I would spend any amount if I didn’t have to see another vague thread title.

First what is the transmission doing, slipping? Second what code number is coming up? Without knowing the code it's hard to say what to do.

You may consider getting a JDM transmission from Japan. Then have local shop do the install. I got a JDM Honda engine a while back, very good price.

My rule of thumb is, when for two months running the car generates unplanned repair bills that are higher than car payments on a potential replacement would be, it's time to dump the old one.

Since the car is paid for I would fix it.

Fix it.

I'd spend that in a heartbeat if that was the only issue. It's not a question of the value of the car, it's a question of how much driving time does that $1500 get you vs what you would spend on something new. That $1500 could easily buy you another 10 years and that is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new car. It really depends on what else is wrong with it I guess.

That's my thinking and what I will probably do. To the best of my knowledge there is nothing else wrong with the car. Thanks to all for the replies.

quote:

Originally posted by Bulldog7972:
Thanks to all for the replies.

Well, apparently not all of them or you'd have taken some hints.

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:

quote:

Originally posted by Bulldog7972:
Thanks to all for the replies.

Well, apparently not all of them or you'd have taken some hints.

The hints are referring to this:

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...0601935/m/4860079934

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Before you do anything get a 2nd opinion from a transmission shop and not the dealer.

^^^This. I had a transmission shifting issue arise with my 2001 Ford F150 truck a few years ago. The dealer claimed the transmission had failed, so I was looking at a ~$3k bill to replace the tranny. I researched the issue on a couple Ford online forums and found a few similar cases which were ultimately resolved by replacing a failed shift solenoid. $14 and a couple hours on my back later, and the problem was resolved. I've put ~20k on the truck since that repair and the transmission is still shifting perfectly.

This is why the shop I worked at briefly would not do transmission fluid after 100k. Too high a risk of killing the transmission. It's still worth a second opinion.

It's a lot cheaper to repair than to replace, but if you weren't thinking of keeping the car long term after, weigh the difference between the cost of repair and the payments on a new car over the same time.

How does fresh fluid cause problems?

I'd fix it but look for an independent shop for cheaper. Or even a rebuild to be put in for less than $2K

quote:

Originally posted by Watergoat:
Back when I was a Mazda tech, we put in a lot of transmissions, especially in hot weather. Probably 70-80% had new fresh fluid. The detergent additives break loose all the little deposits of clutch plate lining, etc, and clog the shift valve, and often the filter. Loses pressure, burns up. The instant oil change places like to sell a "trans service", which often kills it with kindness.
If you change the unit, make damn sure they clean the oil cooler and lines with trans flush, a lot of the gunk settles in there.

Good advice^^, I would try a total flush and fluid change on the chance of the initial did dislodge particles. A second opinion is always a good idea. Do you know someone that knows someone who moonlights in the field of auto repair?

quote:

They want 1,500 dollars to repair it.

How many car payments will 1500 pay for?

Fix it. Did that to our 2004 Honda Pilot (different MX issues but similar bill & situation) and have zero regrets.

WRT transmission fluid changes, I never do them myself and let Honda do the whole flush and fill thing, not just the drain and refill which can cause issues.

I can’t answer your question but I recommend you add detail to your thread title. I’m surprised it hasn’t been locked yet.

https://sigforum.com/eve/forums...0601935/m/4860079934

If the car is driving normally, and the transmission is operating and shifting properly, no slipping, shuddering, etc, then it's most likely not an internal mechanical problem inside the transmission.

Then the problem is most likely a sensor or wiring issue.

If that's the case, I'd probably just drive it until the wheels fell off before I spent that kind of money on it.


If it's slipping, shuddering, grumbling and groaning and making noises, then I'd spend some money to fix it.

With the already mentioned caveat of second opinions, I'd absolutely fix it. It is not logical to look at the value of the vehicle. From an economic standpoint, the question is total cost of ownership for whatever period of time that is in question.

If you anticipate that you'll keep it just one more year, if $1500 is it, I highly doubt you could buy anything that would depreciate less than $1500 in one year. The same would be true if it were only worth $500.

To use an extreme example, if it were actually worthless-couldn't give it away-worth literally $0. You can spend $1500 and drive it another year. As an alternative, you get a great deal on a 4 year vehicle that has already taken a major depreciation hit-say you spend $10,000. If one year later your new vehicle is worth less than $8500, you are in a worse financial position than if you had paid the $1500 to repair yours.

To make a complete analysis, you should also look at gas mileage and cost of insurance as well. Gas mileage could be better on something newer, while insurance would likely be higher. Not likely a factor in this case.

From an economic standpoint only, it will almost always make more sense to keep repairing and driving the old vehicle. Forever. If the inconvenience of breaking down becomes too great, then that is a different matter.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Before you do anything get a 2nd opinion from a transmission shop and not the dealer.
I’d likely put that money into the car but am guessing you’ll be closer to 1k at an independent shop.
Sounds like you got a transmission FLUSH and not a fluid swap.

^^^ This. Get a 2nd opinion from a transmission shop!

Also, yes, it sounds like you probably got a transmission FLUSH and not a fluid drain/fill.
That can create problems because it can knock loose a lot of gunk.

The devil you know better than the devil you don't, especially if the first one is paid for! From the sound of things it's still a good car...I'd fix it. But I'd also shop around a bit and get a second opinion from some independent places that specialize in transmissions...you way come in well under the quoted $1500.

Vague thread title and vague thread question.

Did they tell you the actual code(s) set or were they able to set the MIL to shine for a quick buck?