I've been "chatting" with a couple of dealerships. I google RAV4 and the MSRP comes in around 26k. The dealership here in Pueblo came in at 30k. A Denver dealership came in at 28.5k. I specifically asked both for the MSRP. So, is 4k and haggling range?

One thing that I didn't see mentioned above is to go the the Manufacturers website and go over it with a fine toothed comb and see what Factory Rebates and Discounts are available.

Do NOT expect the dealership to inform you of these discounts.

Do NOT give them your real phone number. Get a Google phone number exclusively to communicate with the dealerships.

Same thing with your email, create a temporary use throwaway email address.

Best wishes to you.
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My $0.02. Buy used. A nifty strategy is to sit in the CarMax lot waiting for people to come out with their quote and then offer them higher than CarMax offered.

Do you have a costco in your area?

https://www.costcoauto.com/ent...ode.aspx?gotourl=%2f

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
I've been "chatting" with a couple of dealerships. I google RAV4 and the MSRP comes in around 26k. The dealership here in Pueblo came in at 30k. A Denver dealership came in at 28.5k. I specifically asked both for the MSRP. So, is 4k and haggling range?

Msrp is going to be set by the manufacturer, they will all be the same. Any difference in msrp would be trim/packages/options related.

I used to have a retired Ford dealership manager in my office. He taught me basically what Jimmy123 said above. Dealers do not want you to waste their time-salesmen are most interested in the uneducated buyer who will pay sticker without questioning it.

But the last two vehicles we bought we used USAA's car buying program. I find the exact vehicle we want and tell them and they find the vehicle for us. They know what all the dealer cost and rebate and incentives are for the various trim packages. They have agreements with dealers for their members to buy vehicles at X amount over the invoice and will find the best price. The dealers like this arrangement because they get a good customer base with guaranteed USAA financing, I get a good price without all the game playing and hassle, and USAA makes a few bucks. When they find the vehicle I want, I just walk in, pick between colors available, test drive, sign papers and drive off the lot. I think some of the larger credit unions have similar programs

I looked up the USAA car buying program. Its looks like it has been suspended on October 1st.

https://www.usaa.com/my/car-buying-selling/faq

There are a lot of online resources to LEARN THE COST OF THE VEHICLE, before it gets to the dealer. Once you research THAT cost. You simply offer a reasonable amount over the cost. If the dealer accepts, cool. If not WALK.!!!!!!!!

You may want to take a look at Hertz’ pre-owned vehicles.

I am considering picking up an Explorer from them, and they are priced very competitively to what is listed on Autotrader, Cargus, Cars and AutoList.

They are consistently ~$3K less, and many come ‘Certified’ with a warranty that is honored at authorized Ford dealers.

quote:

Originally posted by BigJoe:
There are a lot of online resources to LEARN THE COST OF THE VEHICLE, before it gets to the dealer.

Would you mind listing out some of those sources?

quote:

Originally posted by Broadside:

quote:

Originally posted by BigJoe:
There are a lot of online resources to LEARN THE COST OF THE VEHICLE, before it gets to the dealer.

Would you mind listing out some of those sources?

www.edmunds.com. Look up the vehicle you're interested on, then click on "build and price" and go through the options and then scroll down and it will tell you invoice, price you should pay, will show the rebates further down, etc.

Have you driven the vehicles you are considering? I found the Rav to have lots of road noise. Stopped looking at them after a short noisy test run. Good luck in your quest.

Yeah, car buying is much different now. By far the best way is all online.

Last year I bought a new Colorado. I had visited some of the GM/Colorado forums and saw what people were paying for that same truck so I had a good idea what they were going for. I searched the closest dealers inventory and found the truck I wanted and then spoke to the dealers Internet specialist (nice lady) and told her to give me her best price on the truck. I counter offered what she said and she went to talk to the sales manager, called me back and said it was a deal. I asked if she could have the truck ready in two days and she said no problem. I got there, met up with her and drove that truck home two hours later. Well, I did have to test drive it first. They did not charge me one additional penny over the quote they gave me. Very easy, painless transaction.

quote:

Originally posted by cne32507:
Do it online.

This^^^

Pick the model and package you want and request quotes from multiple dealers via their websites. Once you settle on a dealer negotiate from there. I generally have the price nailed down before I set foot in the dealership. I always ask them to throw something in for free (usually tiny all the way around) just prior to closing the deal.

I signed up with TrueCar.com. Specified car I wanted: make, model, trim, color, interior color.
Got texts from 3-4 local dealers, including one that was really good but not a dealer I knew. Took that text to dealer who had the interior color Accord I wanted, they gave me the same price, a A couple of four thousand below MSRP for a brand new model Honda Accord. Owner of vtec.net was surprised I could get that discount on the brand new model (this was March 2018).
At the dealer, dealt with the internet manager who referred me to no-pressure salesman. Salesman took my offer to closer who agreed on price.
Whole thing was pleasant, they got me the precise vehicle I wanted (there weren’t many with ivory interiors available) at a great price. I paid cash, but that’s not a plus, they like to finance.

quote:

Would you mind listing out some of those sources?

truecar.com

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
I've been "chatting" with a couple of dealerships. I google RAV4 and the MSRP comes in around 26k. The dealership here in Pueblo came in at 30k. A Denver dealership came in at 28.5k. I specifically asked both for the MSRP. So, is 4k and haggling range?

NO. Your target price is INVOICE plus some reasonable mark up for the dealer less rebates unless you are looking at some rare or really in demand/short supply vehicle.

IIRC Truecar gives you the invoice price as well as MSRP.

I just checked on consumerreports.org: they work with TrueCar, so if you give them your phone number they will contact the dealers in your area, and will give you the TrueCar “Members Price”—but remember dealers may offer you a price below that, as was my case—$1,000 below the TrueCar price.

quote:

Originally posted by nasig:

quote:

Originally posted by goose5:
I've been "chatting" with a couple of dealerships. I google RAV4 and the MSRP comes in around 26k. The dealership here in Pueblo came in at 30k. A Denver dealership came in at 28.5k. I specifically asked both for the MSRP. So, is 4k and haggling range?

NO. Your target price is INVOICE plus some reasonable mark up for the dealer less rebates unless you are looking at some rare or really in demand/short supply vehicle.

Respectfully, that’s wrong as well. Target price is the lowest out the door number...period. Many folks get tangled in the weeds with invoice, rebate, discount, msrp, holdback, employee price, Costco plan, etc. None of that matters. Lowest out the door price between dealers in the distance you are willing to travel. Really that simple. Look up the model/trim/options you want on autotrader, car gurus, etc within your search radius. Contact the 2 or 3 lowest and get the out the door number including any taxes/fees/add-ons/discount/rebate not tied to any finance deal and then make your decision.

Goose5, you seem to be very new at this so I’ll break it down (bought 10+ cars recently):

1. You have to KNOW the car you want. Critical. Make, model, year, what trim or options. Do this however you’d like, drive your friends’ vehicles, test drive, whatever.

2. Once you have #1, do a bit of online research. Literally go to cars.com and figure out what dealers are advertising the vehicles that match your specifications. This is a “ballpark” figure, in other words a sanity check.

3. Email the dealers in whatever is a comfortable driving distance for you (I’ve bought cars in Texas, and live in Florida. Your case may be different). Ask for their best, out the door price including ALL taxes and fees, for your county (especially if it’s an out of state purchase).

4. Buy the car that is cheapest from #3.

This way, you ignore the MSRP, Invoice, and whatever other irrelevant nonsense people can dream up. If this was a gun, would you care what the manufacturer suggested price is, or the price your local FFL paid for it? Hell no, if Bud’s has it $100 cheaper than MSRP and $65 cheaper than your FFL, you are getting it from Buds. Same principle.

EDIT: EmpireState and I are in perfect agreement. Ultimately, this is a simple transaction: you want the product at the cheapest price.