https://youtu.be/OHXYWxMkhog?si=ceT6T_DYYmNCMm5T

A good review of fuel stabilizers.

I’ve been using Stabil but the marine version in my stored power equipment and vehicles.

I’m a little panicked about my truck. Even if I’ve been driving it every couple of months or so, the gas in the tank may last longer since I don’t use up the tank w/in a couple of months. I’m worried about this stacking concept.

Moving forward, maybe I’ll just keep about 1/4 tank and drive it every week. No fill up unless I’m driving distance.

But I’m also reading that storing w/ full tank is better - less oxygen in the tank. Kinda confused.

Can I mix stabil and Techron?

Seafoam

Stabil or Seafoam? The PF video above suggested Stabil is a better product?

I don't know about Seafoam's ability with stabilization, I use it as a fuel system cleaner

The JC Whitney catalog offers the Burmese Gas Snake.
I haven’t tried it myself though.

STA-BIL

Buy what you will use within a year or two rather than trying to save buying enough to treat a gas station to save a few dollars.

2 oz treats 5 gallons.

Seafoam or Berryman's B12, are good for "top end cleaning" either dribbling while running (the old "eye-tal-yon" tune up) or added to fuel during normal day to day or long trip drive.

It sounds like an O2 sensor needs to be changed, and not a fuel problem. I'd be very careful with using seafoam. It may cause more problems down the road. If you think it's fuel related, drive until you're at 1/8 tank and fill up with non-ethanol fuel. Ethanol fuel is a bigger problem than people realize. Ethanol builds up water into your fuel tank, and that creates problems. During the winter months I use ISO-HEET to help the fuel from freezing, but it also has properties as a injector cleaner. During the summer, I put a bottle in every month.

quote:

Originally posted by BigSwede:
I don't know about Seafoam's ability with stabilization, I use it as a fuel system cleaner

I have a 2004 Tacoma (6 cyl), mostly (when I could) used the top tier fuel. After about 15 years my fuel gauge stopped working. Oh well, I'm cheap and I'll just set the trip meter and fill up around 200 miles or so.
Where I live, I can get non ethanol fuel and that is what I run in my small engine yard tools, mower, string trimmer, leaf blower, etc. I also use a bit of seafoam in the gas. Usually find seafoam cheapest at Wal-Mart.
One day I decide to buy a couple cans of seafoam and dumped one in my Tacoma next time I filled up. Later I noticed that my fuel gauge started working again and has been working since.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
My car 40 years ago had a filter in the gas line. Wouldn’t that catch the sediment even if the pump station didn’t filter it out? Or is there something that doesn’t get filtered and makes it to the injectors?

If these additives are actually useful, I may start using them more regularly. Maybe once every oil change.

Wonder if I should use something special for the truck that just sits there on a battery tender for a couple of months at a time between drives.

I still have a 2005 Ford E350 van
6.0 diesel,

that model year had a known problem with fuel tanks delaminating and clogging shit up

new tank, new pumps, new injectors and new filters later, it is like new,

so yes, filters work to a point, but not always like we think

For infrequently used vehicles and equipment: Sta-Bil for sure and ethanol free gas if available.

I have a 2015 Sierra, the 1st generation of 5.3L Direct-injection motors. There are specific conditions* where I get a little diesel-ing on start up (sort of a low-compression detonation event, like old engines with worn valves). If I use the remote start, it doesn't do it (cranks longer before firing). Running ~6oz Lucas fuel treatment in a full tank about every 2-3 months keeps it away. A couple WOT + load cycles helps as well, get the cyl temp up & load the engine to blow the crud away.

*Humid, warm-hot air temp + partially cooled engine temp (150ish) sitting for 1/2 hour+. I suspect it's either build-up on the injectors or exhaust valves that causes a lean or low-compression situation on crank. There's definitely a difference in start up sequence between key & remote - remote will crank longer every time. This gives the crud a chance to be 'persuaded' and conditions to normalize. It's why I lean towards valve build up.

Techron Concentrate Plus, DI Jectron from Liqui Moly, or Red Line's SI-1 fuel cleaner, especially if you have a direct injection engine. They contain PEA (the magic potion for fuel injectors). I use DI Jectron from Liqui Moly in a tank before every oil change.

quote:

Originally posted by DonDraper:
Techron Concentrate Plus, DI Jectron from Liqui Moly, or Red Line's SI-1 fuel cleaner, especially if you have a direct injection engine. They contain PEA (the magic potion for fuel injectors). I use DI Jectron from Liqui Moly in a tank before every oil change.

This^ I use the Redline. $16 at O'Reilly's

Star Tron Fuel Enzyme and Treatments are what I use in the motorcycle, generator and tractor.

https://www.starbrite.com/prod...tor-cleaner-pea-tech

This is really good stuff, they also have a fuel treatment without the PEA that you can add to a tank to clean up deposits etc....

Thanks for the suggestions. Trying the techron first - known brand to me and it's on sale (2 for 1!). Also the High Mileage formula seems to include some sort of fuel stabilizer. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like it's solving the hesitation issue for me. Perhaps it's the O2 sensor suggested above? May just bring it in - I don't know how to check for O2 sensor, MAF sensor or fuel filter (common culprits for hesitation?). Not even sure where they are located.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HRK:
Star Tron Fuel Enzyme and Treatments are what I use in the motorcycle, generator and tractor.

https://www.starbrite.com/prod...tor-cleaner-pea-tech

Startron is my favorite fuel stabilizer, have seen it keep fuel fresh for 5 years.

If ethanol fuel is affecting my car, is there a likely component being affected that would manifest in these acceleration from stop hesitations? (it's like all engine power just stops and RPMs go to zero for a split second).

I used about a quarter tank after filling w/ gas and the techron additive. If this is going to fix anything, should I have seen it by now or need to finish the tank (or two)?

I use Liqui Moly products for my 2015 diesel Q5. They have a good lineup for what you might need. A bit more expensive but my engine (crossing fingers and knocking on wood) is at 325k miles and I have an 2008 Honda Ridgeline at 380k miles. Same deal. Routine maintenance and Liqui Moly.