings welded to the frame in strategic locations. Maybe an excuse to buy a welder if there are any ambitions in that direction.

quote:

Originally posted by architect:
You can't use the rails? Maybe with strap tie-downs rather than chain to keep from scuffing up the paint?

Otherwise, I'd get a few D-rings welded to the frame in strategic locations. Maybe an excuse to buy a welder if there are any ambitions in that direction.

Honestly I wasn't sure that's why I was asking. I'm new to all of this so I didn't want to screw up.

Do not use the deck as an anchor point. Go to the frame or rails of the trailer.

quote:

Originally posted by 95flhr:
I own and use the stake pocket d rings on a car trailer I own, I would have no issues using them on that trailer.

Uhhh, there are NO stake pockets on 'that trailer'...In order to use stake pockets, there must first be stake pockets! Just sayin'

The specs on that trailer say max load, 1,275lbs.

A lot can go into buying a trailer. trapper189 mentioned the max load. Another often overlooked item is the quality of the tires. If you plan to pull the trailer at highway speeds, you might want something with better tires.

I prefer a set up with a swivel jack. I it seems those that have a permeant post are always in my way when the trailer is attached and I'm loading things in my SUV. I have a swivel jack that has an interchangeable foot. That way the jack can be 'down' when loading the SUV. (The jack also allows me to use either a wheel or a sand foot. I keep the trailer in the garage so having a wheel on the jack allows me to roll the trailer into the garage when the trailer is loaded.)

While it's probably not a bad choice, you can probably get a lot better trailer for a few hundred more.

PS - Once you have the trailer consider adding one of the devices that assist with lifting the ramp. It's a really nice feature.

quote:

Originally posted by SR:
A lot can go into buying a trailer. trapper189 mentioned the max load. Another often overlooked item is the quality of the tires. If you plan to pull the trailer at highway speeds, you might want something with better tires.

I prefer a set up with a swivel jack. I it seems those that have a permeant post are always in my way when the trailer is attached I load things in my SUV. I have a swivel jack that has an interchangable foot. (Can be a wheel or a sand foot. I keep the trailer in the garage so having a wheel on the jack allows me to roll the trailer into the garage when the trailer is loaded.

While it's probably not a bad choice, you can probably get a lot better trailer for a few hundred more.

PS - Once you have the trailer consider adding one of the devices that assist with lifting the ramp. It's a really nice feature.

I'd go for a block and tackle, or maybe a hand-cranked winch. Useful for loading, raising the ramp, and even moving the trailer itself by hand.

I'd check the weight of the rail speeder car. A quick search says they weigh 3,500 lbs.

Your rail speeder may weigh different, but the trailer looks too light-duty for your purposes.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=...ah0XmAMGDSmSS93KQFV1

Check out these trailers. My dad has one of their dump trailers and it is built like a brick shithouse. I do not know how their utility trailers are first hand, but they look just as sturdy.

I have the same trailer there are multiple anchor points welded to the side of the frame or there should be.
They are hard to see even when zoomed in on the picture but there is angle iron welded on the frame in multiple places.
Also all I’ve the uprights from the frame are angle iron and you can use those as anchor points.

This picture look at the green strap on the front left corner one of the angle brackets is welded there.
There is one on the opposite side should be two more on the rear and OME by the wheel well or light.

Thanks all for the input so far. I checked out that trailer in person and the quality was shit. Which was what I was expecting after reading some reviews online but I wanted to see it in person.

They did have this one which isn't as wide but the speeder should fit by a couple inches. There is also a new one online thats 6x10 for about the same price used in NH. I may look at that one as well. https://www.tractorsupply.com/...-pro-475-00004-bt-fa

Other than that the only other new option is a CAM Superline which is very nice but also $1k more. And as much as I'd love to support a local business as well idk if I can swing that much.
https://camsuperline.com/product/single-axle-utility/

I'd buy used but most of the ones online are incredibly sketchy when I find one that actually fits the right dimensions.

For weight this particular model averages between 850lbs and 1300lbs. I'm assuming the higher end of that amount due to the way it's built.

I would not call the quality shit. Just the fact that it is a light duty trailer.
I have thousands of miles on mine but I only haul ATVs and farm implements. So 1200 lbs is likely the most it has had on it.

Could look for an online auction outfit in your area that auctions construction equipment. Bet you can find a heavier duty trailer.