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I usually run my car around for about 20 minutes before changing the oil. The thought is that all the nasty particulate matter will be suspended and thus drain more out at change time. Because of a defective out of the box lift I was unable to change my car's oil before putting it up for the winter. I have read on the Porsche forums where changing the oil cold is not a problem, you just have to let it drain longer. So I solicit the collective for its opinion. | ||
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Man of few words![]() |
I do similar to you a drive around the neighborhood for about 5 - 10 minutes prior to changing my vehicle's oil. | |||
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Member |
I drive 10 minutes down the hiway to the place that does my oil and then within a few minutes it’s up in The air. | |||
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A Grateful American![]() |
Warm. I let it sit for about an hour. "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
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Lawyers, Guns and Money ![]() |
I think that's right. Warmer is better. "Some things are apparent. Where government moves in, community retreats, civil society disintegrates and our ability to control our own destiny atrophies. The result is: families under siege; war in the streets; unapologetic expropriation of property; the precipitous decline of the rule of law; the rapid rise of corruption; the loss of civility and the triumph of deceit. The result is a debased, debauched culture which finds moral depravity entertaining and virtue contemptible." -- Justice Janice Rogers Brown "The United States government is the largest criminal enterprise on earth." -rduckwor | |||
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quarter MOA visionary![]() |
Just warm. | |||
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
As long as you change it at recommended intervals or sooner, it probably doesn't matter. I change mine after at least 20 minutes. Can't hurt. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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Member![]() |
Why does is matter is the particles are suspended or not? If they are in the oil. I guess you mean particles that are not in the oil but just stuck onto items above the oil. But anyway... back when I did change my oil it was either warm or hot..... now I pay my local mechanic to to do it.... Not to change the subject... but a few years back I asked a question on the internet that had always baffled me.... what is synthetic oil? Kind of confusing since most synthetics are made out of oil. My Native American Name: "Runs with Scissors" | |||
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Honky Lips![]() |
if I'm doing it I'll go for warm just because I find it most comfortable for my hands. ___________________________ The point is, who will stop me? | |||
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Member![]() |
Warm. The hotter the better option is not correct. Warm the oil so it floats and flows the particles on the bottom of the of the pan. Too hot where you are more likely going to burn yourself is not good either. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ | |||
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Tinker Sailor Soldier Pie![]() |
The oil drains a heck of a lot faster and easier when it's hot, I know that much. But does it really matter otherwise? No, not really. ~Alan Acta Non Verba NRA Life Member (Patron) God, Family, Guns, Country Men will fight and die to protect women... because women protect everything else. ~Andrew Klavan | |||
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Edge seeking Sharp blade! |
As far as suspending particulates, I suspect modern engines with full flow filtering, don't have many, save some that elude the trip to the filter and sit in the bottom of the pan. I prefer warm, but sometimes do cold if it is expedient. All oil has flowed into the pan from sitting since warm, so it is all in the pan. Why pump it somewhere else when you are trying to drain it? The only drawback I see to cold, (not talking arctic cold) is that the draining flow isn't as fast which could flush debris out of the pan that didn't get to the filter. I wish engines had a port that you could apply pressurized oil with a hand pump to flush the pickup screen. Maybe it would just induce a failure point and not be worth it. | |||
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Member![]() |
I always do it when the car is piping hot, pull the drain plug and come back in an hour. But Mrs. Lee's POS BMW X1 has a PLASTIC drain plug. Guess what happens when you put a hex bit into a hot plastic drain plug and turn. It's so ridiculous that they even include a new drain plug with each new oil filter kit, knowing you will destroy the old one every time you remove it, often having to use a chisel or Dremel tool. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. ![]() |
Slightly warm is much preferred. Nothing like having hot oil get all over your hand and run down your arm. With one of these tools to grasp the drain plug (assuming it turns easily) … ![]() … you can minimize this. But on many cars you also have to reach through tight spaces next to hot exhaust and other engine parts to get at the filter. | |||
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Member |
Hot when I used to do it myself. Now at 75+ I have it done. | |||
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Cogito Ergo Sum |
Warm. | |||
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If you see me running try to keep up ![]() |
My two cents is that it only matters for flowing capability. Any solids that aren’t already in the filter will settle where they are in the engine as soon as flow stops. Warm oil is all that’s needed, changing your oil and filter regularly is more important. I did my daughters Civic once when she had been driving. I ended up hitting the exhaust and got a second degree burn on my arm that ended up getting infected. | |||
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Big Stack |
I'd want the car warm. But then leave it for 10-15 minutes to let the oil settle back in the pan before draining. | |||
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Woke up today.. Great day! |
I change hot. But I also have a lift and an large oil change tank. | |||
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