Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
Fighting the good fight |
My 2008 Honda Ridgeline has just over 100k miles, and is now due for a big maintenance milestone. Much of it is fairly straightforwards, including fluids (oil, transmission, transfer assembly) and spark plugs. The big item is the timing belt replacement. I'm already planning to have them do the water pump and serpentine belt at the same time, but what else should I have them replace while they're in there doing the timing belt? I've seen recommendations elsewhere to also replace the timing belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley. Is replacing those a good idea? Any other things in the timing belt assembly that I should replace now as well? What about the various tensioners and pulleys on the serpentine belt? Go ahead and replace now as well, or just wait? Anything else I should have them do? Thanks! | ||
|
Shorted to Atmosphere |
I would replace the idler and tensioner pulleys also. Cheap insurance in the grand scheme. | |||
|
delicately calloused |
Yep and I replace the thermostat at the same time. You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier | |||
|
Member |
Make sure absolutely sure they are using Honda driveline fluids!!!!!! No substitute fluids or any aftermarket top treats. The dealer can put any fluid in there he wants to, and likely is pushing some special deluxe cleaning capabilities concoction and a fluid that is even better than stock. No. Replace coolant. Honda. I formulate automotive lubricants. Use what Honda calls for. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
|
Never miss an opportunity to STFU |
Yes, like the guys above said, only Honda OEM parts and fluids. NO substitutes. I just had to do my sons Civic again because an aftermarket tensioner quit at 50k miles. Now I'm holding my breath. Because I used the same kind on my daughters Civic. I learned my lesson about not buying OEM. Never be more than one step away from your sword-Old Greek Wisdom | |||
|
His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
Anything that rotates with or is driven by the belt. The pulleys and water pump have been covered. Not mentioned yet are the accessory belts. IIRC there are two, one for the A/C and alternator, the other for the steering pump. Also check the condition of the front engine mount. | |||
|
Member |
Check seals. Crankshaft and such that get exposed when doing this job. The oil filter housing seal. I know on some yr model that's easier to access at this time. And all the above. " like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it." | |||
|
Just for the hell of it |
Agree. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
|
Alienator |
Hey, I have an 08 Ridgeline as well and I'm sitting at 99k miles right now. A standard 105k should include the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, ect. I would have them replace the seals while they are in there because they will probably leak before the next one. Make sure you use ONLY Honda fluids for the transmission, differential, ect. I changed all of mine around 75k miles. SIG556 Classic P220 Carry SAS Gen 2 SAO SP2022 9mm German Triple Serial P938 SAS P365 FDE P322 FDE Psalm 118:24 "This is the day which the Lord hath made; we will rejoice and be glad in it" | |||
|
His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
I think it has a hydraulic tensioner, similar to this. (The "grenade pin" is pulled after the belt is on and the tensioner installed, to let the piston release.) Replace it, too, if the parts kit doesn't come with it (some don't). | |||
|
Member |
This again and from what I was told and have followed, do not allow them to flush the transmission just follow the Honda drain and fill procedure | |||
|
Shaman |
Replace the water pump while it's apart He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. | |||
|
You're going to feel a little pressure... |
Timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, cam/crank/balance shaft seals, if applicable. Thermostat is more cheap insurance. Honda fluids. Luck, Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | |||
|
Member |
Are you doing the work yourself? Regarding the thermostat, my understanding is that it's on the opposite side of the motor and not involved in the timing belt replacement job. Save it for another day. I'd be surprised if you have leaks at the cam seals, but can't hurt to look. The crankshaft seal would be a PITA to get to, so can't hurt to replace regardless. The oil housing is the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (at least on my 99-04 Odyssey). Your motor is probably similar. Look around for Honda wholesalers. You should be able to buy the kit for around $200, or $400 from the dealer. It's made by Aisin. Aisin Timing Belt You can get a case of Honda ATF from a local dealer for about $80-90. Drain and refill is protocol. I did mine in about 2 hours. It's a slight PITA but worth it. P229 | |||
|
Member |
I have a 2007 Honda Pilot with 58k miles. Bought it from the original (80yo old lady) owner with 25k miles in 2014. I have been thinking about changing the timing belt / doing the 100k mile service since it is 10 years old. The vehicle has been flawless with zero issues and I want to keep it that way. Smart move to replace now or would you guys hold off longer? Thanks | |||
|
Fighting the good fight |
Nope. I used to do my own oil changes, but now pony up the ~$30 for someone else to do it. (It's worth it just to skip the hassle.) I do basic maintenance, like checking/topping off fluids and replacing my own air filters, bulbs, wipers, etc. Beyond that, I pay someone who knows what they're doing for anything more complicated. After talking with and getting quotes from all three of the local Honda dealerships and the local independant garage that specializes in only Honda/Acura, I'm getting the following at one of the dealerships: -Oil Change -Tire Rotation -Replace Transmission Fluid -Replace Front Brake Pads/Resurface Rotors -Replace Transfer Case Fluid -Replace Timing Belt and Tensioner -Replace Serpentine Belt -Replace Water Pump, Coolant, and Seals -Replace Crank and Cam Seals -Replace Spark Plugs -Adjust Valve Clearance -Overall Inspection For Any Other Issues (CV/driveshaft boots, steering gear, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, suspension, etc.) All genuine Honda parts and fluids. All for ~$2100 total (parts, labor, shop fees, and tax) with a free loaner car for the day. | |||
|
Shorted to Atmosphere |
If the water pump is being replaced, why drop the coolant twice? | |||
|
Member |
Correct. However thermostats aren't nearly as critical as the pump itself. And how often do they fail? As to OP, $2100 seems pricey but not obscene. I'd imagine $750 for timing belt, $250 for crank and cam seals, $250 for rotors, $250 for ATF flush, plugs $150. What else? Yikes. P229 | |||
|
Fighting the good fight |
$40 oil and tire rotation $100 transmission fluid $220 front brakes $100 transfer case fluid $670 timing belt, tensioner, and serpentine belt $420 water pump, coolant, and crank/cam seals $550 spark plugs and valve adjustment Free overall inspection $2100 total, which was $200-$400 cheaper than the other dealerships/garages. | |||
|
Member |
except for spark plug and valve adjustment all seems fair for a dealer/local shop. spark plugs are super easy on this engine and don't require any manifold removal. and valves usually don't need adjustment. Honda does recommend checking but I haven't seen many that truly need adjustment. " like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it." | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |