Hilti metal tracking on the floor. Screw metal tracking on the floor joists so that there plumb. Install studs in the tracking. Simple and fast.

Drilling and bolting takes too long. You could also glue the plate down with loctite. Cut the studs so they are tight to apply pressure.

SDS Hammer Drill and good bits and you'll be all set.

Hammer on for all solid and carbide core bits.

No hammer for dry diamond core bits.

Here's a 29" deep hole through brick, block and granite rock.
Its either a 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 diameter... had to core one of each size on this job.

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Morgan:
Hilti metal tracking on the floor. Screw metal tracking on the floor joists so that there plumb. Install studs in the tracking. Simple and fast.

Drilling and bolting takes too long.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not a contractor and I am retired, so of time I have plenty

Plus I got to buy a new power tool!

That's the second new power tool this project has netted me. A couple weeks ago I acquired an angle grinder, which has already seen duty in this project.

Watching Silva's project, it looks like I'll be needing a framing hammer, too. Bummer

More seriously...

The advantages of Silva's solution over traditional studs with bats of insulation are 2" Owens Corning extruded polystyrene FOAMULAR rigid insulation:

• has nearly the same R-Value as 3-1/2" fiberglass batts,
  
• will yield 100% coverage of the surface,
  
• and is moisture-, mold-, mildew- and rot-resistant.
  

By the time I add the 1x3 gridwork I'll have a cumulative R-Value that will exceed traditional 2x4" studs with 3-1/2" fiberglass bats--in the same wall depth.

I happened across that video entirely by accident, and am I glad I did!

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
SDS Hammer Drill and good bits and you'll be all set.

Hammer on for all solid and carbide core bits.

No hammer for dry diamond core bits.

Thanks for the pointer. I'll make a note of it.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Here's a 29" deep hole through brick, block and granite rock.
Its either a 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 diameter... had to core one of each size on this job.

Wow.

The plumber that put in the plumbing to feed the in-ground sprinkler system drilled a 3/4" hole through the wall, so I know it can be done with the right tools.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but...

I was in the same scenario as you and was going to do it the same way as you and then I priced the sheets of foam, plus my labor. I then called Retrofoam out of Montrose, MI and got a quote from them to come in and spray Icynene. I was very surprised that it was only a couple hundred more than the cost of the sheets of foam.

If you haven't already bought and started cutting the foam, you might want to look into them. I'm not sure of what your basement walls are like or whether it would work for you though.

We have a Pulte built home (don't get me started on them) and it was pre-cast panels. Retrofoam filled the cavities on the precast up with Icynene and also the rim joist spaces. I then framed the exterior with 2x4 laid flat and screwed to the "ridges" of the pre-cast panel.
I used sill foam behind the 2x4's wherever they contacted concrete.

Just a thought for you.

Also if you find yourself needing to use a hammer fired powder actuated nailer let me know as I bought one for my project and still have it plus extra charges and pins. I'm in Ypsi and would loan it to you if you find you want to try it. It didn't work on the pre-cast panels but worked on the floor for securing the interior walls.

Thanks for the suggestion and offer, UBO, but I think I'll be good with the existing plan.