My 1995 Ford F150 XL with the 4.9L and dual fuel tanks needs new tanks and pumps. If you'uns have any practical advice, not typically found in the YouTube and other places I have already searched, it would be most appreciated. This may include
---do not use up all your swear words on the first tank
---soak tank strap nuts and bolts with Kroil before using the impact wrench
---be careful not to...

I'm looking for lessons learned and worth repeating.

I have carefully deduced that both tanks and pumps need replacing. At present to start the truck I have to jumper between relay terminals 30 and 87, then whack the tank under the pump with a rubber hammer, then replace the relay and start the truck. Relay, inertia switch, and fuel tank switch are fine. I have already ordered two new fuel tank assemblies with pumps and sending units within.

Thanks in advance.

I have always wondered about replacing the rear tank on my 97 f250 with the tank from a Bronco, which holds around 30 gallons. It looks like it might fit. You’d lose the crappy under-bed spare tire mount, though.

I am replacing with units from Spectra, made in Canada, with OEM dimensions. I will have 36 gallons of fuel available with both. I hope I can actually remove the spare tire to get to the rear tank.

I replaced the tank in my old Chevy pickup. It was a real pain in the ass. Nothing special to know but do watch a few YouTube videos first.

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At present to start the truck I have to jumper between relay terminals 30 and 87 ...

I'm having trouble with this part. Why do you have to do that? Pin 30 is hot all the time, 87 feeds the pump circuit. You've completely bypassed the relay. Does the relay not engage? It should click on when you turn the ignition on, sending voltage to 87, then click off after 2 seconds if you don't crank the engine. It should (obviously) be on as long is the engine is cranking or running.

If you have a tow hitch, it may need to be removed to get the rear tank out.....at least it did on my 88 truck.

Try to get most of the fuel out before dropping the tanks, they can be heavy with a full tank.

Good luck!

Sometimes its easier to remove the bed to get at the tank and fittings. Did that when I replaced a pump on my old Chevy K3500.

I did both tanks on an 89 econiline van some years back.
There is also an additional fuel pump located on frame under floor of drivers seat.
Not a bad job unless the tanks are full of fuel.
Floor jack and a sidewinder air ratchet will help.
P B blaster for the rusty strap bolts helps.

Use a motorcycle jack under the tanks.

Regarding the question on jumpering 30-87 at the relay...the system will power on the pump only for three seconds, when the relay is in place. To keep the pump running for a few seconds more, so you can hammer the tank to jostle the pump rotor free, I have to jumper the power to that pump. I pull the jumper and put the relay back in place once I know the pump is actually freely spinning and delivering fuel.

quote:

Sometimes its easier to remove the bed to get at the tank and fittings. Did that when I replaced a pump on my old Chevy K3500.

I worked at an auto shop in the rustbelt during high school, this was the preferred method. There are usually six or eight bed bolts and a few electrical connectors for the taillights. Much more accessible than messing around with the strap bolts. This will give you easy access to everything you need.

I doubt you'll get the strap nuts off - I had to replace a fuel pump on an 8 year old truck and they were rusted tight. I ended up hammering a crap 12pt socket on them and twisting the bolt until it broke. The hanger strap bolts seemed pretty soft so it wasn't that big of a deal.

Working with vehicle fuel tanks ranks right up there (on the shit job list) with replacing transmission fluid filters in a transmission that doesn't have a drain on the pan.

An obvious one is to make sure the tanks are mostly empty to make it much easier. Either pump them out or (since you're replacing the tanks) punch a hole in the lowest corner to let them drain.

Good luck. I'd learn a few new swear works just for the occasion!

Shawn

No smoking!
No acetylene torch!
And yes, I was present when an idiot friend burned down his garage (and his truck) by cutting his straps with a torch.

quote:

Originally posted by 4MUL8R:
Regarding the question on jumpering 30-87 at the relay...the system will power on the pump only for three seconds, when the relay is in place. To keep the pump running for a few seconds more, so you can hammer the tank to jostle the pump rotor free, I have to jumper the power to that pump. I pull the jumper and put the relay back in place once I know the pump is actually freely spinning and delivering fuel.

I see. Actually rather clever.

If a fuel pump starts working, or tries to, with blows to the tank, that is a dead giveaway. I have actually rapped on tanks (but with a helper to crank the engine) as a diagnostic aid and to try to get the vehicle running long enough to drive it into the shop. Especially since rupturing an Achilles tendon doing that, I really dislike pushing cars.

Two other things: the fuel pressure and return lines are probably push-on and quick-connect. Notice I didn't say quick disconnect. A tool, something like this one …



… is needed. They might have plastic clips like these …



… but I doubt it on this year. Unless you take the bed off, you'll need a light to see what you're doing. DO NOT USE AN INCANDESCENT LIGHT. If a bulb breaks in the presence of gas fumes, we might be reading your obituary instead of about your truck running. LED or fluorescent lights only.

Order new tank straps to go with your tanks. Pulling the bed off the truck won't help if you are replacing the tanks. This does work to replace the pump only though. Remove the fuel line at the fuel filter (you should replace it anyway) Jumper the fuel pump and pump the fuel into a gas can before you drop the tank.

The dealer had to replace a tank on my dad's 73 Camper Special.....they had to replace it a 2nd time when they discovered somehow someone overlooked inspecting the new tank for pinhole leaks before the install........

If you can gain access to a lift, your job will be much easier than laying on the garage floor to wrestle tanks. Ask me how I know...

Remove the bed. It doesn't take very long to remove the bed, but it makes swapping the tanks a hell of a lot easier.

I had a Mercury Grand Marquis and I had to pull the tank (don’t recall why, I think fuel pump replacement). I was going to reuse the studs that the strap bolts on (strap goes over stud, it goes over strap). I could never get the strap on over the stud so I bought new studs and found out why. Once the strap is bolted over the stud the end of the stud breaks off (I think it’s to prevent puncturing the gas tank in a crash). I would have never gotten that strap bolted on using the old studs. So buy new studs in case that’s a Ford thing.