I had this issue on my Ford with the A.C.. Turned out that the clutch needed to have a shim removed so it would engage properly. Works great now. Worth a shot and it's free to do yourself.

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
I bought a can of refrigerant and a hose with the gauge that you dial in the outside temperature to determine proper pressure.
Everything I am reading says it needs to be recharged with the compressor running.

If the compressor won't engage you can either jump the terminals on the plug to get it to override the low pressure switch, or vacuum the system down so it will suck in enough refrigerant for it to start. Then you can get it to take more. Of course, if you jump the compressor you need to get the refrigerant in soon or you will kill the compressor.

Turn the ac switch on and put the fan on high, engine running.

Hook up your can of refrigerant as per the instructions and pull the trigger. The can has sufficient pressure to push it into the truck system. As soon as the pressure has risen to minimum pressure the compressor clutch will engage and the compressor will run. Then add until the gauge indicates full. You will see, and can feel, the accumulator get cold and form condensate. If you were nearby I'd do it for you, but it's actually simple to add refrigerant.

There are tons of YouTube videos you can watch.

Best wishes to you.

Watched a couple videos and seems easy enough. Just was curious as all of them mention the compressor needs to be running.
While getting familiar with the system and locations I noticed there is a pigtail plugged into the acuumulator but there is also just a pigtail hangining there.
Anyone got an idea what that may be??

That second plug doesn't go to anything on Silverados. It is for Tahoes and Suburbans that have rear A/C units.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
That second plug doesn't go to anything on Silverados. It is for Tahoes and Suburbans that have rear A/C units.

That was kind of what I figured. Just found it funny just hanging there and not tucked away somewhere.

Looks like I am out of luck. Appears to be a bad compressor. I recharged the system and the compressor cycles now. The only problem is the thing freaking screams like crazy when the compressor is not running. Sounds fine when running but will not run for very long.

Going to check with a couple shops on price. Not sure it is something I want to tackle. Looks like a giant pain. But parts alone look to be about $300 so I may have to give it a go.

I replaced compressor and condensor and dryer for about $200 on my Honda.
Bought a complete kit off E-Bay.
Works great.

Going to give it a go myself.
NAPA has the kit including compressor, accumulator, and oriface tube for about $200.
The compressor is held in by 4 bolts, 2 appear to be a gigantic pain to get to.
Figure I'll throw on a new A/C tensioner pulley while I am down there.
Need to find a shop to evacuate then recharge the system hopefully won't cost me too much for them to do that.

quote:

The compressor is held in by 4 bolts, 2 appear to be a gigantic pain to get to.

What I said a while back about taking out the inner fender also works for the compressor. Two bolts and the line are right there. Use a box ratchet to take out the lower ones, and do these first so the weight of the compressor isn't hanging on them while you try to unscrew them. The lower front bolt can't be taken all the way out because it hits the front differential bracket, so you have to leave it in, and put it in first before installing the new compressor. It will take some "finagling" to wiggle it out from between the frame and the lower radiator/heater hoses.

Thanks much!
I presume the fan needs to come out for space as well?

Is it safe to presume the system has evacuated itself over time if you pop the caps of the service ports and give them a little poke and nothing comes out of the high and low side with the motor off or does the motor need to be running?

Or do I still need to take it some where to be evacuated?

quote:

Originally posted by Black92LX:
Is it safe to presume the system has evacuated itself over time if you pop the caps of the service ports and give them a little poke and nothing comes out of the high and low side with the motor off or does the motor need to be running?

Or do I still need to take it some where to be evacuated?

If you push on the schrader and nothing comes out, its empty (just like a spray can).

He put in a new charge and it dis capeared... There goes the 0 zone.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:
He put in a new charge and it dis capeared... There goes the 0 zone.

I don't think it took the charge because the compressor would not cycle on for more than 2 seconds at a time and the can is still pretty full.
That is why I checked it before paying someone to evacuate an empty system.

Well the compressor will have to wait till next week. Rained my only day off without the boys so that is a no go.

Looks like LineX will be the route to go for the rust. $600 to do the rockers and body up to the modeling. Fella says they do it all the time on far worse than mine. He says he has trucks out there going on 10 years and the signs of the rust have not shown on the exterior.
Heck adding another 5 will be good by me since replacing the rockers will run me $3,000.

I realize it is just putting a baindaid on cancer but it will keep it from rusting through to the exterior and looking like crap.
Plus I have a phobia of rusty rockers when I was a kid I was trying to catch the neighbors cat as it ran underneath the neighbors rusted out Datsun sliced my hand and arms to bits and left bits of rust in my skin had to get it scraped out and a nice tetnis shot.

You need to have the system evacuated anytime it is opened. They vaccuum out all of the air, some humidity, etc. Also the vaccuum pump can tell you if you've got a leak sometimes.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
You need to have the system evacuated anytime it is opened. They vaccuum out all of the air, some humidity, etc. Also the vaccuum pump can tell you if you've got a leak sometimes.

I am just going to have the shop do the whole install. I took it
To see how much to evacuate and recharge the system. He said the Silverado compressors are notorious for imploding and sending metal bits through the system. Mine made a crazy racket when it would cycle so I am presuming that is the case with mine. He has a special machine that uses some cleaning oil to get the metal out. If the metal does not come out it can damage the new compressor. He'll be doing it for much cheaper than I expected it will be done right and fully warrantied for 3 years.
As much as I like to do as much of my own work there is a time when it is a no brained just to have the pro do it.

I did the same thing with my Dodge 2500. Looked into what was involved in replacing the compressor, fluid, etc., and just took it to the dealer (good shop with good prices relative to the area). My warranty is only a 2-year/unlimited mileage, but it's good for any Dodge dealership in the country. My thinking was, I've got the money to get it fixed right once - not to have somebody go behind and redo/undo anything I may have done wrong.

I enjoy reading the threads from Mars and SC where they tackle projects like this, and others even more complicated. If I lived close to them, or any of the other auto gurus on the forum, I'd ask if they would be willing to guide me through such projects with the confidence that things would get done correctly. Unfortunately I don't have that option where I'm currently located.

If it were not for the possibility of the metal shards to be in the system I would be giving it a go.