I decided to use a P320 upgrade kit that includes a bit stronger trigger spring. Problem is when I slide the trigger in the MUP and snap in the trigger to the trigger bar, the spring tension pushes the trigger out to the side and dislodges the trigger. The line-up of the spring looks OK to me, and I have shaved off a bit in the trigger pivot hole to straighten the trigger. What may be the issue?

I don't have the answer to your Trigger problem, but the Location field is definitely NOT the place for your email address, unless of course you intend for it to be visible to the entire internet, and are interested in being Spammed and/or Scammed as a result!

You should post your email address in the 'Display Email' field in you Profile. It will ONLY be visible to SIGforum members that are logged in to the forum. Also, don't forget to click 'Submit' at the bottom of the 'View/Edit Complete Profile' page to make the change.

Welcome to SIGforum!

quote:

Originally posted by lcsanders2:
I decided to use a P320 upgrade kit that includes a bit stronger trigger spring. Problem is when I slide the trigger in the MUP and snap in the trigger to the trigger bar, the spring tension pushes the trigger out to the side and dislodges the trigger. The line-up of the spring looks OK to me, and I have shaved off a bit in the trigger pivot hole to straighten the trigger. What may be the issue?

Welcome to the forum. I have a question for you, what is a "MUP"? and what part and how much did you "shaved off" the trigger pivot hole to make the "upgrade" parts to fit? Most if not all of these are drop-in, or plug-and play parts, you should not have to do any "gunsmithing" to your P320. Pictures would help to resolve the issues. Can you put back the original parts and function test the weapon?

Maybe you're experiencing what I experienced. I replaced the OEM trigger with a flat trigger from Sig. I could not put it back together according to youtube videos I was seeing. I finally took it to a gunsmith who charged me $20 to put it back together.

Except the reset became mushy. When he returned it to me, he said the reset spring doesn't look straight like the others he's seen and to return it to Sig for repair if it doesn't fire. I only gave him the FCU unit.

Anyways, I bought a reset spring upgrade from Armory Craft. In trying to do it myself, I finally figured it how. Depending on how the spring bar is connected to the trigger, is how you have to position the spring bar with the reset spring connected in order to snap the trigger and spring bar into place. I could not do as the YouTube video showed as my trigger has a "cowl" obstructing the bar if I first positioned the spring bar behind the sear housing as the video teaches. I had to hold the spring bar and the reset spring even with the point in order to be able to snap the trigger into place. I don't think you should have relieved the trigger pivot hole.

Here's a video that has the parts you need. You would install the reset spring like he does starting at the 2:45 mark. But instead of starting with the spring behind the sear housing, position it even with the sear housing while sliding the trigger into position and capturing the hole in the trigger bar end. When it's there, you can snap the trigger bar forward into the sear housing. You don't have to lift the trigger bar up and around the sear housing like he shows at the 5:50 mark. The difference I figured out, as I said, is that the trigger in the video doesn't have a "cowl" or shroud that houses the portion of the trigger bar. My flat trigger does and it prevents capturing the trigger bar hole with the trigger when the spring is behind the sear housing as the video shows.

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Welcome to the forum. I have a question for you, what is a "MUP"? [/QUOTE]

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"MUP"= 80% fcu

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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Greymann:
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"MUP"= 80% fcu

Ahhh... I got it. An aftermarket home build kit. My apology, in this case, I am withdrawing all of my comments, since they are not applying to the project. Good luck with your build.
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