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I need a safe way to remotely switch 120v AC between two motors. Login/Join 
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted
Here is the scenario: I scavenged a working rotating Leslie speaker from an old organ. I figured out how it works and got it connected to my guitar amp. It works and sounds amazing.

The Leslie speaker has two speeds depending on which motor you apply AC to. Basically, I need a safe way to switch the AC between the two motors from a DC controlled switch. I’m thinking a foot switch that controls a 9v DC circuit that will switch a DPDT AC relay. Anyone have a suggestion on the AC components? What sort of relay should I check into?
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Muzzle flash
aficionado
Picture of flashguy
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I would have thought the Leslie would have already had a relay for that function.

flashguy




Texan by choice, not accident of birth
 
Posts: 27911 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: May 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
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A relay would work or a double pole double throw switch would work.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
A relay would work or a double pole double throw switch would work.
Well, I plan to activate it from my pedalboard. I’d also like to be able to stop it from rotating when not in use.

I’ll dig through some datasheets on mouser over the weekend but if anyone has experience with specific relays that could help narrow down my search.
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by flashguy:
I would have thought the Leslie would have already had a relay for that function.

flashguy
I think it was a simple toggle switch above the keyboard. The toggles wouldn’t help in my situation.
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
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I don’t technically need to use a DPDT. I only have to connect/disconnect one wire from each motor. I can use the other wires together to cut the power to both.

This is shaping up nicely.
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Krazeehorse
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How about a push button assembly from a multi-speed fan?


_____________________

Be careful what you tolerate. You are teaching people how to treat you.
 
Posts: 5758 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 27, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
Picture of Skins2881
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by mark123:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
A relay would work or a double pole double throw switch would work.
Well, I plan to activate it from my pedalboard. I’d also like to be able to stop it from rotating when not in use.

I’ll dig through some datasheets on mouser over the weekend but if anyone has experience with specific relays that could help narrow down my search.


I probably shouldn't have waded into this. You likely know way more about the practice of using pedals and related electronics than I do. I was only speaking from an electrical perspective.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21336 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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The cleanest easy way to do it would be to keep all the AC inside the Leslie cabinet and put two on-off relays in there, one for each motor.

Then on your pedalboard you have an on-off-on switch in a box (or for normal stomp box switches, an on-on to switch between motors and an on-off to turn rotation on and off). Pick break-before-make switches so you don’t power both motors at once, although realistically, doing so for a fraction of a second is unlikely to hurt anything.

You put TRS jacks (1/4” stereo jacks) in the box and the cab and connect them with a TRS cable.

Sleeve on the TRS is ground, Tip is motor 1 relay, Ring is motor 2 relay.

The TRS cable just carries 9v (or whatever relay control voltage) DC.

You could use any 3 conductor cable and connector if you didn’t want to run low power DC over the same cables and jacks as your audio but it isn’t uncommon to do it that way because it is always easy to find spares.

Be careful about relay selection, not all of them are rated to handle high start current applications like switching motors. Also make sure you don’t randomly choose a high current draw relay that will take too much juice for whatever cable/connector combo you use.

Mouser or Digikey will have all the necessary bits and bobs.

Obligatory don’t screw with 120VAC if you don’t know how to do it safely warning.

If you want to make it all techy and maybe make it really easy or maybe make it a monumental pain in the ass you could put some MIDI crap in the Leslie cab and make switching MIDI-controlled.
 
Posts: 6320 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Posts: 1076 | Location: Ohio | Registered: August 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
The cleanest easy way to do it would be to keep all the AC inside the Leslie cabinet and put two on-off relays in there, one for each motor.

Then on your pedalboard you have an on-off-on switch in a box (or for normal stomp box switches, an on-on to switch between motors and an on-off to turn rotation on and off). Pick break-before-make switches so you don’t power both motors at once, although realistically, doing so for a fraction of a second is unlikely to hurt anything.

You put TRS jacks (1/4” stereo jacks) in the box and the cab and connect them with a TRS cable.

Sleeve on the TRS is ground, Tip is motor 1 relay, Ring is motor 2 relay.

The TRS cable just carries 9v (or whatever relay control voltage) DC.

You could use any 3 conductor cable and connector if you didn’t want to run low power DC over the same cables and jacks as your audio but it isn’t uncommon to do it that way because it is always easy to find spares.

Be careful about relay selection, not all of them are rated to handle high start current applications like switching motors. Also make sure you don’t randomly choose a high current draw relay that will take too much juice for whatever cable/connector combo you use.

Mouser or Digikey will have all the necessary bits and bobs.

Obligatory don’t screw with 120VAC if you don’t know how to do it safely warning.

If you want to make it all techy and maybe make it really easy or maybe make it a monumental pain in the ass you could put some MIDI crap in the Leslie cab and make switching MIDI-controlled.
The slow motor starts up easily and doesn’t seem to draw much current but starting the fast motor from stop lights up the current limiter bulb which fades as the speaker gets up to speed. It’s really Lo-tech so MIDI seems to defeat the purpose. Big Grin
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
This - you don’t want 120 AC in your pedal. Be sure to buy break before make relays. Get ones with relays bases. But my Leslie has all this built in.

quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
The cleanest easy way to do it would be to keep all the AC inside the Leslie cabinet and put two on-off relays in there, one for each motor.

Then on your pedalboard you have an on-off-on switch in a box (or for normal stomp box switches, an on-on to switch between motors and an on-off to turn rotation on and off). Pick break-before-make switches so you don’t power both motors at once, although realistically, doing so for a fraction of a second is unlikely to hurt anything.

You put TRS jacks (1/4” stereo jacks) in the box and the cab and connect them with a TRS cable.

Sleeve on the TRS is ground, Tip is motor 1 relay, Ring is motor 2 relay.

The TRS cable just carries 9v (or whatever relay control voltage) DC.

You could use any 3 conductor cable and connector if you didn’t want to run low power DC over the same cables and jacks as your audio but it isn’t uncommon to do it that way because it is always easy to find spares.

Be careful about relay selection, not all of them are rated to handle high start current applications like switching motors. Also make sure you don’t randomly choose a high current draw relay that will take too much juice for whatever cable/connector combo you use.

Mouser or Digikey will have all the necessary bits and bobs.

Obligatory don’t screw with 120VAC if you don’t know how to do it safely warning.

If you want to make it all techy and maybe make it really easy or maybe make it a monumental pain in the ass you could put some MIDI crap in the Leslie cab and make switching MIDI-controlled.
 
Posts: 146 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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But if I had to I do it now, I would just buy a current model Leslie 3300, now owned by Suzuki. The fit and finish is awesome, the sound amazing, and it has a pedal jack that does what you want.
 
Posts: 146 | Registered: August 31, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Nosce te ipsum
Picture of Woodman
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quote:
Originally posted by flashguy:
I would have thought the Leslie would have already had a relay for that function.

flashguy
All of my Leslies had a pre-amp foot switch for that function. Only the pedal was plugged in, IIRC, and a thick multi-strand cable plugged from the pedal into the Leslie amp.

You want an old tube Leslie 122 with pedal and cable.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...e_speaker#Dual_speed

At one point I used the top component off of a solid state 900 with just the spinning horns; that was a nice effect as well.
 
Posts: 8759 | Registered: March 24, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
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I'd like to not spend $3200 so let's use the Leslie that I actually have. Smile

This Leslie is out of an old Hammond R100 series (solid state everything). I'm not using the preamp or power amp and I've cut all the circuitry out. It's just the cabinet and the 6 wires (2 slow motor wires, the 2 fast motor wires and the 2 speaker connections). I already know how to lay out the design, I'm just hoping someone has a part number for an On-On SPDT and an On-Off SPST relay. I'll dig into mouser over the weekend.

I'll draw up my plan later today and show you what I'm actually after.
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
safe & sound
Picture of a1abdj
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quote:
starting the fast motor from stop lights up the current limiter


Worth adding a capacitor?


________________________



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Posts: 15945 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Registered: September 22, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
quote:
starting the fast motor from stop lights up the current limiter


Worth adding a capacitor?
I was thinking about that but I’d have to remove it from the circuit once it’s up to speed. There’s no centrifugal switch on the spindle of these motors.
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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An integrated board like nshumway posted would be really easy, I can’t vouch for the quality of that specific unit, though. The relays aren’t from any of the big names I know but I’m not an expert on all the suppliers.
 
Posts: 6320 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Power is nothing
without control
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If you are just having trouble finding an appropriate relay, check the mouser or digikey websites. They will almost certainly have a relay with the specs you want in stock.

If you are looking for something with a logic level DC control circuit attached to the relay, there are some pre-packaged units that run off of logic level 5v circuits that are sold for ‘maker’ projects. Google the SparkFun beefcake relay control kit to see what I’m talking about. It is basically a SPDT relay with some additional bits to use a 5v logic signal to switch it. You could use the same circuit board to make it work with 9v, but you would need to replace all the other parts in the kit. Not sure what sort of pre-packaged stuff is out there for 9v DC though, as I am not an audio guy.

- Bret
 
Posts: 2479 | Location: OH | Registered: March 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
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Here is the diagram of what I'm planning:
 
Posts: 45674 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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