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posted July 14, 2022 09:47 PMHide Post
If you decide to fell a tree with the bore cut (aka plunge cut), you should practice first on a stump. Or a short tree that had its top blown out. Learning to control kickback is a large part of this method. Interestingly, the "low kickback" chains make it harder to do this type of cut.

In the Stihl line, "green" chains are the low kickback, and they often have semi-chisel teeth. "Yellow" chains don't have as much low kickback design, and often have full chisel teeth.

This gal has pretty good saw skills.

bore cut
 
Posts: 8166 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Ironbutt
posted July 14, 2022 10:00 PMHide Post
quote:
Originally posted by flesheatingvirus:
Chainsaw? Give me a solid double bit ax that’s at least 50 years old. Chainsaws are only for when I don’t have room to swing one.


More power to ya'.Smile Wood has been our primary Winter heat source for over 50 years & we go through five cords a year. I'll just keep using my Stihl chainsaw, thank you.


------------------------------------------------

"It's hard to imagine a more stupid or dangerous way of making decisions, than by putting those decisions in the hands of people who pay no price for being wrong."
Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 2048 | Location: PA | Registered: September 01, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted July 14, 2022 10:27 PMHide Post
Here's my first bore cut with a new Stihl 400 saw and 20" bar. Storms in 2019 blew out the top of this tree, producing a remaining stump maybe 10-11 feet tall. The tree was about 19" in diameter. The wood was very dry. The blue-stained wood shows that it was infected with pine beetles. Notice how clean the notch is.



As with the instructional video from the femalelumberjack, the hinge and the resulting torn wood fibers are minimal with a stump that doesn't have a crown. But the break on the hinge is quite clean -- the hinge broke all at one time, controlling the direction of the fall.

 
Posts: 8166 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A Grateful American
Picture of sigmonkey
posted July 14, 2022 10:34 PMHide Post
How to fell a tree.

1. Measure diameter.
2. If more than 2 feet D, 4 oz. of 90 proof per feet of diameter.
3. Chain saw cut wedge 47,93682649% of diameter wedge in the direction you desire tree to fall.
4. Have another drink (#2)
5. If you forgot if you completed step #4. then repeat #4 and proceed to #7.
7. WTF happened to step #6?!!!
8. GOTO #4
9. (WTH? We're trying to do BASIC?!!!!
10. Back cut until the wife starts screaming.
11. RUN!!!!
12. #4 again, after you do a #2.(Literally doing a #2)
13. Call insurance adjuster....
14. Claim uploaded Youtube video by h8ful neighbor, spouse, family member or anyone else is fake news.
15. Proceed to next tree...




"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
 
Posts: 45244 | Location: Box 1663 Santa Fe, New Mexico | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted July 14, 2022 11:14 PMHide Post
This was an old cottonwood in an erosion gully. The tree died many, many years ago and many of its branches were already on the ground. I was concerned that the core might have rotted wood, but it turned out to be hard as a rock. My chain was a bit dull from cutting up old logs already on the ground -- I should have switched to another chain. My old Stihl 310. Among the best notches I've cut.



The shallow cut just below the yellow wedges was the start of my first cut. After I started the plunge cut, I realized it should be an inch or two higher. I could have felled the tree with a conventional back cut, but thought the safety of a plunge might be better -- in case rotten wood existed in the rest of the trunk. Between the hard wood and the slightly dull "green" chain, the back cut wasn't as smooth my best. This can be seen via the chain marks in the trunk on the ground.



This is from a really old dead snag, with a solid lean. There was pretty much only one direction this snag would fall, but I didn't want it to shatter upon felling, which can produce the infamous barber chair. I felled this with a humbolt notch. I considered a bore cut, but did the normal back cut. Felled with my 16" bar Stihl 310, the tree was close to 20" in diameter. The hinge was pretty good, but had a little bit more wood on the left side of the hinge. Still, it fell right where I wanted. Note the rotten center, rotten edges, and the ants. The ants initially poured out like water out of a hose, but it took me a while to grab my phone for a picture.

 
Posts: 8166 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Keeping the economy moving since 1964
Picture of chbibc
posted July 15, 2022 04:51 PMHide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sigmonkey:
How to fell a tree.

1. Measure diameter.
2. If more than 2 feet D, 4 oz. of 90 proof per feet of diameter.
3. Chain saw cut wedge 47,93682649% of diameter wedge in the direction you desire tree to fall.
4. Have another drink (#2)
5. If you forgot if you completed step #4. then repeat #4 and proceed to #7.
7. WTF happened to step #6?!!!
8. GOTO #4
9. (WTH? We're trying to do BASIC?!!!!
10. Back cut until the wife starts screaming.
11. RUN!!!!
12. #4 again, after you do a #2.(Literally doing a #2)
13. Call insurance adjuster....
14. Claim uploaded Youtube video by h8ful neighbor, spouse, family member or anyone else is fake news.
15. Proceed to next tree...


Easier just to call fritz. Wink


-----------------------
You can't fall off the floor.
 
Posts: 8843 | Location: Rochester, NY behind enemy lines | Registered: March 12, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of wrightd
posted July 15, 2022 08:45 PMHide Post
quote:
Originally posted by fritz:
This was an old cottonwood in an erosion gully. The tree died many, many years ago and many of its branches were already on the ground. I was concerned that the core might have rotted wood, but it turned out to be hard as a rock. My chain was a bit dull from cutting up old logs already on the ground -- I should have switched to another chain. My old Stihl 310. Among the best notches I've cut.



The shallow cut just below the yellow wedges was the start of my first cut. After I started the plunge cut, I realized it should be an inch or two higher. I could have felled the tree with a conventional back cut, but thought the safety of a plunge might be better -- in case rotten wood existed in the rest of the trunk. Between the hard wood and the slightly dull "green" chain, the back cut wasn't as smooth my best. This can be seen via the chain marks in the trunk on the ground.



This is from a really old dead snag, with a solid lean. There was pretty much only one direction this snag would fall, but I didn't want it to shatter upon felling, which can produce the infamous barber chair. I felled this with a humbolt notch. I considered a bore cut, but did the normal back cut. Felled with my 16" bar Stihl 310, the tree was close to 20" in diameter. The hinge was pretty good, but had a little bit more wood on the left side of the hinge. Still, it fell right where I wanted. Note the rotten center, rotten edges, and the ants. The ants initially poured out like water out of a hose, but it took me a while to grab my phone for a picture.


I wonder if those would be carpenter ants or termites, or both if they normally live close together, I dunno.




Lover of the US Constitution
Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster
 
Posts: 9337 | Location: Nowhere the constitution is not honored | Registered: February 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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