I have an interconnected AC wired (battery backup) smoke detector that keeps chirping even though I replaced the battery earlier this year and just now.

It seems that these smoke detectors have a life after which they need to be replaced?

Do I really need to replace all smoke detectors (about 4-5)?

If so, any brand/model/feature recommendations? Seems like my model is no longer made -- brand bought by Kidde so I need to replace the mounting bracket and wiring harness (is this a big deal? Need an electrician? or what type of contractor?).

http://www.kidde.com/home-safe...erconnect_with_.aspx


If you are replacing AC hardwired Firex brand alarms manufactured prior to 2009, there is no current model that will fit the same wiring harness or mounting bracket. Replacing alarms will require first changing the mounting bracket, and then either changing the wiring harness, or for certain of these Firex models you can use the KA-F Adapter in order to avoid having to rewire to the new wiring harness. When you change one of these older alarms, you will need to replace ALL devices attached to the interconnect line for compatibility. Follow the below overview along with your new user guide (included).

Follow these steps to replace your old alarms:

Danger: electrical shock hazard! Before removing an installed alarm from its mounting bracket, turn off power at the main service panel by removing the appropriate fuse or switching appropriate circuit breaker to the OFF position. Consult the user guide for your new alarm*

Replace the mounting bracket on your ceiling with the new one (included with a Kidde alarm

Purchase and install a KA-F Quick Convert Adapter and attach your existing wiring harness to the Kidde alarm (follow user guide instructions)

When all alarms have been re-installed, re-apply power to the alarms and test to make sure they are working properly (consult your user guide throughout the process to verify operation

Good for ten years. Very easy to change, Red to red, black to black, white to white. Check to see if wiring has paint on it, if so clean off with wire brush, don't reuse the old wire nuts. My favorite brand of wire nuts are Ideal Twister the tan colored ones.

PS identify circuit and turn it off.

These are the most common ones used. You can also look at Photo ones vs the linked ionization ones. Make sure you get combo CO/SD unit if you have gas or a fireplace in the house. These get placed at the location outside of the bedrooms.

Thanks! Actually I have the FireX FADC. Is the one you pointed to (I4618) a direct replacement (just rebranded) for my current model?

If so, maybe I just need to buy those units and it's just an easy swap - no rewiring, no new harness, no new mounting brackets?

This is what I have:
Previous part #/model #: 120-1182, fadc, 120-538b, i5000

You should replace the plugs, this allows you to check for good connections and paint on wiring. Also the pins on the plugs have changed over the years, unlikely yours will match.

I read reviews and Q&A on Prime -- sounds like although it's basically the same model, I need to change the harness and mount still. Ugh.

If that's the case, maybe I'll get the ones with the Li batteries - no need to change batteries for 10 years? Any ideas if these are good to go? Or nice concept but poor implementation - just stick with the simple I4618 model?

Li battery model: http://www.kidde.com/home-safe...moke-alarms/i12010s/

Our volunteer Fire Dept came around a year or two ago and installed First Alert 10 year battery life alarms gratis in all neighborhood homes. My old ones that required a new 9v annually hit the trash bin.

Supposedly 7-ish years. I had to replace mine in prior house at about that time for the same reasons you cite.

That's when you notice how freaking many there are in your house too, at $30 a pop!!!

Thanks guys.

I'm trending toward just using the Kidde version of same model as I have (Kidde I4618; same one Skins linked to) as they've been basically trouble free to date and other Kidde (not originally Firex) models seem to have issues with false alarms.

So, likely off to HD to get units and wire nuts. Hope it'll be easy to figure out which breaker is used for the smoke detectors (assume one breaker for all -- hopefully not on different breakers).

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Thanks guys.

I'm trending toward just using the Kidde version of same model as I have (Kidde I4618; same one Skins linked to) as they've been basically trouble free to date and other Kidde (not originally Firex) models seem to have issues with false alarms.

So, likely off to HD to get units and wire nuts. Hope it'll be easy to figure out which breaker is used for the smoke detectors (assume one breaker for all -- hopefully not on different breakers).

Pick up one of These and wedge it against black wire in unit closest to electrical panel. Will beep to let you know when you've killed power, also wise to confirm with multi meter to confirm once identified.

I installed two of the 10 year lithium battery only (no wires) smoke detectors 3 years ago. One lasted about 2 years, and the other one lasted 2.5 years. JUNK!!

I replaced them with the old style hardwire units with 9V battery backup. The mounting plate, and wiring harness were replaced in less than 4 minutes. Dont sweat it, its a super easy job.

I checked the breaker box - I have a single breaker labeled "Smokies."

That's a good sign

Thanks guys. I replaced my first one with the I4618. Went pretty smooth and quick, only shocked myself once.

Actually, even with the breaker off, I was reading about 1V. So I was a little apprehensive. But slapped on some rubber gloves and went to town.

5 minutes later, the new detector was up and running.

I'll burn in the unit for a couple of weeks before I RnR the rest of the units.

Adding a few detectors to my newly finished basement. All interconnected throughout the house. I bought an interconnected 120 volt combo CO/smoke detector for the furnace room.

I thought that CO units were supposed to be located not more than 5 ft off the floor. But smoke detectors should be mounted on the ceiling. It's a Kiddie and the instructions state to mount on ceiling. I am a bit confused and don't want to waste to $50 on something that won't give me the CO protection I wanted. Thoughts?

N2 is 28, O2 is 32, CO is 28.

I think mounting high would be okay especially if air in the room is circulating. But not an expert.

quote:

Originally posted by ranger312:
Adding a few detectors to my newly finished basement. All interconnected throughout the house. I bought an interconnected 120 volt combo CO/smoke detector for the furnace room.

I thought that CO units were supposed to be located not more than 5 ft off the floor. But smoke detectors should be mounted on the ceiling. It's a Kiddie and the instructions state to mount on ceiling. I am a bit confused and don't want to waste to $50 on something that won't give me the CO protection I wanted. Thoughts?

Few thoughts:

1) Always follow manufactures instructions for installation. They hire people way smarter than you or me.

2) CO mixes pretty evenly with air so it's not likely to matter.

3) The thresholds for alerting are way lower than what will knock you out. So if it's 2PPM difference from chest height to ceiling height it's not likely to matter.