I just want a quality one but I don’t need a professional grade. I need at least 320 ft/lb according to the manufacturer of my hitch.
Thx!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BB61,

When I was in grad school, the guys in the structures lab swore by Craftsman torque wrenches. They were good quality and if they broke, the salesperson at Sears would give them the “What the hell have you been doing with that thing look” before giving them a new one since they were guaranteed forever. That was 40 years ago so I’m not sure where they’re made or what the quality is these days.

If memory serves, 320 ft-lbs is equivalent to fully tightening a 3/4” diameter ASTM A325 high strength bolt. You’ll need something with good quality for that. It you know any steelworkers, you might be able to get them to use theirs for a a few beers or a good meal, though most use twist-off bolts and impact wrenches these days.

I had the RV dealer do it for me. In my case it was a 2 5/16” ball and 475 ft/lbs of torque.

Or, borrow one from AutoZone. Pay for it, bring it back within 90 days for a full refund.

“Loan or Buy

AutoZone has the lowest prices on loaner torque wrenches for those who wish to borrow or buy. Put a deposit down and keep the tool for 90 days. Decide you don't need it any longer? Return it for the full deposit back. If you want to keep it, the deposit pays for it. It's not always feasible to purchase a needed specialty tool especially if it's only for one job. The Loan-a-Tools program helps you work on your car with the right tools at prices you can afford. Not sure why you need the specialty tool? Ask an associate for more information. Our knowledgeable staff can show you how to use it and why that particular part or job requires the specialty tool. Beyond torque wrenches, we loan a variety of tools such as ball joint separators and strut spring compressors to name a few.”

I haven't used one, but maybe a torque multiplier with a shorter bar might work, but not sure if that would be an appropo application, nor relative cost.

According to "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot", when tightening the flywheel bolts to the required 253 ft-lbs without a torque wrench, you got it as tight as you could, then another third of a turn.

Hope this helps.

if this is a one time deal find some method that doesn't involve buying a torque wrench. There are really no dirt cheap ones for this amount of torque. But if this is like large 3/4" grade 8 bolts on a hitch I would have no hesitation in just using the longest 3/4" breaker bar I owned and brute force. You will get close enough for this application.

In my research on buying a new torque wrench a few years ago I found that your target setting should be within 20-80% of the rated capacity meaning that you’ll need one with about a 400#/ft rating.

This is the cheapest one I could find…

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/55...YSjThBIaAg1wEALw_wcB

Several years ago when I was doing front end work on my F250 diesel I bought a Tekton brand off Amazon. I actually bought 2 different ones and they both worked well.

If it’s for securing the ball to the hitch, use a lock washer, a long breaker bar and a Y football player to cinch it up .

Two grunts.

You are not going to break it, put a cheater bar on a breaker bar and tighten the shit out of it

quote:

Originally posted by BigSwede:
You are not going to break it, put a cheater bar on a breaker bar and tighten the shit out of it

Just don't do like I did & snap the male end of the socket off.
Attempting to break the flywheel nut loose on a 13B rotary RX7 engine [54mm & something like 300ft/lb] with a 3/8 breaker, sheared it right off.
Replaced under Craftsman warranty, upgraded to a bigger 1/2 breaker & was able to break it loose.

I would buy a 3/4" breaker bar and use a pipe for an extension. Put your hands about 4' out, and pull about 85 lbs. with your hands.

If it was a head bolt, I would use a quality torque wrench, but not for a trailer ball.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: c1steve,

If you don’t like the free AutoZone loaner tool option, there’s a 3/4” digital torque measuring device you attach between your socket and breaker bar for $60 at Harbor Freight: Link.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: trapper189,

^^^^^^^
That looks useful, and I think Harbor Freight has a tool loaning policy you could check out.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris Orndorff:
If it’s for securing the ball to the hitch, use a lock washer, a long breaker bar and a Y football player to cinch it up .

^^^^
I have a new tow vehicle and I have to change the height on the shank.

Y football player? I’d be better off having a 90 year old granny do it (Go Aggies !!!)!

Thanks guys. I like the torque adapter from Harbor Freight and the Auto Zone options.

I found a PT 3/4", 600lb. torque wrench on sale on WOOT.COM about one year ago for less than $100.
I bought it to torque the lug nuts on my Motorhome.
Works good.

https://www.amazon.com/Perform...s/dp/B00PX16Z4Q?th=1

I bought three sizes of Craftsman torque wrenches at Sears a few years ago. Pre-Covid, maybe 2017 or 2018, can't remember. They work fine, but I don't know how exact they are. I use them on AR barrel nuts and castle nuts and muzzle devices mostly.

My torque screwdriver is a Stanley Proto professional one I got at Grainger. Had a calibration certificate but of course I haven't gotten in calibrated in 15 years since I got it. Need to do that sometime.

If I was doing something critical with the torque wrenches I'd get Proto or similar industrial brand from Grainger or MSC. I don't like Snap-On.

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
I found a PT 3/4", 600lb. torque wrench on sale on WOOT.COM about one year ago for less than $100.
I bought it to torque the lug nuts on my Motorhome.
Works good.

https://www.amazon.com/Perform...s/dp/B00PX16Z4Q?th=1

At $140, that’s a good deal. NAPA, O’Reily, etc have it for over $350 and Rock Auto has it for $260.