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Any tips/tricks to get rid of serious lead & carbon fouling? Login/Join 
fugitive from reality
Picture of SgtGold
posted Hide Post
This is the stuff I'm currently using. It works quickly with no chemical odor.

https://sharpshootr.com/no-lead/


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'I'm pretty fly for a white guy'.

 
Posts: 6666 | Location: Newyorkistan | Registered: March 28, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
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Back in the 80’s, I used Outers electrochemical bore cleaner. Fantastic!!! Required a rod, batteries and chemicals. I am surprised that everyone didn’t get one. In a few hours the barrel would be pristine.
 
Posts: 47 | Location: Idaho | Registered: June 23, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
Picture of sigfreund
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quote:
Originally posted by Spudgun:
Fantastic!!!


Yes, they were. I haven’t used mine in a long time because they’re not really necessary for jacket fouling, but for lead: Impossible to equal.




“The fundamental cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.”
— Bertrand Russell
 
Posts: 42249 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A little update-
I soaked the barrel in AreoKroil overnight, then went at it with a new bore brush. I bought a new 12 pack of brushes when I got the kroil.
I dont know, 40-50 passes
Clean Patch.

The patch was grey.
Ok, it's coming out. Looked in the barrel, and you can still see chunks in the grooves. The lands are fine and flat, edges are crisp.

Worked on it again with the kroil and a brush for about 30 minutes.

Clean Patch
Still grey.

Hmmmm... got some things to do, then off to work, let it soak again.
12ish hours later, hit it a few times with a bore brush again, then a patch.
Still grey. Looked, there's still some chunks in the grooves.

What the?!?!? Hmmmm....

Worked on the barrel with a dry brush for about 15 minutes, then another clean patch.

BLACK.


DAMN THIS THING IS DIRTY!
And now my "stubborn" switch flipped. It's either me or the barrel, but one of us is going to win, and I wouldn't put your cash on the barrel! I'll scrub that dirty SOB until its a smooth bore BHP.

Some Choir Boy is on the list of things to get tomorrow!


_____________________________________________________________________

"When its time to shoot, shoot. Dont talk!"

“What the government is good at is collecting taxes, taking away your freedoms and killing people. It’s not good at much else.” —Author Tom Clancy
 
Posts: 6201 | Location: Attempting to keep the noise down around Midway Airport | Registered: February 14, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oriental Redneck
Picture of 12131
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Would have been nice to have pics of the bore before all the cleaning started. Then, the after pics.
 
Posts: 20033 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: September 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Freethinker
Picture of sigfreund
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For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.




“The fundamental cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.”
— Bertrand Russell
 
Posts: 42249 | Location: 10,150 Feet Above Sea Level in Colorado | Registered: April 04, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of huskerlrrp
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quote:
Originally posted by sigfreund:
For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.

I've had good luck with this method as well. I take a long glass container (like white asperagus), fill it with Hoppes #9 (newer chemistry). Then I take a piece of wire with a hook at the end and enough length at the other end where I can fish it out. I slide it through the barrel and drop in the glass container. After a night or two, I get my pliers and take it out, brush and patch. Clean as a whistle.


 
Posts: 1683 | Location: North Cackalacky | Registered: September 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 12131:
Would have been nice to have pics of the bore before all the cleaning started. Then, the after pics.



Not really, not only am I not that interesting, I'm not photogenic either.

Wink


I don't have a micro lense, which is about the only thing that might work.
I tried taking pictures with the iPhone, and none of them turned out..


_____________________________________________________________________

"When its time to shoot, shoot. Dont talk!"

“What the government is good at is collecting taxes, taking away your freedoms and killing people. It’s not good at much else.” —Author Tom Clancy
 
Posts: 6201 | Location: Attempting to keep the noise down around Midway Airport | Registered: February 14, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sigfreund:
For others interested who may be interested in the topic, when I use Hoppe’s for immersion cleaning (and it works better than Kroil by actual experiment), I leave the barrel soaking for at least three days if possible, and often significantly longer.



3 days?!?
Now ya tell me!!!!

The family and I are leaving for a few days, looks like it might be soaking for about 6 days or so in Kroil.


_____________________________________________________________________

"When its time to shoot, shoot. Dont talk!"

“What the government is good at is collecting taxes, taking away your freedoms and killing people. It’s not good at much else.” —Author Tom Clancy
 
Posts: 6201 | Location: Attempting to keep the noise down around Midway Airport | Registered: February 14, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Junior Member
posted Hide Post
M-Pro7 bore cleaner.Barrel will look like new with just one pass.hth
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Louisiana | Registered: July 26, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of cxm
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Let me share how I keep my HP (and other) barrels clean and rust free.

In a metal container (I say metal for good reason... a metal gallon paint can works perfectly... buy they for a couple of bucks at a paint store)) mix the following:

1 qt. Kerosene (deodorized is the best choice)

1.qt. Mineral Spirits

1 qt. Acetone

1 qt. Type 3 Automatic Transmission oil.

Keep tightly sealed when not in use. You may have to add more acetone as time passes because of rapid evaporation.

This stuff is a modernized version of the cleaner formula the late Gen. Julian Hatcher published around the time of WWI. Original ingredients no longer available such as sperm whale oil have had substituted products with similar characteristics readily available in today's market place...

Once I mix this stuff up, I pour it into one of the pans for changing motor oil you can buy at any auto parts store... it is not affected by the cleaner, which most plastic is...

You will see this called "Ed's Red' in some writing.

Anyway, I dis assemble the gun (or in your case just the barrel) and remove wood or rubber grips. I then submerge the gun and it's parts in a wire colander you can guy at any Target Store on the cheap. I let the parts soak a couple of hours and then clean carefully with an old toothbrush.

For bores, I cut copper gauze scouring pads into squares about the size of cleaning patches... I then wrap the copper gauze around a well worn bore brush. NOTE: Be certain you get copper scouring pads, steel and steel with brass coating are also on the market... and should be avoided.

Clean the bore with the brush wrapped in copper gauze flushing the barrel in the oil pan full of the solvent you made. Repeat several times.

Once you finish you can pour the solvent back into the paint can and seal tightly.

You will be amazed at how much lead, coopper, powder and carbon you will find in the bottom of the oil pan.

Once I'm ready to brush and wipe down the gun and parts I'm working on all I have to do is lift the wire basket out of the solvent. Once finished I let the gun drain on a pile of newspapers overnight. You will find you have not only cleaned your gun, but oiled it internally as well...

Another benefit: A gallon is pretty cheap to make...

FWIW

Chuck


Hoist on High the Bonny Blue Flag that Bears the Single Star!!!

Certified SIG Armorer
Certified Glock Armorer
 
Posts: 1321 | Location: Florida, CSA | Registered: September 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
A day late, and
a dollar short
Picture of Warhorse
posted Hide Post
Sweet's 7.62 bore cleaner is your friend when trying to clean lead/copper fouling. It's "good stuff Maynard".

https://www.brownells.com/gun-...00001-1404-5420.aspx


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Posts: 12624 | Location: Michigan | Registered: July 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
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1/2 part hydrogen peroxide 1/2 part white vinegar soak over night, melts lead, properly dispose of lead contaminated solvent.
 
Posts: 16 | Registered: August 07, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Austin228
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I have mostly used regular Hoppe's No. 9 with good results for most regular bore cleaning

Hoppe's Copper Solvent is even better, and I recommend it for serious work and it can dissolve the copper too.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-...4004-9807-25361.aspx

I also have used and keep Sweets 7.62 on hand, I feel like that stuff is even more toxic than Hoppe's though.

I also use a CorrosionX product called Bore cleaner.

https://www.corrosionx.com/collections/sporting-goods
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: Austin, TX | Registered: March 19, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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