My 2010 F150 has reached the point where I'm willing to drill holes in it and do other questionable things to modify it. With 335,000 miles and a bit of rust showing on the fenders and bed, I'm not as fussy about such things as i once was.

In the process of installing a ham radio, I figured I would add some lighting. Running wire anyway, I put in a four lighted toggle panel recessed into the dash. I have 8 ga wire run from the main fuse block, through the fire wall to the area above the pedals. Fused right at the fuse block take off. Sized it for 50 amps as it's about 7' of wire. That should power anything I want including the radio with a 20 amp circuit.

So now for my questions. I want a light bar for distance. Before your rant on the SOB's in ratted out, lifted Rams with ungodly bright light bars, this is for back road, off road(not that I won't be tempted to turn it on when BillyJoJimBob blinds me). I'm looking for distance with a tad of flood fill. What size in inches, and what wattage light bar do I want? Also, I'm going to add ditch lights, because driving out of a backwoods fishing spot or a forest service road after working medical at an ARA race, it can be hard to see the edges. Same info for the ditch lights as well as mount suggestions.

Thanks for the input.

And if anyone knows where I can mount a 6 circuit, accessory switched fuse block under the dash, I'm all ears. Can't locate a single suitable spot.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Appliance Brad,

My understanding with auxiliary automotive lighting, you want BOTH fuse protection and a Relay. The fuse protects the circuit from overcurrent and fire hazard, whereas the relay allows your low amperage switch to control high-amperage lights. This will prevent switch damage and voltage drop.

Yes the switch should run a relay in those operations, that way the full power goes through the relay to the lights, the switch won't see the full power and you won't burn it up.

Of course the right lights are KC lights, with the yellow smile covers!

But, you can buy any number of LED light bars in any size you like at Harbor Freight or Amazon.

I would mount the light bar between your fog lights.




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A few points from adding aux lighting to several vehicles over the years (Nissan Frontier, Jeep JK, Toyota Tacoma, Subaru Outback, and last but not least, Honda Africa twin):

* As others have said, RELAYS! You want the switch driving the relays, and the high current going through the relays. Relays can live under the hood, switches in the cab. This is BY FAR the safest way to do things.

* If you decide to mount the light bar on the roof, figure out some way to shield the hood (or even worse, your windshield) from the glare. If you have glare off the hood, it seriously compromises your visibility. They way I've managed this is to move the light bar rearward so that the roof catches the glare and "shades" your hood from the lights. If you mount the light bar in the grill or on the bumper, this doesn't apply.

* Do a combo spot/ flood pattern on the light bar.

* Ditch lights should have either combo spot/ flood patterns or be full flood. I do full flood on mine, you don't really need to reach out with them.

* Waytek is a great source for components (fuses, relays, connectors, power distribution units, etc. etc. etc.

For relays, I used the Bussman RTMR panel. It accepts 280 series micro relays and ATC fuses. I got 5 full circuits (fuse + relay) in the one I used. Get a cheap 280 series crimper for the connectors, you'll thank me later.

* To get wiring to the roof area, KC makes this extruded rubber wire hider: www.kchilites.com/universal-wire-hider-kc-63002.html

* High current connectors: I've use the Aptiv Weather-Pak series. Get a cheap crimp tool, you'll thank me later.

* If you want to get fancy, you could hook things up to a latching relay off the high beam circuit, that way it only works when the high beams are on. It makes it easier to turn off if there is oncoming traffic, you only dim the headlights and aren't fumbling for several switches.

I tend to over-engineer (well, over-think anyway) projects. This could be redneck-engineered together simpler, but I think my solution is safer and more "elegant".

Hope this helps!

quote:

Originally posted by IntrepidTraveler:
Hope this helps!

It did, thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by Greymann:
I would mount the light bar between your fog lights.

My front license place bracket covers that spot on the bumber. We don't have front plates in Michigan but I have a Fire/EMS plate in mine.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
Y
Of course the right lights are KC lights, with the yellow smile covers!

My '72 Checy LUV truck had KC HiLites on the roll bar and brush guard. I also replaced the high bems with Daylighter bulbs. Man did they light things up but they took tons of watts and required upgrading the alternator to run them all.

I settled on Digital Diode lights, but there are several brands out there that are similar. Above comments match my experience.

You Tube has a plethora of good information. Unless you mount two sets of lights, driving/spot and fog, I would go with a Combo light.

There are several switch panels out there that combine the functions oh multiple switches. Very handy but pricy a with a lot of wiring.

Like the Ford above, mine are mounted in grill openings, very subtle. Of course there are many options if you have a grill guard.

The undisputed king of all off-road lighting is Baja Designs but the light bar that they have that fits behind the grill is over $1000! I bought one a few years ago at Overland Expo on sale and it is truly amazing.

However, for a much more budget friendly option you might want to consider the Harbor Freight options. These get good reviews and you can also get the wiring kit to go with them which makes installation much easier.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...light-bar-64320.html

Depends on your budget. If you want to turn night time into daytime, I recommend the Whelen pioneer plus series. They're expensive and a little bigger, but nothing comes close.

Got my ditch lights powered up today. Used the included relay but had to modify the included wire harness. Just need to take the time when it's dark to get them aligned correctly. Have the relay power trigger wire all pulled and switched for the light bar. I'll eventually add some rear/cargo lights as well.

Thanks for all the input.

I have a bunch of Ridged Industries lights and the first time I bought them I said "Good grief they're over priced, why did I buy that? (A 12-14" light bar) Not doing that again."

And I did, three more times. Because everything else lens fogged/hazed, faded, leaked or stopped working. While the RI lights are as good as when I installed them years ago.

But ouch. Didn't stop me from wondering why I did it again and wondering just how stupid I am.

Other things to consider would be installing projector headlights replacing your OEM headlights.

My truck was made back then when the manufacturers were overzealous about 'light pollution'.

Which is a nice way to say 'can't see shit' with highs or lows.

Was able to install projectors and two stage fog lights in a weekend and don't need any additional light bars or spots.

This allowed me to have additional visibility without additional wires/relays/ballasts/fuses to put somewhere.