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quote:
Originally posted by straightshooter01:

There is your answer. You are already in the Dewalt system. You are not a professional your needs will be served just fine by the Dewalt offerings. Get a 3/8 wrench to start and if you run into a major job (unlikely) get a 1/2 later. All use the same batteries.


That's what I did, bought one that matched the batteries I already have. I bought a 1/2 drive though because I already own 1/2 drive impact sockets and extensions, plus I'm looking at axle nuts.
 
Posts: 14352 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of mark60
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Impact wrench for me is more about removal than installation so mine's a 1/2" Milwaukee high torque. I think it's 1500lbft of removal torque. I usually use a torque wrench for installation after using the impact to spin nuts on.
 
Posts: 3974 | Location: Sunshine State | Registered: July 01, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Right now I’m working on a 2013 Gravely mower. It’s mid grade, got it from a friend, $500, so far minor issues. I’m also somewhat old school with tools. I was having fits taking the blades off. I was replacing one spindle then sharpening the 3 blades.

My breaker bar with a 3’ cheater pipe wasn’t enough. I ended up buying a Milwaukee 1/2” impact, $350 Home Depot, one battery. It was night & day difference removing the blades.

I’ll also use it for lug nuts & other things. It was still totally worth it just for the mower blades.
 
Posts: 7386 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Mower blade bolts tighten the same direction as the torque applied by the drive.

They are affected by the operating torque and get "tighter" over time.

I use heat, Kroil, and impact to remove them.
Just be mindful of the spindle's properties so you do not damage bearing seals from the heat.

(I have a Gravely 52" deck. BTDT)




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Posts: 46415 | Location: Box 1663 Santa Fe, New Mexico | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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After I sharpened the blades I put them back on with my hand tools. I wanted to be sure of the torque since the impact was new to me.
 
Posts: 7386 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I keep a 1/2” in each of my 4Runners to take off lugs and to lower my spare tire. Home Depot has their Rigid brand on sale multiple times throughout the year.

I bought a Milwaukee several years ago when I could not get the corroded axle nuts off my ATV. At the time it was their high torque version, around 1400 foot pounds if i recall correctly. That and some heat solved my issue. I would guess I have about a half dozen different battery powered impact tools of varying torque for different uses. Most are 1/2 but I have some smaller ones that are 3/8 that I use in lower torque applications.
 
Posts: 5062 | Location: Friendswood Texas | Registered: August 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have an 18 V Makita 3/8” that I use for most projects. It’s almost 20 years old. It’s rated at just over 100 ft lbs. If it gave up the ghost I’d replace it with a new Makita 3/8”. I’d rather have that to do the hundreds of chores I want it to, as opposed to a much heavier 1/2” torque monster that I don’t feel like dragging around.

For the few times I require that kind of torque, I’ll use leverage. That 3/8 Makita is a work horse that has turned thousands of screws and nuts. I’d never give that up so I could possibly back off the four remaining axle nuts that my garage might ever see.
 
Posts: 2691 | Location: Illinois  | Registered: July 14, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?
 
Posts: 14352 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?


Williams, USA made, McMaster Carr sells them, as well other places, big bucks, for constant use.
As far as occasional use, prolly doesn't matter much as long as the selling store warranty is good.
 
Posts: 1859 | Location: Willcox, AZ | Registered: September 24, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by rizzle:
quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?


Williams, USA made, McMaster Carr sells them, as well other places, big bucks, for constant use.
As far as occasional use, prolly doesn't matter much as long as the selling store warranty is good.

For occasional use the ones off Spamazon work well enough and I have yet to break one. If I do they are cheap enough to replace.
 
Posts: 5062 | Location: Friendswood Texas | Registered: August 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by bigwagon:
I prefer a 1/4 drive for most routine auto work because it's lighter and more compact. I have adapters to take any size socket, but if I need big torque, I use my air gun. I used 1/2 inch cordless impacts years ago for lug nuts when I was racing cars, but I haven't needed one in a long time. The air gun works for almost everything I need a big impact for.

If you already have any cordless tools, choose an impact that takes the same batteries.


This! I'd rather have a 1/4" for it's compactiveness and lightweight for most things, and 1/2" when you really need ooomph
 
Posts: 21735 | Registered: June 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Sailor1911:
quote:
Originally posted by wrightd:
To the OP: to help you tease it out we need to know what types of things you're working on. The range YOU need for "routine automotive applications", could mean anything from a 1/4 to 3/8 inch impact drivers or wrenches, up to 1/2 inch drive wrenches. But it depends on what you're working on. Is all your stuff no larger than a light duty full size truck (F15), or more along the lines of small to mid size imports, like toyota and honda sedans ? In that case you'd want a 3/8 impact for everything including wheel lug nuts, or if you're doing tons of work under the hood of an older vehicle, you'd want a 3/8 impact driver instead of a wrench, or even a 1/4 impact driver only for use around upper engine parts. If you're working on suspensions on full size SUVs or HD trucks, then you'd want a 1/2 impact wrench, and smaller less powerful units IF you're doing lots of work under the hood etc.

If you list all the stuff you want to do, we can advise better.

Sort of like guns. "I want a rifle what do you recomend ?" Same thing. 22 LR for squirrels or 375 H&H for large african plains game, 223 for action competition, or 50 BMG just for fun.

I already made this mistake. I have a powerful 1/2 impact wrench that is WAY more powerful than I need, for six vehicles including an F150. If I could do it again I'd get a powerful 3/8 impact wrench or a smaller 1/2 unit. My guess is you may be in this category.


I think you are correct. Primarily working on an 87 Corvette. Other vehicles include GMC Sierra PU and a Buick, mid size SUV. Boat Trailer wheels might justify the half inch, triple axle, tag along but that would likely be a rare occasion.

I have noticed over time battery impact wrenches and angle drivers get more powerful compared to their size. I imagine you would do well to get a mid-size unit of any major brand and you will do very good, up to and including removing lug nuts from your trailer. Last time I checked I noticed the max torque on the mid size units are higher than one might think. Another idea is to size your wrench for MOST of your uses, and when you run into some lug nuts on your trailer that exceed the ability of the wrench, go to harbor freight and get a 1/2 or 3/4 in breaker bar, put a pipe on it to break them, then finish the job of removing them with your impact wrench. Otherwise you may buy a large unit that's too large for most of your applications. I have a premium 25 inch 1/2 breaker bar (Proto) that I use for breaking stuck things that I don't want to accidentally damage with my big (oversized) 1/2 impact, and it works every time. Same idea for anything else like that, or bigger, use a 3/4 inch breaker bar. The reason I mention this is if you needed a 3/4 bar, that would be expensive for a tool truck brand, but not for occasional use if you picked one up a Harbor Freight. Just a thot.




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Posts: 9952 | Location: Nowhere the constitution is not honored | Registered: February 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For 10 years I've been using a $9.99 breaker bar from Harbor Freight. Works great for lugnuts on my truck, 5th wheel, boat trailers etc. With two jacks, a breaker bar and a torque wrench I can rotate the tires on my truck in 30 minutes. There's plenty of room for a breaker bar so gravity does most of the work loosening the nuts. An impact wrench might save a few minutes; I'll find out this week.

I bought an impact wrench for working in tight spaces where there isn't room to swing a breaker bar and I'm the one pulling on it at some awkward angle while trying not to smash my knuckles.
 
Posts: 14352 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
I'm the one pulling on it at some awkward angle while trying not to smash my knuckles.


Just remember, no job is finished until you draw blood. Smile
 
Posts: 3974 | Location: Sunshine State | Registered: July 01, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Favor battery compatibility above all for brand. When it comes to choosing a 3/8 square drive impact or a 1/4 driver I find the 1/4 driver far more universal and powerful enough for 3/8 bolts. Also buy a battery compatible 1/2 square drive for lug nuts and suspension work.


“That’s what.” - She
 
Posts: 585 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: June 06, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sourdough44
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?


I’m more of a casual user, yes I often go for made in the USA. With impact sockets I went with Quinn at Harbor Freight. On the lower end is Pittsburg, above is Icon.

https://www.harborfreight.com/...ets-socket-sets.html
 
Posts: 7386 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a small collection of Milwaukee Impact wrenches. Have the M12 mini that is rated for IIRC 140 ft.lbs. but won't actually deliver 90 ft.lbs. I have the extended right angle one that is supposed to loosen 220 ft.lbs. but it won't budge the lug nuts on my Fiesta ST which are hand torqued to 100 ft.lbs with the threads and contact surfaces greased every time. Have the Mid Torque model That is suposed to do 450 ft.lbs tighting and 600 ft.lbs nut busting and that won't budge the lug nuts. Then I have the Big one the 2767-20. Set that one on high and it has those lugnuts off in a snap. It claims tightening to 1000 ft.lbs and loosening to 1400 ft.lbs. but I suspect it's a bit over rated like most of what I have purchased.

My advice is you spend the money for a 1000 ft.lbs torque wrench. Because as I said my experience that all of them are over rated.

PS; the deal I got on the High Torque model was darned near theft. The store was closing that model out and had it listed for 145.00 dollars. Sometimes a blind squirrel does fine a nut.


I've stopped counting.
 
Posts: 5921 | Location: Michigan | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?

After quite a bit of research, I went with/use Grey Pneumatic Impact Hex Sockets & Accessories. I like their socket designs, and prefer their socket sets (and cases!) compared to the competition. I also prefer their socket markings as well. They are made in Taiwan and the quality is excellent! I've purchased all of mine from JB Tools, though they are also available from Amazon. Check them out...Trust me, you will NOT be disappointed! Cool

I also have Bit Sockets (Triple Square) from Tekton Tools and can highly recommend them if you have a need for those as well. Wink


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Posts: 10855 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: October 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by nhracecraft:
quote:
Originally posted by trapper189:
Hopefully not too much of a thread drift, but what brands of sockets?

After quite a bit of research, I went with/use Grey Pneumatic Impact Hex Sockets & Accessories. I like their socket designs, and prefer their socket sets (and cases!) compared to the competition. I also prefer their socket markings as well. They are made in Taiwan and the quality is excellent! I've purchased all of mine from JB Tools, though they are also available from Amazon. Check them out...Trust me, you will NOT be disappointed! Cool

I also have Bit Sockets (Triple Square) from Tekton Tools and can highly recommend them if you have a need for those as well. Wink



Great. when you finish, come over to Epping and get my dam mower blades off. I have a great mechanic but he install on using the power tools to install the blades.


Richard Scalzo
Epping, NH

http://www.bigeastakitarescue.net
 
Posts: 5962 | Location: Epping, NH | Registered: October 16, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If I may piggyback on the topic... regarding changing the sacrificial anode of a Smith hot water heater.

Will a Ryobi 18V impact wrench with 300 ft-lb of torque do the job? Or buy the 600 ft-lb tool? I own the battery.

Or something else?

EDIT: I got the Ryobi 375 ft-lb torque. The bolt head is a hex. The ratchet is a twelve 'star'. It is slipping, not gripping. Do I need a different ratchet?

Edit: hex, back to O'Reilly.

Edit: fuck me. The six point also slips.

Edit: I guess that either Jesus or Buddha likes me coz now it comes out with the 12" hand bar. Thank you sir!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: mr kablammo,


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Posts: 6181 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: September 14, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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