Here's an interesting one. A few pics were posted earlier but here's the whole kit. This was an estate buy which fell into pieces as soon as I removed the chin rest. A repair note from 1886 looks authentic and construction dates the violin to the 1850s but it may be 2-3 decades older. Suffered a near-total glue failure. Lots of work to put it back together, including an end block for the neck, which I made a dovetail - usually, the neck is a mortise joint. But it sure is strong. Near zero flex even with medium tension strings.

The neck angle was wrong wth my new block, making the strings 40mm at the bridge. So after the violin was playable it came halfway back apart.

The violin was rejected by an internationally-known performer (looking for the 'right' violin for a friend). But heck, I got it in front of her, along with four others. What a lesson in listening to tone.

But it did sell. Last weekend a young tenor with 12 years violin experience bought this old violin and a second newer 4/4 (maybe c.1920, beat up but with great tone). Saw jumper cables in his back seat and figured him the real deal, the struggling musician. Cut a major break, opened up some space in the cabinet, got a third fiddle out the door this weekend, and finally, a clear table to match my clear conscience. On to another project.

There was a little more finish work after these snaps were taken. The bridge and peg ends specifically. Wouldn't want anyone to think me a slacker. The final 1% gets especially noticed.

Spectacular!

Luthery fascinates me. Thanks for posting. Wonderful.

Wow!

I love All-Clad!

The violin repair is amazing, too.

Thanks, guys. I am amazed these old instruments actually sound good after such devastation. What often happens is that the instrument has to be played for a while for the tone to return. Not sure why, but the instrument does "open up". Humidity, but not too much, is our friend.

The All-Clad is in glueing pictures to document the use of fresh hide glue. The reason a violin may, or may not be repairable, is the way it can be taken apart and what glue is used.

This was my first official "neck reset", as my initial reconstruction with a new end block put the neck at a wrong angle. Made more difficult by the dovetail, the only one in Christendom, I was assured.

The violin which *finally* went out the door Saturday brought to light another way to change neck angle. If you remove the top and compress the upper bout, the angle increases. This raises the projected fingerboard height at the bridge. Players are fussy about all the angles and heights and such.

Always appreciate your interesting threads, Woodman! Fine work!

Incredible bit of work. You are to be commended for the highly skilled workmanship. Even more incredible is that once done the piece can make beautiful music. And your work restores antiques.

From a craftsman to a Master, Thank you

Love seeing posts like this. Please keep them coming!

I LOVE seeing these restoration projects!

quote:

A repair note from 1886 looks authentic

Question - do you add something similar when you do a repair / reconstruction?

quote:

Originally posted by RHINOWSO:

quote:

A repair note from 1886 looks authentic

Question - do you add something similar when you do a repair / reconstruction?

Some shops paste a label into the violin back visible through the f-hole with their name, location, and date.

Many times work is so routine no repair marks are left. Top-off repairs are routine.

In images mirecourt-27 and mirecourt-28 you see new cleats applied along the split top seam. First glued, then shaven thin. On the bottom two (towards the left on image m-28 is tiny writing, inked in 0.5mm tip pen. It would have been visible (but not easily readable) through the end pin hole. That was me. In a move towards humility I sanded the writing off and jotted name and date in a spot not visible unless the top is off.

Lately I've written name and date on the underside of a bridge. Mostly so I know I made it if the violin comes back. When replacing a saddle I'll sometimes put a mark I'll recognize on the wood which will not be noticed by the owner, same reason. This is the latest saddle I fit.