SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Fixed vs. Plunge Router
Page 1 2 
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Fixed vs. Plunge Router Login/Join 
Go Vols!
Picture of Oz_Shadow
posted
First, I'll start out saying I do not do a lot of woodworking and do not plan to. The best tool is not what I want.

I'll probably be going with something from Harbor Freight but I'm not sure which I should get - a plunge router or a fixed one.

My primary use is when I decide to make some small project out of wood I would like the ability to make a nicely contoured or rounded edge on it instead of just a rough square cut.

I have a circular saw, a jigsaw, oscillating thing, a Dremel and a bunch of drills. If the wood project requires more than those woodworking tools plus this router, it will not be me doing it.

Thank you in advance.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Oz_Shadow,
 
Posts: 17886 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: February 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of sigcrazy7
posted Hide Post
I have a Porter Cable that is both. Normally it’s a fixed router. Set it in an adaptor, and it becomes a plunge router.



Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus
 
Posts: 8217 | Location: Utah | Registered: December 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of cne32507
posted Hide Post
Just a router; non plunge. The plunge feature makes the start easier when cutting a hole, such as a sink cut-out. A simple router table is useful for smaller pieces
 
Posts: 2520 | Location: High Sierra & Low Desert | Registered: February 03, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-...F3RrMEBtL&ref=plSrch

This is probably what sigcrazy has. I have one from 25 years ago and still works well. It is kind of "the standard" when it comes to accessories. It will do pretty much anything you can throw at it, I would not use it in a router table (one speed and underpowered for larger bits). But for what you described this is the answer. The plunge is good for controlled cuts that do not start or end at a board edge. If you dont want to spend this much the same router motor with a D-handle base is very good.
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-...MxvBbmqdL&ref=plSrch
 
Posts: 1040 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: August 16, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of bigdeal
posted Hide Post
If you're just doing edge finishing, then a fixed base router is the tool for the job. However, a plunge router is incredibly useful for a myriad of other jobs. Personally, I'd suggest you check Craigslist and/or Ebay and look for "Porter Cable 690 Router". Something like this example. These are workhouses and have been around forever. And if you opt for this router, you can return to Ebay and buy the plunge base if you ever need it.

I have five routers of varying sizes in my shop, and all but one of them were pre-owned. I'd much prefer a pre-owned Porter Cable router to a brand new Harbor Freight option.


-----------------------------
Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter
 
Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go Vols!
Picture of Oz_Shadow
posted Hide Post
Just curious - if I have something like a 1-1.5" hole saw I could replicate the plunge feature by using a starter hole?
 
Posts: 17886 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: February 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of maladat
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by bigdeal:
If you're just doing edge finishing, then a fixed base router is the tool for the job. However, a plunge router is incredibly useful for a myriad of other jobs. Personally, I'd suggest you check Craigslist and/or Ebay and look for "Porter Cable 690 Router". Something like this example. These are workhouses and have been around forever. And if you opt for this router, you can return to Ebay and buy the plunge base if you ever need it.

I have five routers of varying sizes in my shop, and all but one of them were pre-owned. I'd much prefer a pre-owned Porter Cable router to a brand new Harbor Freight option.


The Porter Cable 690 and the Bosch 1617 have been the standard for routers for something like 15 years.

I have a Bosch 1617 I use as a handheld router and a Porter Cable 690 motor in my router table and both have worked great for almost a decade.
 
Posts: 6319 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of bigdeal
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Just curious - if I have something like a 1-1.5" hole saw I could replicate the plunge feature by using a starter hole?
Not really.


-----------------------------
Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter
 
Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Just curious - if I have something like a 1-1.5" hole saw I could replicate the plunge feature by using a starter hole?


Not with a hole saw, but you could with a Forstner bit. Still, the plunge is the proper way to do it.
 
Posts: 8955 | Location: The Red part of Minnesota | Registered: October 06, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of bigdeal
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
I have a Bosch 1617 I use as a handheld router and a Porter Cable 690 motor in my router table and both have worked great for almost a decade.
You need to upgrade that router table. Razz I found one of these in a pawn shop for a great deal and swapped it into my router table a few years ago. The thing is a beast and never bogs on anything I throw at it. Makes raising panels a piece of cake.



-----------------------------
Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter
 
Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of maladat
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Just curious - if I have something like a 1-1.5" hole saw I could replicate the plunge feature by using a starter hole?


The place a plunge router is hardest to give up is things like routing stopped grooves (grooves that don't extend to the end of the workpiece).

Say you want a 1/4" wide groove 1/4" deep in the middle of a board.

With a plunge router, you clamp a fence to board, push the router up against the fence, plunge the router into the piece (you remembered to set the depth stop correctly before you started, right?), then slide it along the fence to make the groove.
 
Posts: 6319 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of maladat
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by bigdeal:
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
I have a Bosch 1617 I use as a handheld router and a Porter Cable 690 motor in my router table and both have worked great for almost a decade.
You need to upgrade that router table. Razz I found one of these in a pawn shop for a great deal and swapped it into my router table a few years ago. The thing is a beast and never bogs on anything I throw at it. Makes raising panels a piece of cake.

...


You got me wondering so I went back and looked - I actually have a PC 7518 motor in the router table, the 690's big brother. It's a 3-1/4 HP motor like your Hitachi.

Oops!
 
Posts: 6319 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Go Vols!
Picture of Oz_Shadow
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
quote:
Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Just curious - if I have something like a 1-1.5" hole saw I could replicate the plunge feature by using a starter hole?


The place a plunge router is hardest to give up is things like routing stopped grooves (grooves that don't extend to the end of the workpiece).

Say you want a 1/4" wide groove 1/4" deep in the middle of a board.

With a plunge router, you clamp a fence to board, push the router up against the fence, plunge the router into the piece (you remembered to set the depth stop correctly before you started, right?), then slide it along the fence to make the groove.


That's interesting. I know there are a lot of bits that do many things, but I'm really only familiar with the edge shaping.

My work space is my garage which has cars in it most of the time so options for tables and larger pieces of machinery are very limited.
 
Posts: 17886 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: February 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of 9mmnut
posted Hide Post
Router work requires a bit of skill. I have used both and they both have their place in the work shop. For what you describe I would purchase one of the small hand held routers from Harbor Freight. For doing the edges of projects that is all you need. Cheap and simple to use. Just insert bit and adjust depth using a piece of scrap material to obtain desired profile. Only one adjustment since most profile bits have a bearing. I use router item #62659 from Harbor Freight. Have done a lot of edge profiles with it and no problem.
 
Posts: 1195 | Location: Southern ,Mi. | Registered: October 17, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Been woodworking for 40 years. Router work off and on in that time. Have never missed the plunge router option. Have a simple, standard Bosch 1604. Got a second one at a flea market for $5. Newer than mine. Same model.

Excellent, simple machine.
 
Posts: 2132 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
posted Hide Post
Straight router here too, don't know that I have ever had the need to take the plunge . Eek
 
Posts: 22906 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
I have a Ridgid set.... motor, plunge base and regular base. Bit better than the HF, not quite as much as the Bosch. Suits my needs, handles half inch bits.


--
I always prefer reality when I can figure out what it is.

JALLEN 10/18/18
https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...610094844#7610094844
 
Posts: 2363 | Location: Roswell, GA | Registered: March 10, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Oh stewardess,
I speak jive.
Picture of 46and2
posted Hide Post
Get a fixed, make a table for it to sit upside down in, win!
 
Posts: 25613 | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Certified All Positions
Picture of arcwelder
posted Hide Post
I gave away my plunge router. I just start a regular one and tip it in. It's been years.


Arc.
______________________________
"Like a bitter weed, I'm a bad seed"- Johnny Cash
"I'm a loner, Dottie. A rebel." - Pee Wee Herman
Rode hard, put away wet. RIP JHM
"You're a junkyard dog." - Lupe Flores. RIP

 
Posts: 27000 | Location: On fire, off the shoulder of Orion | Registered: June 09, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
Picture of Captain Morgan
posted Hide Post
I have both and use both. One is in my router table.
Make sure you get one that accepts half inch bits. It is more stable and will cut better.
When using a router do the end grain first.

You could get a palm router if its a light rounded/shaped edge your looking for.



Let all Men know thee, but no man know thee thoroughly: Men freely ford that see the shallows.
Benjamin Franklin
 
Posts: 3865 | Location: Sparta, NJ USA | Registered: August 16, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2  
 

SIGforum.com    Main Page  Hop To Forum Categories  The Lounge    Fixed vs. Plunge Router

© SIGforum 2024