quote:

Originally posted by ador:
...can you provide me information of the Authorized RSC you used?

If I may be so bold as to answer for r0gue, the Dallas RSC is THE Rolex Service Center for the USA. While there are "authorized" service centers elsewhere (like the one in Seattle I worked at), the one in Dallas is a "factory" service center. The address is:

Rolex Building
2651 North Harwood
Dallas, TX 75201

The phone number is (214) 871-0500

Yeah, Dallas is the one I used. Mine has the GMT movement, so it was a little more. and I added the bezel disc. I would guess a Sub service would be around $750. It's kind of a lot. But if you keep the paperwork, it adds to the value of the watch on resale. At least in the short / mid-term. So why not?

Just my opinion, but if the Sub is running well, I'd probably go 10 years before having it serviced if it's keeping good time. I once went 13 years on my first Rolex, the Explorer II. It's the same cost when you get it serviced. Even if more parts are worn. So, why not? Also, I recommend avoid the refinishing personally. Although you save no money by forgoing. When they polish out all of the scratches, it takes on an intrinsically different feel. Softer corners, thinner lugs, flatter crown feature on the clasp. and if you have drilled lugs, they tear-drop.

BrianO and rogue, thanks for your response. My 7 year old sub is still keeping good time. I only use it occasionally. But it is on an automatic watch winder. I just want to make sure that I keep the Sub in excellent mechanical condition. I though I read somewhere before that it "might" need some TLC after certain period of time.

How about OMEGA? Who do you guys use for Official Service Center? My 13 year old Seamaster definitely needs service. I can't wear it anymore as it will not keep time and will stop even when I am wearing it. It probably is very dry inside.

I will take some pics of the Sub and Seamaster tomorrow and add it to this thread.

quote:

Originally posted by ador:...I read somewhere before that it "might" need some TLC after certain period of time.

The watch companies would like you to bring in your watches more often than is really needed. They want to keep them in peak condition (and also keep watchmakers employed), but if it's keeping good time I'd save my money.

quote:

Originally posted by ador:
How about OMEGA? Who do you guys use for Official Service Center? My 13 year old Seamaster definitely needs service. I can't wear it anymore as it will not keep time and will stop even when I am wearing it. It probably is very dry inside.
.

I would definitely get the Omega serviced immediately. I would also suggest that if you are very seldom wearing the Sub (once a month or so) that maybe you allow it to run out and rest rather than continuing the mechanism movement 24x7x365. If you wear it once a week or so, then yeah, the winder is probably best. Just my opinion.

I'm sure there is an Omega service center in Vegas.

The boutique definitely has access to it.

Like I mentioned earlier, I sent mine to an "authorized service center" and the watch maker/jeweler was incompetent and left a screw loose inside the movement.

Rogue, I wear the sub maybe once every 4-6 months. The rest of the time, it just stay inside the safe strapped to an automatic/intermittent watch winder. What is the preferred or suggested run time and rest time for auto watches? (Run x number of days, then restart and let it run for x number of days)?

Mars, I spoke to an Omega rep inside Omega Shop in Bellagio Hotel. I was told a full sevice for the Semaster will be around $1,250 (which is insane).

That is why I am asking who you folks used for sevice so I can avoid the ones that are incompetent. In one of the watch forum I visited, they have mentioned Omega Service Center that was highly recommended and another location to be avoided.

Only the most complicated Omegas cost $750, which is Omega's standard for a PO pro with chrono. You get new Omega 2 year warranty cards with the rebuild.

A regular date complication is $550 for a complete rebuild. The dealer lied to you and you should report it immediately to corporate.

https://www.omegawatches.com/e...f-a-complete-service

quote:

Originally posted by ador:
Rogue, I wear the sub maybe once every 4-6 months. The rest of the time, it just stay inside the safe

I would only wind and set that watch when I wear it. Why run it half a year for a single evening's wear. It'll last far longer resting static in between. That's my thoughts anyway.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: r0gue,

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:

quote:

Originally posted by ador:
Rogue, I wear the sub maybe once every 4-6 months. The rest of the time, it just stay inside the safe

I would only wind and set that watch when I wear it. Why run it half a year for a single evening's wear. It'll last far longer resting static in between. That's my thoughts anyway.

My views have evolved to this as well.

I like the hands on that!

Here's a little build-up I did just for fun.



I had a new 7S26 movement siting around from a prior build, so I bought the cheapest banged-up 007 I could find and some new components.

It arrived and was truly wabied heavily. I pulled it down, brushed the case to make it somewhat palatable and proceeded to put the watch together. I put the new movement in it and put it on the timegrapher to see where I stood.



Well! This is not good! Not even in the ballpark!. I pulled the movement and didn't find anything loose clattering around, so I put it on the microscope and the hairspring was pretty much screwed.



Look at the loop near the stamped "Seiko". How this happened I have no idea.

I pulled a balance complete from a scrapper Seiko movement and put in in. The movement ticked right off. Now regulated to +4-6 seconds per day.

Now I have to re-form the hairspring to try and salvage this balance. a task I am decidedly not good at doing. ARGH!

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor: ...the hairspring was pretty much screwed. ...Now I have to re-form the hairspring to try and salvage this balance.

That's actually not all that bad. There's a hump right above the screw in your micrograph that needs to be smoothed out, and then the curve adjusted to restore concentricity in the loops, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Of course that's easy for me to say; we spent two weeks in watchmaking school working on hairsprings as part of the precision timing quarter. (The hairspring exam was the only intermediate exam where I had the top score in my class. On two others I was second, and on two I was -- gulp -- 5th...out of eight.)

quote:

Originally posted by BrianO:

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor: ...the hairspring was pretty much screwed. ...Now I have to re-form the hairspring to try and salvage this balance.

That's actually not all that bad. There's a hump right above the screw in your micrograph that needs to be smoothed out, and then the curve adjusted to restore concentricity in the loops, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Of course that's easy for me to say; we spent two weeks in watchmaking school working on hairsprings as part of the precision timing quarter. (The hairspring exam was the only intermediate exam where I had the top score in my class. On two others I was second, and on two I was -- gulp -- 5th...out of eight.)

Hairspring work gives me palpitations. Any tips you may have, I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks,

RMD

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:Hairspring work gives me palpitations. Any tips you may have, I would greatly appreciate.

1) Work on a very clean, smooth, flat surface. A watchmaker's green mat on a workbench, table, or counter is best.

2) Use a good loupe or clip-on magnifier for glasses so you can get in close.

3) Hold the spring in place against the mat with one pair of tweezers, and push or pull the spring with another pair of tweezers. Small moves, just a little at a time, and examine the results before making another small move.

See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?...nue=25&v=idO5elKgFMA

Good luck.

P.S. The reason you don't pinch the spring with the second tweezer is to avoid introducing a twist in the spring. Rather than pinching/holding, you're just nudging.

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:
...Any tips you may have, I would greatly appreciate.

It just dawned on me that you have a microscope and chronoscope; you're clearly either a trained watchmaker or a VERY serious amateur. Apologies if my advice was simplistic.

quote:

Originally posted by BrianO:

quote:

Originally posted by rduckwor:
...Any tips you may have, I would greatly appreciate.

It just dawned on me that you have a microscope and chronoscope; you're clearly either a trained watchmaker or a VERY serious amateur. Apologies if my advice was simplistic.

No apologies necessary. I am an amateur, but always learning. Advice from those trained is always appreciated.

Thank you.

RMD

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rduckwor,

As our friends across the pond say, "Job Done!"



RMD

Just in from Bulgaria. It's huuuge: