No, not that kind of advice.

I have 2 30+ foot hemlock trees which are under run by euonymous ground cover. The infestation is very deep as I've let it go too long. However it has started encroaching on other plantings so I want to get serious, but not harm the trees, if possible. The herbicides that are ok for hemlock the ground cover puts on its toast in the morning for breakfast. Also have lighting wires running through here so grubbing it out is not easy. I have just put black plastic sheets down to block the light and cook the ground cover. Have used this successfully in other places. Will this harm the trees? Considering poking some water holes to let rain through but don't know if this is all a doomed effort.

Have you tried Roundup ? It won't hurt the tree as long as it doesn't contact the foliage .

Goats? Seriously, get some goats penned in close and they will eat it all. Wires too maybe.

Roundup was entirely ineffective.

Goats would do the job, but I think the'd eat the tree where they could reach it and definitely would eat the wires.

quote:

No, not that kind of advice.

I was going to try to talk you out of it....

is it grasses or broad leaf weeds? That will make a difference on the herbicide to use.

You also could burn them with a weed burner as a little heat close to the Hemlock will not hurt the tree.

Goats eating hemlock isn't a problem if that isn't the only thing they have to eat. They'll eat a little hemlock, eat a lot of oak leaves, eat some grass, etc. Doesn't bother them. Now if all they had to eat was hemlock, that would likely not end well for them. As far as hurting the trees, if the don't eat the bark off and girdle them, the trees will be fine too.

ETA: Goats can be a pain in the neck to contain and if you have mountain lions or coyotes around you may also need guardian dogs to protect them. If you want to try goats, the best way is to hire someone with a weed eating goat business and have them deal with it. (Says the guy with 12 adult does, 11 adult wethers, a billy, 34 three month old kids, and three Anatolian Shepherd / Great Pyrenees dogs to protect them all. Whatever they want to come take care of your weeds is a bargain. )

This is what I'm trying

Basic Overview:

One of the best nonchemical ways to get rid weeds, and some diseases and pests, is to solarize your soil.

While normally this technique is used in areas with lots of sun and high temperatures, it can be modified for cooler areas and for cooler times of the year.

The results may not be as long lasting or effective, but it can sure help if you are having a battle against weeds.

Solarization is a simple nonchemical technique that captures the radiant heat and energy from the sun and causes physical, chemical, and biological changes in the soil. These changes lead to control, or suppression, of soilborne plant pathogens such as fungi, bacteria, nematodes, and pests along with weed seeds and seedlings.

Solarization consists of covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during a hot period of the year when the soil will receive maximum direct sunlight. When properly done, the top 6 inches (15 cm) soil will heat up to as high as 125° F (52 ° C).

Over several weeks, that's hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as; wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and noxious weed seed.

In addition, solarization stimulates the release of nutrients from organic matter present in the soil. It is especially effective for treating garden soils, where the intent is to plant vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
link

It's done fine in the garden area before. This is obviously a much shadier area. Thinking that it will be OK for the trees, as their taproots are deep enough that they are below the water table, but this will need to be at least 8 weeks of treatment, if not more, and covers all of the ground of their branch canopies.

Maybe something like this?

https://flameengineering.com/c...ed-dragon-torch-kits

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
Maybe something like this?

https://flameengineering.com/c...ed-dragon-torch-kits

Planning that for where the trees aren't

My first thought was also Goat.


Edit: Not sure if Prime eligible; )

https://www.amazon.com/Hire-a-...Grazer/dp/B00UBYDXXQ

Multiple applications of roundup should do it. Did you use a surfactant?

I have had good luck with roundup and 2,4-D tank mixed. Both mixed to full recommended rate. Again a surfactant is required. I just use cheep dishwashing liquid. Will still require multiple applications.
Don't spray that mix on anything you don't want to kill!

Did not add a surfactant. That is an excellent suggestion, thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Multiple applications of roundup should do it. Did you use a surfactant?

I have had good luck with roundup and 2,4-D tank mixed. Both mixed to full recommended rate. Again a surfactant is required. I just use cheep dishwashing liquid. Will still require multiple applications.
Don't spray that mix on anything you don't want to kill!

I agree and maybe increase the strength of roundup. I don't like roundup because it kills the micro-bios in the soil.

You need both a spreader/sticker and I like Miller Nu-Film 17. When I had an orchard and vineyard, it cut the number of sprayings required in half.

quote:

Originally posted by ChuckFinley:
Did not add a surfactant. That is an excellent suggestion, thanks!

When did you spray?


Spraying Roundup during a cool period when plants aren't actively growing is a common cause of failure.

Sorted about 3 weeks ago

I had to search for the meaning of "euonymous" (reminds me of Scotch broom), and I don't have a photo and general location to work with. If feasible, I would use loppers to remove the larger bushes and then proceed with your black plastic sheeting idea to block out sunlight. They'll die.

Poking holes in the sheeting would not likely be necessary to avoid harming your hemlocks, but it couldn't hurt.

Oh, goats would be a bad idea for hemlocks. I only know of Western hemlock and Mountain hemlock, but if the bark is wounded, they will prematurely succumb to disease. Expose the bark of a hemlock, and they have around 20 years left to live in my locality. (No reference - I learned that myself and later from loggers.)