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Like this: Single flare is not to be used on brake lines - too much pressure. Also when making brake lines, you will usually replace the entire section. They are almost always rusted for their entire length anyway. For the few that have some good (un-rusted) line left, and where you have room to work, it is permissible to use a union fitting, like this: Never a compression fitting. They can't take the pressure either. | |||
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Send me an email. I may still have a spare made in USA double flare set that is brand new but about 20 years old. I never needed it after buying a loaded rollaway box that came with another set. | |||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best |
E-mail sent. Thanks! | |||
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Member |
This is the key to a good flaring tool. Most of the tools that use one or two large wing nuts to clamp the tubing into the die are junk. The good tools use a much more secure method to clamp the tubing so it can't slip. I have one of the hydraulic Mastertool flaring tools that works well, but my go-to one for 37-degree AN flares is a Rol-Air from Aircraft Spruce. They are hideously expensive new, but I bought mine used about 20 years ago. https://www.aircraft-tool.com/...etectCookieSupport=1 Rigid also makes a good one that is much cheaper. It only comes set up for single-flaring, but you can get an adapter mandrel to convert it to 45-degree double-flares. | |||
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As the picture above shows/explains it, but it is also a stronger flare. As a normal flare can easily split. | |||
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